starting a project on my 04 C5. Looking for suspension recommendations for a better/lower stance and better handeling

 

Just did my 04 over the winter. I went with the FE3 springs, C6Z06 shocks, and Steinjager swaybars package. Really tightened up the handling, and the ride isn't too harsh. Didn't cost me a fortune either. Got the springs from Corvette Recycling, shocks and sways new off Ebay. Total cost was around $1000.

 

On my 04 I got Z06 shocks and sway bars from GM in Carlilse brand new off an 09 , $540.00 took 2 hrs to install and it's great

 

I used to be in the "coilovers, coilovers, coilovers" crew, but lately I'm realizing that they are kinda overkill and usually not great for street driven cars due to being poorly setup.

My brother in law picked up an Audi A4 on coilovers and it's impossible to get those particular ones dialed in to where they're perfect. Maybe some higher quality ones with a professional setting them up would help, but just based off the manufacturers basic setup instructions they aren't great.

Going with the c6z shocks, c6z51 swaybars, and maybe c5z or z51 springs should be a literal drop in upgrade that's already well optimized for the chassis.

 

with this. Plus the upgrade can be done at a very reasonable cost.

 

Did the fe3 springs lower it any?

 

So one of the problems we all face with modifying the suspension is that it is a lot of guess work. We are taking the suspension designed and tested by the engineers and adding stuff from other designs or based on antidotal evidence. Most of us don’t have the time and expense to test every combination so we rely on what others may have done and a majority consensus that it was the “right” way to go. However, just because most did it this way or that does not make it right. The most we can really do is make an informed decision and go with it. I tried a number of different combinations to lower and improve handling. Most did one or the other but not both. Researching more about suspension basics I finally landed on a combination of mods designed to balance the changes. For example: if you choose a method to lower the car then you have to mitigate the loss of suspension travel. Admittedly no expert, but have learned a lot along the way and in no way saying what I did is either right or wrong only that it worked in my situation. After all was said and done I am on the following: Coil overs with upgraded springs, drop spindles, C6 Z06 sway bars (currently using OEM rubber bushings but you can tune the bars further with the use of poly bushings), metal end links, and wider wheels and tires. Then had the car corner balanced and the alignment tuned to match the components but adequate for daily driving. Also, refreshed all of the toe/tie rods/links (inner and outer, front and rear) and lower ball joints (the drop spindles use spherical pins on top). Expensive? Yes, but mods are never really cheap, just ongoing. Not for everyone I know, and there is a lot of good to be said about using the C6 Z51 or Z06 sways, shocks, and the C5 Z51/Z06 springs as an upgrade at a reasonable cost.

 

No. Keep in mind here that I also installed new C6Z06 shocks as well. They're a bit stiffer on the compression/rebound, as well as the rubber bushings being taller since they're new, so I can't speak to how much they add to the equation. With that said, I recorded all the original ride height adjuster positions carefully before the switch over, and placed them in the same positions on the FE3 springs. This is also a good time to put some Never Seize on the adjuster threads. Once the switch over was complete, it sat higher, and only dropped a bit after some runs around the block (I live in the country) on some bump roads to settle it. I did come down about a 1/2", but it still sat higher than before the switch. I assume because the springs are stiffer, combined with the different contour. From there, I readjusted until I got the ride height about 1/4" below where I was originally. I'm on the stock adjusters, and there's still adjustment left to go lower. I'm really at the limit of where I can get handling at speed, and yet not bottom out the shock. My front spoilers will drag ever so slightly under hard braking. My final ride height adjustments were done using the points where the A arms meet the chassis cradles on a flat and level floor. Using the body for reference is a bag of cats, you'll be all over the place. Even using the jacking points as a reference is meh. I'm sure I'll catch heck from the higher powers for using this method, but it works for me. Afterwards, I rechecked my swaybars for any tension, and readjusted the links. Rechecked the height again at the four corners to ensure nothing moved.

Then, drive it for a couple of weeks. find some bumpy roads to help things settle. Take some more measurements to confirm that nothing's changed. If so, tweak it back, drive it some more and recheck. Once you have stable measurements, get a complete wheel alignment done.

If you're wondering,"How bumpy does a road have to be to settle the suspension?", I'll refer you to this video of a C7 coming off the assembly line. Watch the wheels at 0:59 to 1:01. I'm not saying run 20 miles of this, but say a bridge with a dozen rough expansion joints should do quite nicely.


This is how mine sits now;



Like I said, I can still go lower on the stock adjusters, but this is where I like it.

Also, if you're considering the switch to the FE3 springs, ensure that you order the correct one for the rear. There are two different numbers; one for automatics, and one for manuals, to compensate for the weight difference between the two models. Front spring is the same for both. I don't have the numbers off the top of my head, but Google is your friend.

Mental notes from the switch; rear spring went in like butter. Front spring was a bit of a beyotch. It's got more of an arc to it, so you really have to work to get it into place. Not a total pisser, but getting an extra pair of hands to help hold the A arms completely down on one side helps.