What did anyone find out about the "low oil pressure warning"? I am having the problem and I have changed out my oil sending unit 2 years ago. I have been reading posts about this issue but no one ever comes back with what the problem turned out to be. I have been looking through this forum for answers and almost everyone says they will try something but never comes back with what fixed problem.

 

NO, did not do that yet, I did change the oil and filter the oil to see if there were any metal shavings in it and there was nothing. I do not hear any noise coming from the engine. I have replaced the oil sending unit 2 years ago. Bought a new one just in case.

 

Not unheard of that these parts fail. Depends on where it's made. JMO.

 

Oil pump?

 

When I bout my 2000 in 2002, I went to a Corvette event and when I went to start my car, I noticed the oil pressure was 0. Since I was there with some club members, 2 were GM engineers, they said to not drive it. My son-in-law had his trailer at the event so we loaded and dropped off at the dealer. One of the engineers emailed me about LS1 issues with some oil pump problems--silent recall. Gave the info to the dealer and everything in the oiling system was replaced under warranty. Yes there were some bad oil pumps/pick ups on the LS1 motors.

 

I had several oil pressure sending units fail in a row over a two-year period.......until I finally relocated the OP sensor. No failures since. But usually, when the OP sensors fail they tend to show excessive high pressure rather than low.

 

Is it going down out of nowhere and coming back up immediately or going down and staying down?

 

I was having the same issue, changed the sending unit did the mechanical reading couldn't find the darn issue. Decided not to risk it and changed the oil pump for an aftermarket one and while there did the balancer and new belt, I also took the oil pan out and checked the pickup tube just for the heck of it.

Problem solved... Good luck.

 

It is fine, goes up to 50 but then hovers around 40 at lights then at 45mph will go back to 50 then next light may drop to 30, goes to 40 at 45mph may go down some then back up to 40 and next light drop to 0. After light may go back to 40 and drop to 0 again at next light.

 

I can't believe it, looks like it was the OSU.......AGAIN...... I changed it just as a last test before I was to began taring the motor down to change the oil pump....Dealer wanted $2000. I am so glad I used the cut method to replace it the first time, I could not imagine having to take off the manifold twice to replace this thing that could fail multiple times.

 

You could've got it out without cutting or pulling the manifold.

 

Just relocate the OPS and your failures will likely disappear.
I had three brass OPS replacements die in a row over the period of a several months.
Once I relocated the OPS to along the fuel lines under the coil cover there were no additional failures.

Lots of how to relocate threads here.

 

The oil pump o-ring is known to be a regular fail on LS motors...

 

Hopefully that was in fact the problem and you now have it fixed.

 

Knock on wood, I still have the the original OPS in my 04 with 66k on the clock. No issues, no leaks........



I probably just jinks myself by saying this....

 

About 20 years ago I read an article in one of the hot rod magazines that I subscribed to at the time and the subject was how we tend to assume the worst and over analyze the problems we have with our cars from time to time. The short version of the article was, most of the time the solution is a simple one. I have tried to remember that but most recently I found myself in that very position when I was trying to find an oil leak that developed in my '01 convertible. I have a hoist and after raising the car and searching for some time wasn't able to find the source of the leak. I was convinced it was a pan gasket leak after ruling out an oil pressure sending unit because it had been replaced last year. I tightened all the bolts on the pan and still had the drip and the leak seemed to be coming from high on the back of the engine and still thinking the worst thought maybe the intake manifold could be the problem. After 2 attempts of looking around the back side of the engine with a remote camera I finally seen the oil pressure sending unit leaking slightly. I changed the sending unit and problem solved. In my opinion if I was you I would replace the sending unit and see what happens. The LS engines are well built and not noted for sudden oil pressure problems (I know, anything can happen) but the odds are it's a sender if no problems were known to exist in the past with this vehicle. The sending units are known for failure (as I should have remembered) and I would try replacing that before changing out a lot of parts. If you are able to install a mechanical gauge to verify this all the better, but that will require some doing. Just my opinion. Good luck.

 

IF this thing fails again I will do the relocation. I was wondering if this is a issue with putting car away over the winter and not starting it? Before I got my battery tender, I used to just disconnect the battery and every now an then connect it and start the car to let it run in my garage, and back then I did not have this problem. The first year I put on tender, I did not start the car over winter and this is when the first sending unit went out.

 

I don't think so.
I drive my Vettes all year long except in snow or ice and I had three OPS fail in a row
Until I relocated my OPS........since then 0 failures. thumbs:

 

My Delco OPS that I installed (via the cutting the cowl method) just tanked on me the other day. The first time I had to replace it the gauge was pegged at 80 so I pretty much knew what it was. This time it bounced around some before dropping to zero(twice) which freaked me out thinking the oil pump had bit the dust. I didn't hear anything out of the ordinary and the engine temp didn't rise so I limped it home and ordered a Standard Products OPS from Rockauto. The first one I replaced was brass so I knew it wasn't stock and thinking that OEM would be better I went w/the Delco. That lasted about 2 years before going south. The one from RA showed to be brass on the website but was alum when it arrived. It does however have a beefier body to it than the Delco so MAYBE it will last a little longer. I can now change it out in about 30 mins with the access in the cowl. It takes about 15 mins just to remove the Gorilla duct tape that I use to close the opening.

 

How did you relocate the sensor? I recall a forum vendor used to sell a block for the oil filter that provided a mounting point for this, but I can’t find now.

Thanks! Clint