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Anybody else have a solid feeling factory shifter?

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Old Jan 17, 2017 | 07:10 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by BillD1956
Opinion on C6 Z shifter vs stock? The biggest thing I see wrong with stock C5 shifter is the length of the throw.
In my 98, I replaced a B&M ripper shifter with the C6 Z06 shifter as the ripper was too notchy for me. C6 is much better IMO. I also like the C6 shifter better than my 02's stock shifter.
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Old Jan 17, 2017 | 10:23 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by v8srfun
. The only thing I do not like about it is the ruber material that gm used to isolate the upper and lower lever is to soft. I want to remove the soft rubber and somehow get something like polyurethane in there.
Your idea is very doable. The rubber is fairly stiff which is why I retained it. I was almost going to eliminate the top section but I figured that maybe GM was trying to isolate the shifter handle from driveline vibration/noise. If I had an extra handle I would try filling it with some kind of epoxy filler just to see if it makes a difference.
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Old Jan 17, 2017 | 10:39 PM
  #43  
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When I find the right material that is solid but not going to end up rock hard I will give it a try.
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Old Jan 18, 2017 | 06:26 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by v8srfun
When I find the right material that is solid but not going to end up rock hard I will give it a try.
Yes, makes sense. The materials that first come to mind seem to be too hard.
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Old Jan 18, 2017 | 10:17 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by BillD1956
Opinion on C6 Z shifter vs stock? The biggest thing I see wrong with stock C5 shifter is the length of the throw.
I've had them both apart on the bench. Same internals. They made the lower box a bit smaller for the C6 (cheaper), the insulator on the shaft is smaller (cheaper again) and put a bend in the shift lever and added a decent looking ****.

You can tighten up the stock shifter by taking it completely apart, drilling out the rivets holding the top plate on and using emory on a surface plate to take a little metal off. When you rebuild (3/16 bolts/nuts to replace the rivets), you will have eliminated any "slop" in the ball and socket mechanism.

The stock shifter relies totally on the transmission itself to provide positioning, which is why there is some cross gate "slop" in the lower gears. Some aftermarket shifters allow you to artificially tighten things up by restricting cross gate movement, but to me that's purely cosmetic.

After trying a few different approaches, I went with a tightened up, cut down and solid mounted factory shifter. And a decent shift ****. Works fine, and the throws are shorter, but still light and easy - two fingers are all you need.

One surprising thing I discovered - changing the gearbox oil makes a significant difference, especially if you have a few miles on. I did mine at about 66k and I had been experiencing balking, especially into 2nd, and it just went away after the change. Old fashioned non synthetic DEX III from Wallies, nothing fancy at all.
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Old Jan 19, 2017 | 07:37 PM
  #46  
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No complaints ... until I drove something different.

I didnt trade my C5 when I bought my C7
Switching between the two...the 5 became problematic in that in odd number gears, I would grab for the stick and miss, because the **** and stick are farther forward and higher than on the 7.

The C6/7 shifter rod is shorter and angled; end result you dont have to reach up or as far forward to get 1-3-5.

End result was installing a late 2008 C6 shifter in my C5.
So much nicer. No, it didnt reduce notchiness, etc, but the simple ergonomic benefit is definitely worth it, IMHO.

Last edited by aj98; Jan 19, 2017 at 07:40 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2017 | 09:57 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by jackthelad
I've had them both apart on the bench. Same internals. They made the lower box a bit smaller for the C6 (cheaper), the insulator on the shaft is smaller (cheaper again) and put a bend in the shift lever and added a decent looking ****.
You can tighten up the stock shifter by taking it completely apart, drilling out the rivets holding the top plate on and using emory on a surface plate to take a little metal off. When you rebuild (3/16 bolts/nuts to replace the rivets), you will have eliminated any "slop" in the ball and socket mechanism.
One surprising thing I discovered - changing the gearbox oil makes a significant difference, especially if you have a few miles on. I did mine at about 66k and I had been experiencing balking, especially into 2nd, and it just went away after the change. Old fashioned non synthetic DEX III from Wallies, nothing fancy at all.
Jack, do you have any pix, or can you give more details about the "tightening up" procedure? Was it the c5 shifter? How much metal do you think you removed? I already have a shortened lever.
Thanks!
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Old Jan 19, 2017 | 10:57 PM
  #48  
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When I converted my 03 from an A4 to an MN12 I used a 2010 C6 Z06 shifter and I love it.
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 01:38 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by aj98
No complaints ... until I drove something different.

