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Having problems inserting the headers, on both sides, from underneath the car.
These are XPS headers from Huron Speed. I would normally contact Jon but since it's a holiday weekend I figured maybe someone on the forum could help.
Their install instructions went well until I tried to insert tHe headers.
The car is on a lift, I tried many angles but can't seem to wiggle them thru. Even tried unbolting engine mounts, raising the engine a such as possible, disconnected the ground wires, removed starter, no luck.
I get the flange 3/4 up and the tubes get stuck on the oil pan wing and the cradle.
They can be tight but will fit. Sounds like you need to walk away and come back. Did you try from the top just in case? No reason to remove oil pan, just figure out the angle that allows it to clear oil pan.
Chris
They can be tight but will fit. Sounds like you need to walk away and come back. Did you try from the top just in case? No reason to remove oil pan, just figure out the angle that allows it to clear oil pan.
Chris
tried the top, and it was even tighter, no play due to the AC lines.
Walked away a few times, didn't help 😫
Tried the driver side, same thing,
i wish there was a video showing how to do this.
I'm still thinking of removing the oil pan and raising the engine, should provide ample clearance.
Mine went in from the top on the passengers side and from the bottom on the drivers side. I did remove the coil packs and valve covers for a little extra clearance. The ground strap on the drivers side will need to be removed as well as the starter.
Mine went in from the top on the passengers side and from the bottom on the drivers side. I did remove the coil packs and valve covers for a little extra clearance. The ground strap on the drivers side will need to be removed as well as the starter.
Tried per your instructions below, no joy.
Although it gets closer, still can turn it enough to align the flange with the ports.
The headers are ceramic coated and at this rate I'll scrape quite a bit off.
Tried per your instructions below, no joy.
Although it gets closer, still can turn it enough to align the flange with the ports.
The headers are ceramic coated and at this rate I'll scrape quite a bit off.
Going to try removing the oil pan....
Well, getting the oil pan off is not easy as I thought. I can't get it out even when I jack up the engine a few inches. Even with the pan moved slightly lower, still can't insert the header, pan is not low enough.
Anybody have any ideas on how to remove the oil pan?
I've had a frustrating day, I think I'll stop now and give another go tomorrow.
If you must remove oil pan here ya go: I did mine on a 4 post lift with intake and heads removed, I am currently re-ringing motor . After obvious bolts being removed from pan, motor mount cradle side nuts removed, front subframe bolts loosened to the max. Now jack car from front jacking points while car is 6 foot in air on lift(If 4 post lift used ). Now cut TWO 2x4's to a length where they fit vertically from floor to front of torque tube where it bolts to bell housing and the other to the front of the motor (I think used underside of A/C bracket. So at this point front wheels off the ground so subframe is resting on loosened bolt heads, 2x4's in place. Now lower lift Slightly and slowly till you have enough room to slide oil pan towards rear of car. Most of the load is on the torque tube/bell housing seam. Do not use harmonic damper as a point to lift motor! You need to raise engine quite a bit to clear oil tube pick up. P.S. I had my heads off and intake so no guarantees! I'd lube the headers with anything and everything before I removed oil pan!!! Goodluck
Well, getting the oil pan off is not easy as I thought. I can't get it out even when I jack up the engine a few inches. Even with the pan moved slightly lower, still can't insert the header, pan is not low enough.
Anybody have any ideas on how to remove the oil pan?
I've had a frustrating day, I think I'll stop now and give another go tomorrow.
Long story short, I've removed the oil pan with the engine in the car and it was a huge pain in the ***.
Have you tried unbolting the engine mounts and jacking the engine up to rotate the engine to give you more room? For example, on the passengers side, remove the engine mount nut from the bottom and then loosen the motor mount nut on the drivers side, then jack the engine up. This will help rotate the engine towards the drivers side of the car.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm obviously making this harder than it should be. I've removed the starter and unbolted all the ground wires and pushed the wiring to the side, no issues there.
Sounds like removing the oil pan is a painful way to go, so I'll hold on this for now.
I did loosen the motor mounts and jack up the engine a few inches until the intake hits the cowl and even with the oil pan loosened I still can't get past the tubes hitting the oil pan wing. I'm not getting the right insertion angle.
I'll give it another try this morning and post some pix a little later.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm obviously making this harder than it should be. I've removed the starter and unbolted all the ground wires and pushed the wiring to the side, no issues there.
Sounds like removing the oil pan is a painful way to go, so I'll hold on this for now.
I did loosen the motor mounts and jack up the engine a few inches until the intake hits the cowl and even with the oil pan loosened I still can't get past the tubes hitting the oil pan wing. I'm not getting the right insertion angle.
I'll give it another try this morning and post some pix a little later.
Thanks, appreciate the help.
I love to do projects to the Vette....you just scared the hell out of me with the header project. Knew it was difficult but not that difficult.
Thanks for your post....subscribed and interested.
If I had this much effort with these, I would select another brand. If it is this tight, then I can only imagine problems with them rubbing onto or too much heat near wires.
I don't know why they are so difficult unless something is wrong with them. I did mine from the bottom in my garage on jack stands. Completed entire job in 2 days by myself.
I'm guessing as someone else mentioned that it is insertion angle. Are you trying to go in at the same angle of install, or tipping in the leading edge first and then raising up the rear? And I know you had them coated, but you're gonna have to give it a bit of muscle some times to wedge it in. Driver's side should be like butter.
I do recall some folks talking about a flange on the oil pan or block that was giving them problems, so much so that they had to grind it off. Doesn't affect anything long term, but may be an issue for you. Again, I didn't have to do this, so maybe someone else can assist if you need to know more on it.
Pictures may be able to help us understand the insertion angles and any pinch points that you are stumbling with.
If I had this much effort with these, I would select another brand. If it is this tight, then I can only imagine problems with them rubbing onto or too much heat near wires.
+1 after what appears to be a run of good reviews on these headers, this thread kind of scares me. I held off on pulling the trigger on ordering these after reading this, and I'm now considering spending the extra to have a shop do the work just so that I don't have to deal with this kind of a headache.
+1 after what appears to be a run of good reviews on these headers, this thread kind of scares me. I held off on pulling the trigger on ordering these after reading this, and I'm now considering spending the extra to have a shop do the work just so that I don't have to deal with this kind of a headache.
I had read positive reviews on them before buying mine so I pulled the trigger on a set. Passenger side header fits fine yet the driver's side rubs on the steering colum and the collected is uncomfortably close to the bell housing. Looking back now, I wish I would've gone with another brand.
I had read positive reviews on them before buying mine so I pulled the trigger on a set. Passenger side header fits fine yet the driver's side rubs on the steering colum and the collected is uncomfortably close to the bell housing. Looking back now, I wish I would've gone with another brand.
Weird. There must be some quality control issues. Does Huron Speed not have a phone number? I wanted to call and talk to them about their product.. email only??
Weird. There must be some quality control issues. Does Huron Speed not have a phone number? I wanted to call and talk to them about their product.. email only??
All my correspondence has been via email and they've been very responsive.
The problem was when going straight up the header flange would not clear the bell housing corner so I was trying to go up at an angle, front flange up which was not working at all.
I removed the bell housing cover and it gave just a little more clearance and slide right in when positioning the header flange straight.
Bell housing removed
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I just noticed that the passenger side header doesn't have the little metal block to secure the dip stick, I emailed Jon for suggestions