[Z06] Stock Trans and diff capabilities?
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Instructor
Joined: Jul 2016
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From: Fort polk Louisiana
Stock Trans and diff capabilities?
I decided to drop the cool sounding maggie and go v3 Ysi and get big boy power.
I have read guys put 6-700 on the stock Trans and diff with no issues is this just folks getting lucky or are they really that sturdy? Both have 130k on them. Except the final drive that has a 3.42 I put in maybe 1k miles ago
I'm running a stage 2 ls7 monster clutch so not worried too much about that. And not worried about the motor.
I have read guys put 6-700 on the stock Trans and diff with no issues is this just folks getting lucky or are they really that sturdy? Both have 130k on them. Except the final drive that has a 3.42 I put in maybe 1k miles ago
I'm running a stage 2 ls7 monster clutch so not worried too much about that. And not worried about the motor.
Race Director
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From: Pasco WA
IMO, the diff is the weak link, of the two, but there are other factors. How you intend to drive your car is the biggest factor. If, like myself, just like having some extra power because it's fun, and I can afford it is one issue. Wanting to go racing, and planning on beating on the car with traction tires, hard launches, etc. is another. The differential has the most weak areas on a modified car, the case itself being the one that I twisted into scrap. You need to be aware of the driveshaft connectors also, with that many miles.
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: Fort polk Louisiana
It's just a driver. I go to Mexico a good bit but that's all rolls.
And I'll hit the strip MAYBE 1 time in a two month period.
When it's all said and done It will have MT streets out back so sticky but not slick sticky.
Shooting for 6-620 I'm only using a boost a pump atm so that's my real limit.
And I'll hit the strip MAYBE 1 time in a two month period.
When it's all said and done It will have MT streets out back so sticky but not slick sticky.
Shooting for 6-620 I'm only using a boost a pump atm so that's my real limit.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Iowa
My ZO6 is at 638rwhp and the oem trans, diff, and axles are holding up just fine so far after about 20k miles of being boosted. It went through 2 years of auto cross, dragstrip occasionally since I bought the car in 2009, some road racing, and 1/2 mile racing events all with R compound tires. Plus some street abuse.
Like zeevette mentioned, it depends on how you drive your car. I understand that I could lose either the diff or trans at any point if I do an all out launch or bang shift the crap out of it. I don't necessarily drive it super easy, but I'm not violent with it either. At the end of the day, I don't care if I give up several 10ths at the strip from a slower shift or easier launch if it means I can drive the car home.
If you're the same way, I'm sure it'll last quite some time.
Like zeevette mentioned, it depends on how you drive your car. I understand that I could lose either the diff or trans at any point if I do an all out launch or bang shift the crap out of it. I don't necessarily drive it super easy, but I'm not violent with it either. At the end of the day, I don't care if I give up several 10ths at the strip from a slower shift or easier launch if it means I can drive the car home.
If you're the same way, I'm sure it'll last quite some time.
Last edited by Quickshift_C5; Sep 26, 2016 at 04:34 PM.
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From: PA
I would highly recommend a trans/diff brace to help minimize the chance of breakage. For a street car I'm sure the stock trans/diff can survive a long time. Road racing isn't that bad on them either. It's the 1/4 mile that will do big damage to these cars with hard launches on sticky tires. Guys have broken these cars in stock condition at the 1/4, a hard launch and bad wheel hop can cause a number of problems: Can crack the housings where the trans/diff are attached, you can break the trans output shaft, break a diff half shaft or break the rear housing. Lots can go wrong, but most of the problems are going to happen in the 1/4. I agree with Quickshift, I've run mine in the 1/4 but I don't push it to the extreme like I have with other cars. Launch at 3k or so, nothing crazy,get out of it immediately if you get wheel hop and don't hammer the trans shifting and odds are it will be fine.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Pasco WA
Also remember, once you're in the realm of power adders, even a hard shift can break something. My original diff was blown on a hard shift to third. Now I have a ECS, and a Pfadt brace. And , oh yeah, a built diff.
Last edited by zeevette; Sep 26, 2016 at 06:39 PM.
