I've always open trailered my vehicles. Now that I have the 'vert, I'm thinking of getting an enclosed trailer. Looks like it'll be an 8.5X20 as I think the 8.5X16 might be borderline short. Now this is the dq. How do you get the car in it? I can drive it and hop out, but don't think that's the best way. Do you use a winch? and how do you secure it? Any suggestions and pitfalls to avoid would be appreciated. It may be the winter home for the car as well. Thanks -- Leroy

 

The "escape door" is pretty much a requirement for any coupe vehicle (with larger doors).
This is a premium option type which removes the whole fender and side wall. But you can get others which are just a door that opens. You are going to have to measure you door height and check each trailer for it's height for the bottom lip of the escape door.



Winch is pretty much a necessity, just in case. But winching in is no picnic either. You have to leave the window down in case you need to adjust the steering wheel, both going in, and going out. Well, we are likely going to want the window up when finished, so now you still have to open the door, key in ignition, etc. etc. (Unless you have a window valet.) Also, a wireless controller for the winch is much better so you can stand/walk next to the steering wheel as you winch in the trailer.

And I probably wouldn't buy an enclosed trailer less than 24' long. You never know what else you are going to want to have with you. 24' gives you room for a pit vehicle, tools, tires, etc. I am starting to mess with CMC race cars, and am looking at 28-32' trailers myself, but the C5 will also be in mind when shopping; as well as my 1977 Lincoln Mark V which is 20' long.
(Quick funny story: I have the Lincoln in a 20' storage spot at the moment. I thought if it didn't fit right, I could just push on the tin wall with the back bumper guards. WRONG! Concrete block back wall! I had to remove the bumper to fit in a "8x20" storage spot that is really only 19'8" long.)

 

I use an 8x20 CargoMate enclosed trailer to haul my '93 C4 autocross car, but I have also hauled my '02 coupe a few times. With this trailer, either car fits in terms of length and I can also carry a set of race tires/wheels, tool box, and a few other items.

I can drive either car onto the trailer and I have pre-marked stopping points to get the weight distribution right. The big issue with most enclosed trailers is dealing with the inside wheel wells. With my trailer, they are 9" high and stick out from the side wall about 6.5" I can't open the driver's door on either car to get out, so I had to build risers to get the cars up about 4" (both cars are lowered ). Otherwise it would have been the NASCAR entry/exit deal and I'm too old for that anymore...

Most trailers will come with 4 tie-down points; make sure you use tie-down straps with 10,000 lb gross rating. Straps are marked with a "WWL" or Working Load Limit which is 1/3 the capacity of the gross rating. That's 3300 lbs each.

A 20' trailer can be towed with a 1/2 ton pickup. My 2008 Silverado witht he 6.0L motor and Z71 4WD package will tow 9300 lbs gross. The loaded trailer is about 6800 lbs. I use a weight distribution hitch to keep tongue weight at 500 lbs. The truck has an integral trailer brake system, but there are some good units from Tekonsha.

If you go with a 24' trailer, you will want a 3/4 ton pickup and preferable diesel power. Trailers in this size can easily handle 10K lbs gross weight and a gas-powered 1/2 ton is not a good choice.