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I'll post pix when I install the rerouted AC line.
LG's do have a nice tight long design
Let us know how the LG's fit and how low they hang....I may end up junking my XSP's too if they cause anymore problems.
I'll post pix when I install the rerouted AC line.
LG's do have a nice tight long design
Let us know how the LG's fit and how low they hang....I may end up junking my XSP's too if they cause anymore problems.
The problem was when going straight up the header flange would not clear the bell housing corner so I was trying to go up at an angle, front flange up which was not working at all.
I removed the bell housing cover and it gave just a little more clearance and slide right in when positioning the header flange straight.
Bell housing removed
20fa8078591b1c5fe2bd2057253.jpg[/IMG]
I just noticed that the passenger side header doesn't have the little metal block to secure the dip stick, I emailed Jon for suggestions
From this picture you got a later model header see the air tube in wrong place. You old exhaust manifold are in the last tube. So I bet you car is a 97-98 and you are trying to install a 2000-2004 header.
From this picture you got a later model header see the air tube in wrong place. You old exhaust manifold are in the last tube. So I bet you car is a 97-98 and you are trying to install a 2000-2004 header.
No. they just make one kind. Block off plates provided for the earlier models.
I was able to install my headers and have about 400 miles on them, without any issues....knock on wood. My are like other pretty damn close to the AC line, but it's about 1/16" away from the edge of the seam on the heat/insulation wrap around the AC line. So, I hope to be fine. I did work on it a bit with a large pry bar to get it as far away as possible.
We'll see how it goes, I was able to hit the track last night. Traction was very limited...so time for a pair of front ZO6 wheels and DRs.
Don't mind me pulling on my shorts. I forgot to bring pants, and was trying to make them not notice.
Last edited by Black_Z28; Jul 13, 2017 at 03:36 PM.
From this picture you got a later model header see the air tube in wrong place. You old exhaust manifold are in the last tube. So I bet you car is a 97-98 and you are trying to install a 2000-2004 header.
Yup, I order a new tube and it wouldn't align properly either
so I bent the old tube's flange and lined it up with the air bolt.
Not pretty but does the job.
I was able to install my headers and have about 400 miles on them, without any issues....knock on wood. My are like other pretty damn close to the AC line, but it's about 1/16" away from the edge of the seam on the heat/insulation wrap around the AC line. So, I hope to be fine. I did work on it a bit with a large pry bar to get it as far away as possible.
We'll see how it goes, I was able to hit the track last night. Traction was very limited...so time for a pair of front ZO6 wheels and DRs.
Don't mind me pulling on my shorts. I forgot to bring pants, and was trying to make them not notice.
1/16" is not enough, I had about 1/4" after prying it away but the tube went back to it's original position.
Failure probably won't happen with short trips or burst of heat. In my case it took a 4+ hour drive for the heat, bumps and vibes to torch the AC tube.
If I new this would be an issue, I would have tried to clamp that tube closer to the chassis and/or dimple the primary to make it stay as far away from the header.
1/16" is not enough, I had about 1/4" after prying it away but the tube went back to it's original position.
Failure probably won't happen with short trips or burst of heat. In my case it took a 4+ hour drive for the heat, bumps and vibes to torch the AC tube.
If I new this would be an issue, I would have tried to clamp that tube closer to the chassis and/or dimple the primary to make it stay as far away from the header.
It's a custom order so I should get it in 2 weeks. I'll post pix.
I'm going to try and dimple the AC line first. See how that goes. I doubt I'll be doing any trips that last longer then a hour or two in the car. If that fails, then I'll replace the line with something like you're doing. It'll be interesting to see how it works out for you. Once you put a new line on, all you have to do is add new refrigerant, correct?
I would not recommend dimpling the aluminum AC line, it's fragile and if you restrict it too much, it will affect your AC system performance and may add stress to the compressor that could cause leaks or early failure.
Try dimpling the header first.
After I install the new flex tube, I need a shop to properly suck out the system and refill it.
i do not recommend doing this yourself as you need to add the correct amount refrigerant.
it may cost just as much of DYI refrigerant versus having a pro do it.
I would not recommend dimpling the aluminum AC line, it's fragile and if you restrict it too much, it will affect your AC system performance and may add stress to the compressor that could cause leaks or early failure.
Try dimpling the header first.
After I install the new flex tube, I need a shop to properly suck out the system and refill it.
i do not recommend doing this yourself as you need to add the correct amount refrigerant.
it may cost just as much of DYI refrigerant versus having a pro do it.
I moved my AC line as much as I could then wrapped with header tape. Three years and no issues ??? If it failed I was going to have a custom one made and route it above the wheel well, GM should have done that to begin with ???
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