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Temp running hot

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Old Jun 8, 2017 | 01:56 PM
  #21  
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Change thread title to "Temp running normal"

Either you're a new owner or garage your car 90% of the year, you're experiencing a normal operating temperature.

​​​​gm would never sell a car that's guaranteed to overheat.

​​​​​again, normal operating temperature.
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Old Jul 17, 2017 | 11:41 PM
  #22  
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So, then is it also normal for the coolant in my surge tank to be boiling after every drive?
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Old Jul 17, 2017 | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by IrishViking505
So, then is it also normal for the coolant in my surge tank to be boiling after every drive?
No it's not normal. Because the coolant system is pressurized. It shouldn't boil until it goes well over 250. That's why the mid point on the water temp gauge is 220.

I had my car out on a day when it was 119F ambient. I was shifting at redline and basically driving as hard as possible outside of a track environment. The water temp still didn't go over low 230 range. Even cruising around normally, when it's over 100F outside, my coolant will get to as high as 230. The factory programming doesn't even turn the fan on slow until 226. If it was really bad for the engine to let the coolant get that hot, they would turn on sooner. Evil Twin said he changes his thermostat in the summer to maximize hp, but that a hotter temp is actually better for engine longevity. If you run a cold thermostat like 160 in the winter, you are slowly killing your engine. Go ahead and run a 160 in the summer if you want, but make sure you go back to the stock thermostat in the winter. It's too much work for me to worry about. The IAT is already so hot in the summer, I can feel the car pulling back the timing. So a colder thermostat won't really do jack for my summer hp #s.
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 10:14 AM
  #24  
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Mine in traffic was getting to 230-240 range and normal was 225. With AC on one day it hit 255 in 92 degree heat outside.

I figured the previous owner never changed anti freeze since mine looked more very dark orange then light orange.

Figured I would change the thermostat out since this also sounded like a thermo not fully opening. Bought a new thermo and a 18lbs cap. Now im hovering around the 190-200 range. In traffic 220 is steady now.

Last edited by bravo29; Jul 18, 2017 at 10:14 AM.
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Old Jul 20, 2017 | 01:31 AM
  #25  
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got a new cap...seems to have helped. No boil, but it still gets hot - 227 today.
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Old Jul 20, 2017 | 09:08 AM
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I vacuumed the radiator and took quite a bit of dirt/debris out, which helped. Also drained about 1 gal. from radiator and replaced with new and a half bottle of redline water wetter. My temps now on mid 90 deg days still stay under 200 with AC on. If I set idling for a few mins it will creep just over 200 but drops right down when moving again.
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Old Jul 20, 2017 | 11:24 PM
  #27  
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Well, been thinking about getting a DeWitt's radiator and new fan assembly.
I had a DeWitt's in my 1968 Chevelle...and loved it.
Anyone have any experiences with a DeWitt's in their C5?

Last edited by IrishViking505; Jul 20, 2017 at 11:24 PM.
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Old Jul 21, 2017 | 10:03 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Before jumping to a different radiator and fans I would begin by insuring the fins for the radiator are clear of all debris like leaves, twigs, plastic bags, etc. The C5 is a bottom breather for cooling air and as such sucks up everything on the road and throws it up against the radiator and AC fins. Plenty of threads on the Forum about cleaning out the debris.

In answer to your Dewitts questions I have one along with his higher capacity fans on my 04 C5 Commemorative Edition Vert. Works very well. But it is unnecessary unless you have engine mods, or forced induction, that are generating a lot more heat than the stock engine. I have a maggie and that, along with the fact that the intercooler sits in front of the air pickup for the radiator, causes lots of heat. I also have the cooling fans coming on at a much lower temp than the factory setup. Factory turn on for the cooling fans in low speed mode is 226 with the AC OFF and 185 with the AC running. However, the fans do NOT run at vehicle speeds above 35MPH so the fans only help at low speeds.

If your car is basically stock the factory radiator is adequate as long as the cooling fins are clean and the rest of the cooling system is in good codition...........






Yeah, I got up underneath and the radiator is clear and clean.


I have already installed a new water pump, thermostat and surge tank cap.


Other than a CAI, I am not sure what else has been done to the engine. The previous owner has passed away and last time we spoke about his car, he had said he had some engine work done...but I am not sure.
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Old Jul 21, 2017 | 10:49 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Pounder
like I said every other LS based vehicle runs below 200, I have had many trucks and a Monte SS !!!!! every proformance person wants their engines running cool, heat is the major enemy of everything on a vehicle !!!
Not supporting you know who but in Florida when hot out, 90* plus my 2014 Gmc 5.3l wth ac on will run at least 210 and not budge lower. This was also about where my 2005 GMC ran also... as memory serves.

Last edited by Forcedvert; Jul 22, 2017 at 01:05 PM.
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Old Jul 22, 2017 | 10:30 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ArtClassShank
Bottom feeder makes a huge difference. You're seeing these sort of "high" temps when theres basically no significant airflow over the radiator. You could argue the fans were designed around this type of system. Bottom line is, if your fans come on when they're supposed too and your temperatures drop, the system is working. Same goes for cruising.
SO TRUE!!!
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Old Jul 22, 2017 | 12:55 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Mphillips10
I have a 99 c5 and when it's warm or hot outside and I stop at a red light the temp jumps from 192 to 230. Is that normal or is something not working right?
If you haven't actually blown out the A/C condenser and the radiator I would bet you will be surprised what will come out of both. Mine looked clean but after blowing both out I was amazed at how much dirt and gravel came out. If you can get the car up I the air, as on a hoist where you can really get to it to blow it out I think you might be surprised. They actually are designed to run much hotter than what we are used to in the "old" days. My car has almost 97,000 miles on it and still has the original water pump, and pressure cap on it. No problems so far. I have changed the coolant and thermostat. The thermostat is a factory original type. Good luck.
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