Anybody else have a solid feeling factory shifter?
You can tighten up the stock shifter by taking it completely apart, drilling out the rivets holding the top plate on and using emory on a surface plate to take a little metal off. When you rebuild (3/16 bolts/nuts to replace the rivets), you will have eliminated any "slop" in the ball and socket mechanism.
The stock shifter relies totally on the transmission itself to provide positioning, which is why there is some cross gate "slop" in the lower gears. Some aftermarket shifters allow you to artificially tighten things up by restricting cross gate movement, but to me that's purely cosmetic.
After trying a few different approaches, I went with a tightened up, cut down and solid mounted factory shifter. And a decent shift ****. Works fine, and the throws are shorter, but still light and easy - two fingers are all you need.
One surprising thing I discovered - changing the gearbox oil makes a significant difference, especially if you have a few miles on. I did mine at about 66k and I had been experiencing balking, especially into 2nd, and it just went away after the change. Old fashioned non synthetic DEX III from Wallies, nothing fancy at all.
I didnt trade my C5 when I bought my C7
Switching between the two...the 5 became problematic in that in odd number gears, I would grab for the stick and miss, because the **** and stick are farther forward and higher than on the 7.
The C6/7 shifter rod is shorter and angled; end result you dont have to reach up or as far forward to get 1-3-5.
End result was installing a late 2008 C6 shifter in my C5.
So much nicer. No, it didnt reduce notchiness, etc, but the simple ergonomic benefit is definitely worth it, IMHO.
Last edited by aj98; Jan 19, 2017 at 07:40 PM.
You can tighten up the stock shifter by taking it completely apart, drilling out the rivets holding the top plate on and using emory on a surface plate to take a little metal off. When you rebuild (3/16 bolts/nuts to replace the rivets), you will have eliminated any "slop" in the ball and socket mechanism.
One surprising thing I discovered - changing the gearbox oil makes a significant difference, especially if you have a few miles on. I did mine at about 66k and I had been experiencing balking, especially into 2nd, and it just went away after the change. Old fashioned non synthetic DEX III from Wallies, nothing fancy at all.
Thanks!
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I didnt trade my C5 when I bought my C7
Switching between the two...the 5 became problematic in that in odd number gears, I would grab for the stick and miss, because the **** and stick are farther forward and higher than on the 7.
The C6/7 shifter rod is shorter and angled; end result you dont have to reach up or as far forward to get 1-3-5.
End result was installing a late 2008 C6 shifter in my C5.
So much nicer. No, it didnt reduce notchiness, etc, but the simple ergonomic benefit is definitely worth it, IMHO.
Radar, never heard of a Callaway shifter. Any pix? How much do you want for the old one?
Radar, never heard of a Callaway shifter. Any pix? How much do you want for the old one?
If you have access to a C6, try it. You might be pleasantly surprised.
My total cost was less than $50 all up including a new ****, and the die to extend the threads on the stock lever. And I am happy with it. I don't want a heavy or a notchy shift, so no way was I going to spend hundreds of dollars on an aftermarket shifter for an 18, going on 19 year old car, sight unseen as it were.
If you want a benchmark as to how shifters should be, I recommend a drive in an early Miata - short shifts, finger light and no argument about which gear you are in. That was my goal. You can't really get all the way there with a Tremec as they are designed to handle truck like levels of torque, but you can get close.
Jack, I might give that a try. I'm thinking of putting a bend in mine but if the rubber is still inside that would be a bit too spectacular of an experience for my basement and smoke detectors.




















