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Removing O2 sensors

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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 02:19 AM
  #1  
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Default Removing O2 sensors

I've got LG headers that have been in for quite a while. I am trying to replace the sensors but I can't get them out, they refuse to budge. I purchased a special tool for removing them. It is a special socket with a slot on the side and you can use a breaker bar attached to its side. Still didn't help. Any ideas I might not be aware of?
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by striper
I've got LG headers that have been in for quite a while. I am trying to replace the sensors but I can't get them out, they refuse to budge. I purchased a special tool for removing them. It is a special socket with a slot on the side and you can use a breaker bar attached to its side. Still didn't help. Any ideas I might not be aware of?
Quick list and I always feel we are human in that sometimes the obvious escapes, as it does me many times.

1. Lefty loosey righty tighty. I have found myself while under the car I get turned around and get backwards and have to stop and think and refer to the old adage. Just a thought.
2. Hit it with liquid wrench or something similar.
2a. Try a small torch to heat up the sensor where it screws into the exhaust. I would use gloves to grip the wrench after that.
3. I think one time I had to use my foot as leverage against the wrench to break it loose.

I have removed mine at least ten times on both sides over the years and generally had no issues. I'm sure others will chime in and offer better suggestions then I. Best wishes
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by wvufan1965
Quick list and I always feel we are human in that sometimes the obvious escapes, as it does me many times.

1. Lefty loosey righty tighty. I have found myself while under the car I get turned around and get backwards and have to stop and think and refer to the old adage. Just a thought.
2. Hit it with liquid wrench or something similar.
2a. Try a small torch to heat up the sensor where it screws into the exhaust. I would use gloves to grip the wrench after that.
3. I think one time I had to use my foot as leverage against the wrench to break it loose.

I have removed mine at least ten times on both sides over the years and generally had no issues. I'm sure others will chime in and offer better suggestions then I. Best wishes






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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 08:49 AM
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If you use Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster remember to let it soak. Most spray it on and go right after it.

If I have something that's a bear to get off I'll usually spray it several times throughout the day and then let it sit overnight.

Good Luck!
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 08:52 AM
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I've always had my best luck with the closed end of a box end wrench on an O2. All those special tools and what not have a split in them usually and that split allows flex which causes you to not get all the torque you can on the O2 itself.
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by jptgs1
If you use Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster remember to let it soak. Most spray it on and go right after it.

If I have something that's a bear to get off I'll usually spray it several times throughout the day and then let it sit overnight.

Good Luck!
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 12:45 PM
  #7  
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Heat is your friend. I got spoiled working at the coal mines. Always had cutting torches available for just such times as this. Even a small propane torch will heat something just not as fast.

Heat up the bung where the O2 sensor screws into the header and give it a try.

Good luck with your repair
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 04:12 PM
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On stainless headers I'd probably avoid heat. Ymmv.

Stainless LOVES to seize up... It is uncanny how easy it is to take a stainless v-thread setup and seize it. I just did my own brand new headers and welded in a bung for a wideband. Threaded the cap in 1/2 way (about 2 turns) and pow, it stuck. This was with my fingers.

I needed my 1/2" drive impact wrench to impact it out, then bought the tap for $65 to repair the threads. Wonderful...