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pfadt makes a good diff mount, I used to run one of those before I swapped to a tr6060 setup... I don't like their company so much anymore after how they treated people when they went under though, hoosier also makes one just like it... I would also recommend good motor mounts, again pfadt has some good ones but they are now being copied by fabberge and a few other companies... high quality fluid is also a must in my opinion, I have ran amsoil torque drive and severe gear 70/90 since owning the car... with your driving style I think you should be good for awhile, just keep the drivetrain from wheelhopping/shaking and avoid hard launches on sticky tires... mine lasted with a little over 700 to the ground and was still in great shape when I took it out for the 6060 swap
Last edited by StingrayRebel; Sep 26, 2016 at 07:29 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2016
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From: Fort polk Louisiana
I put redline HD in it when I put the final drive in. I had some sort of super nice poly motor mounts in from the previous owner..
After I get tires my invos are not going to cut it now. I'll look into a brace thnx for that !
After I get tires my invos are not going to cut it now. I'll look into a brace thnx for that !
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yeah invos in the rear aren't going to cut it if you want to have any fun at all, if you want to brag about breaking the tires loose and spinning at 80+mph then they will be ok
Thread Starter
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From: Fort polk Louisiana
Le Mans Master
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From: Somewhere in the Mid 9's TX
It's just a driver. I go to Mexico a good bit but that's all rolls.
And I'll hit the strip MAYBE 1 time in a two month period.
When it's all said and done It will have MT streets out back so sticky but not slick sticky.
Shooting for 6-620 I'm only using a boost a pump atm so that's my real limit.
And I'll hit the strip MAYBE 1 time in a two month period.
When it's all said and done It will have MT streets out back so sticky but not slick sticky.
Shooting for 6-620 I'm only using a boost a pump atm so that's my real limit.
I'd recommend against doing any hard launches with that puck style clutch, stock rear end over 600rwhp. You need a clutch that will slip a bit.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2016
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From: Fort polk Louisiana
Do not go with a YSI then. The YSI loves to be spun hard. You'll see most guys spinning them to the max or 10% over like myself. Gear ratio is different vs the SI/TI blowers. You will be faster at 600-650rwhp running a TI/Novi 1500 with a 10% overdrive balancer and a 3.25-3.6 blower pulley. It will hit much harder.
I'd recommend against doing any hard launches with that puck style clutch, stock rear end over 600rwhp. You need a clutch that will slip a bit.
I'd recommend against doing any hard launches with that puck style clutch, stock rear end over 600rwhp. You need a clutch that will slip a bit.
but it is 100% not going to get switched out) And I'll be running a 3.2 on the blower. Again I'm on 42lb Injectors and a boost a pump so I can't go stupid high anytime soon.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Iowa
Crap I did mean SI. My phone corrected to the Y from other posts lol. I have a v3 si already... I'm running a powerbond 6.9 underdrive on the crank (yes I know but it is 100% not going to get switched out)
And I'll be running a 3.2 on the blower. Again I'm on 42lb Injectors and a boost a pump so I can't go stupid high anytime soon.
but it is 100% not going to get switched out) And I'll be running a 3.2 on the blower. Again I'm on 42lb Injectors and a boost a pump so I can't go stupid high anytime soon.
What's the smallest pulley we can safely use on the little Si?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2016
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From: Fort polk Louisiana
Can the V3 Si handle a 3.2 pulley? I'm on a 3.4 pulley now with 638rwhp, cam, full exhaust and it's reading as 12psi. I figured I'm overdriving the thing already depending where I shift (usually 6,500...but it'll run to 7,000 now with my AES Forged LS6.)
What's the smallest pulley we can safely use on the little Si?
What's the smallest pulley we can safely use on the little Si?
The underdrive I have on the crank will mitigate the small pulley..
It came off a 25% underdrive Fox body ls build and made 8-9 psi that way. 8psi and meth will push out a hell of alot more power than my non intercooled maggie on 5psi
Race Director
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From: Pasco WA
I only get 8.5 lbs of boost with my setup, V3si and 3.8 blower pulley, and stock size dampener. I don't feel ANY lag, just a hard pull all the way to redline. (only in the higher gears, 'cause I too have Invos. 
)
)
Pro
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From: MD
I broke an output shaft in the diff first(replaced with C6Z stub shafts), then i spit the pinion out the back of the case. Just recently I blew 2nd gear completely (replaced with RPM stage V trans). All on 18" drag radials which seemed to be the problem because since i switched to a 17" bias ply ET street, its been pretty solid
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Iowa
I broke an output shaft in the diff first(replaced with C6Z stub shafts), then i spit the pinion out the back of the case. Just recently I blew 2nd gear completely (replaced with RPM stage V trans). All on 18" drag radials which seemed to be the problem because since i switched to a 17" bias ply ET street, its been pretty solid