I didnt trade my C5 when I bought my C7
Switching between the two...the 5 became problematic in that in odd number gears, I would grab for the stick and miss, because the **** and stick are farther forward and higher than on the 7.

The C6/7 shifter rod is shorter and angled; end result you dont have to reach up or as far forward to get 1-3-5.

End result was installing a late 2008 C6 shifter in my C5.
So much nicer. No, it didnt reduce notchiness, etc, but the simple ergonomic benefit is definitely worth it, IMHO.
I have shorter legs, a rear tilted shifter would not work for me. Where I sit, the stock shifter is perfectly positioned. If I were to switch out I'd have to opt for one that does not have a bend.
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 08:52 AM
  #50  
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I think people that like the stock shifters have never driven on e with a WAY better shifter.. I have a Callaway shifter in my 04/Z love it .. Anybody need a stock shifter I got one.
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 09:55 AM
  #51  
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Grantv, just as I was thinking of putting a bend in mine, you mentioned about short legs. I was browbeaten by my chiropractor to sit closer for my size due to my back problems I had, which can return if I do something dumb. He insisted that my legs have a significant bend. I'm 5'11", so being closer is good for my back, I wonder if the bent shifter would not be an asset.
Radar, never heard of a Callaway shifter. Any pix? How much do you want for the old one?
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 11:02 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by chasboy
Grantv, just as I was thinking of putting a bend in mine, you mentioned about short legs. I was browbeaten by my chiropractor to sit closer for my size due to my back problems I had, which can return if I do something dumb. He insisted that my legs have a significant bend. I'm 5'11", so being closer is good for my back, I wonder if the bent shifter would not be an asset.
Radar, never heard of a Callaway shifter. Any pix? How much do you want for the old one?
For you a C6Z shifter with its rear bend would probably work well. I'm 5'-9" with a 31" inseam, so I sit close...
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 12:20 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by grantv
I have shorter legs, a rear tilted shifter would not work for me. Where I sit, the stock shifter is perfectly positioned. If I were to switch out I'd have to opt for one that does not have a bend.
32 inseam here.

If you have access to a C6, try it. You might be pleasantly surprised.
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 03:11 PM
  #54  
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Default Pic of my Callaway shifter Hurst handel

All you can see is my moded Hurst pistol grip handle . I think Callaway still makes them for the C-5 not sure I got mine from a friend used they cost around $400.oo not cheap but is the best shifter I ever used I tried them all . Being a builder of custom rides make any kind of shift handle you want and fits you shifting style , Get a slab of Alum. and a pattern and start cutting if you mess up the first one make another , old school ..
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 03:27 PM
  #55  
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The stock C6 shifters are smooth and easy if you don't grope them.
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 03:59 PM
  #56  
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My other sports car is a Lotus Elise, so in comparison I have ZERO complaints about my C5 shifter.
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 07:43 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by chasboy
Jack, do you have any pix, or can you give more details about the "tightening up" procedure? Was it the c5 shifter? How much metal do you think you removed? I already have a shortened lever.
Thanks!
It was the stock C5 shifter. I took the top plate and ground a little off on the emory, then tried a re-assembly. It was still a bit floppy so I took it apart and took some more off. When I could re-assemble and feel a little "stickiness" I declared victory and re-assembled with Loctite and locknuts. This was maybe 10k mile ago. It still feels fine.

My total cost was less than $50 all up including a new ****, and the die to extend the threads on the stock lever. And I am happy with it. I don't want a heavy or a notchy shift, so no way was I going to spend hundreds of dollars on an aftermarket shifter for an 18, going on 19 year old car, sight unseen as it were.

If you want a benchmark as to how shifters should be, I recommend a drive in an early Miata - short shifts, finger light and no argument about which gear you are in. That was my goal. You can't really get all the way there with a Tremec as they are designed to handle truck like levels of torque, but you can get close.
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 12:31 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by radar502
. Being a builder of custom rides make any kind of shift handle you want and fits you shifting style , Get a slab of Alum. and a pattern and start cutting if you mess up the first one make another , old school ..
I make all my shift ***** too. I was a Metal shop teacher 1000 years ago but my Shopsmith won't handle metal. I try any material I can get. I have a few different ebonys and other exotics but they are too dark for my black interior.

Jack, I might give that a try. I'm thinking of putting a bend in mine but if the rubber is still inside that would be a bit too spectacular of an experience for my basement and smoke detectors.
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 07:41 PM
  #59  
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Yes I make them also . You can bend them some have some rubber in them but I think the stock one are just solid medal and can be headed and bent . I have a stock C-5 one if anybody can use one cheap ,I don't need it .. I hope..
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