Definitely use anti-seize paste on them if you get an opportunity to remove the things.
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 05:18 PM
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If using a breaker bar use a pipe as a cheater to get some extra leverage
+1 on the kroil, it's great stuff
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 05:44 PM
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Well, here's the outcome of my situation. I had sprayed the sensors with a penetrant last night. The 02 tool doesn't work, it flexes because of the slot and was trying to round off sensor. Anyway, one more try with a more precise fitting open end wrench and some leg leverage and it suddenly came free. No heat was used. I finally was able to change both sensors. Fortunately with the headers I only have two. Took it out for a ride and it actually seemed to run a little better except now I have a problem I didn't have before. I got a check engine light. The codes are P0133 and P0153. What's causing this and how do I fix it? Do I have to reinstall my old sensors which happen to have 150,000 miles on them. They are the original sensors that came with the car.
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 05:46 PM
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BTW, thanks to all for tips and encouragement. It helped me to persevere in getting this done so I wouldn't have to subject my car to a dealer.
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by striper
Well, here's the outcome of my situation. I had sprayed the sensors with a penetrant last night. The 02 tool doesn't work, it flexes because of the slot and was trying to round off sensor. Anyway, one more try with a more precise fitting open end wrench and some leg leverage and it suddenly came free. No heat was used. I finally was able to change both sensors. Fortunately with the headers I only have two. Took it out for a ride and it actually seemed to run a little better except now I have a problem I didn't have before. I got a check engine light. The codes are P0133 and P0153. What's causing this and how do I fix it? Do I have to reinstall my old sensors which happen to have 150,000 miles on them. They are the original sensors that came with the car.
Try these links for info

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-headers.html

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...and-p0153.html

seems like the solution is you Need someone with LS1edit or HP tuner to disable PO133 and PO153 sensor codes. See what others here say,

Last edited by wvufan1965; Sep 5, 2016 at 07:22 PM.
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by bow tie guy
aerokroil frees stuck 02 sensors overnight

PB blaster not so much
Kroil is the cats meow.........thank god we stock it in work !

OP, another thing you might want to try, after hitting it with penetrating oil and heat...try tightening it first. Sometimes you can get it to tighten and it will break free, then try loosening it.worth a shot

Last edited by SG Lou; Sep 5, 2016 at 07:28 PM.
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 11:11 PM
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P0133 HO2S Slow Response Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0153 HO2S Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1

seems like the solution is you Need someone with LS1edit or HP tuner to disable PO133 and PO153 sensor codes. See what others here say,
These are the primary O2s so you don't want to program these out. Slow response is not one I've seen before. I don't know what the fix is for that.
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 11:34 PM
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Op, did you get something on them like lube or grease that contaminated them and is making them not signal changes?

A quick google search turns up that they might be dirty.
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 11:59 PM
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I just put in brand new O2's. I never had any codes like this before but I changed them because they were quite old and my gas mileage was starting to decrease significantly. So I put in new sensors, take it for a ride and in a short ride I suddenly have a check engine light.
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Old Sep 6, 2016 | 02:23 AM
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As always, clear the codes and see if they come back. System might just be re-learning or something.
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To Removing O2 sensors

Old Sep 6, 2016 | 06:58 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by jptgs1
If you use Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster remember to let it soak. Most spray it on and go right after it.

If I have something that's a bear to get off I'll usually spray it several times throughout the day and then let it sit overnight.

Good Luck!
Overnight soak works for me. I've also used WD-40 to break loose old bolts etc.
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Old Sep 6, 2016 | 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by K-Spaz
P0133 HO2S Slow Response Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0153 HO2S Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1



These are the primary O2s so you don't want to program these out. Slow response is not one I've seen before. I don't know what the fix is for that.
If you would have read the posts shares, they simply state turning off the error reporting. Many including myself have had this issue and resolved it via the methods spelled out in previous Corvette Forum posts from 2005
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Old Sep 6, 2016 | 08:09 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by wvufan1965
Quick list and I always feel we are human in that sometimes the obvious escapes, as it does me many times.

1. Lefty loosey righty tighty. I have found myself while under the car I get turned around and get backwards and have to stop and think and refer to the old adage. Just a thought.
2. Hit it with liquid wrench or something similar.
2a. Try a small torch to heat up the sensor where it screws into the exhaust. I would use gloves to grip the wrench after that.
3. I think one time I had to use my foot as leverage against the wrench to break it loose.

I have removed mine at least ten times on both sides over the years and generally had no issues. I'm sure others will chime in and offer better suggestions then I. Best wishes
If you are going to use some heat do not heat the sensor. You need to heat the header when the sensor is screwed into. The heat is used to expand the metal. If you heat the sensor it will expand making it even more difficult to remove. Heating the header where it is screwed into will expand that section making it easier to remover the sensor.
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