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Can some of the more informed explain the comparison differences if any of the test video using full size pipes/openings (it appears) on all of it's test components vs replacing the "H" pipe on a C5 (with it's very small opening) with a "X" pipe?
I had a post earlier today that seems to have disappeared for some reason so I will try asking my question again.
The video seems to show the use of open pipes for all of the test including the "H" pipe. Given that the C5 "H" pipe has such a small hole when you replace it with a "X" pipe will you possibly see more of an improvement than the results of the video?
I see the other post is back now.... sorry for asking the same thing twice.
I'm happy with my stock h-pipe and the exhaust bypass I had done. Sounds good to me and my wife likes it.
I don't need another 3 hp. I do need to 300 to 400 bucks an x-pipe costs. I spent 60 bucks for the bypass.
Happy, happy, happy here!
...Given that the C5 "H" pipe has such a small hole...
The posts below may throw some light on this.
Originally Posted by Mr. Black
...I have also read some posts over the last 6 months or so that say the factory H pipe doesn't really have full size holes where the H meets the mid pipes. I looked at mine when I modified the stock mid pipe assy and it has full size holes in the crossover...
Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
...The H pipe in a First gen C5 was the size of a dime not 2.5 inches... in 2000 they opened that cross pipe up to 1.250 in...
The video proves the only difference is sound and thats nothing but a preference. For 20 years we have had people swearing a CAI gives them 50 hp gains but we all know thats horse hockey. I have reservations about any claim of noticeable hp gains from either pipe over the other.
Here is a viable " test " for most here. The notion of seat of the pants dyno. Most people who have owned their car for several years ( the more the better ), can get a feel for real HP gains in your C5. For those with a sensitive butt-dyno. If you can feel the difference in your car in the winter, when air is more dense. The formula is scientific in corrected dyno numbers for denser air.. Since the formula is 1.2 to 1.5 hp gains for every 10 degrees of colder temperature ( relative.. ) so if your car is putting out 350 hp ( arbitrary ) At 90* F , the same car will see an increase in Hp by about 10 HP @ 20* F. If you can feel that difference, you can feel 9 to 10 HP gain.. its fairly hard to seat dyno anything less. You will never feel a 3 to 5 hp gain. This should give you some idea of your personal driving sensation ability. If you feel no difference in performance between summer and winter with a 70 or 80 degree F swing then you are not seat sensitive.
The video proves the only difference is sound and thats nothing but a preference. For 20 years we have had people swearing a CAI gives them 50 hp gains but we all know thats horse hockey. I have reservations about any claim of noticeable hp gains from either pipe over the other.
Here is a viable " test " for most here. The notion of seat of the pants dyno. Most people who have owned their car for several years ( the more the better ), can get a feel for real HP gains in your C5. For those with a sensitive butt-dyno. If you can feel the difference in your car in the winter, when air is more dense. The formula is scientific in corrected dyno numbers for denser air.. Since the formula is 1.2 to 1.5 hp gains for every 10 degrees of colder temperature ( relative.. ) so if your car is putting out 350 hp ( arbitrary ) At 90* F , the same car will see an increase in Hp by about 10 HP @ 20* F. If you can feel that difference, you can feel 9 to 10 HP gain.. its fairly hard to seat dyno anything less. You will never feel a 3 to 5 hp gain. This should give you some idea of your personal driving sensation ability. If you feel no difference in performance between summer and winter with a 70 or 80 degree F swing then you are not seat sensitive.
Here is a viable " test " for most here. The notion of seat of the pants dyno. Most people who have owned their car for several years ( the more the better ), can get a feel for real HP gains in your C5. For those with a sensitive butt-dyno. If you can feel the difference in your car in the winter, when air is more dense. Bill
I think I qualify. I have driven both my C5’s in the winter and the difference is noticeable. The engine seems ‘happy’ in anthropomorphic terms. I rarely listen to my radio, preferring the ‘music’ of the car, which includes all manner of sounds. When I got my C6Z06 sway bars, I felt ‘something’ on straight and flat, but definitely felt the difference on curves. I’m fully aware that when one makes a modification that could be felt, they ‘want’ to feel it. Who cares, if I’m having more fun enjoying my car.
My first car, a 1959 Fiat Millicenti made me very sound and engine-response aware. It started fine in dry weather and ran ok. In rainy weather (frequent when going to college on Long Island) it HATED to start, but once it did, it ran much better. Caused me to look into the DIY “Water injector’ systems that were around at the time.
I think I qualify. I have driven both my C5’s in the winter and the difference is noticeable. The engine seems ‘happy’ in anthropomorphic terms. I rarely listen to my radio, preferring the ‘music’ of the car, which includes all manner of sounds. When I got my C6Z06 sway bars, I felt ‘something’ on straight and flat, but definitely felt the difference on curves. I’m fully aware that when one makes a modification that could be felt, they ‘want’ to feel it. Who cares, if I’m having more fun enjoying my car.
My first car, a 1959 Fiat Millicenti made me very sound and engine-response aware. It started fine in dry weather and ran ok. In rainy weather (frequent when going to college on Long Island) it HATED to start, but once it did, it ran much better. Caused me to look into the DIY “Water injector’ systems that were around at the time.
back in those days of college. lots of cars that displayed start problems until warm were due to moisture in the distributer. AS cars aged wires, caps, points rotors, clearance in the distributer made an issue of spark.. ( ignition. ) . just a flash back to the 60's. Water mist injection has been making a comeback, but only to cool mist the cylinders and prevent hot spots., pre ignition.
Bill
Thanks GCG. Does this equate to the post "2000" cars such as my "2001" having less motor boating or popping sound with an after market exhaust or am I still in need of a cross pipe when I upgrade if I want to reduce or eliminate it?
Here is a viable " test " for most here. The notion of seat of the pants dyno. Most people who have owned their car for several years ( the more the better ), can get a feel for real HP gains in your C5. For those with a sensitive butt-dyno. If you can feel the difference in your car in the winter, when air is more dense. The formula is scientific in corrected dyno numbers for denser air.. Since the formula is 1.2 to 1.5 hp gains for every 10 degrees of colder temperature ( relative.. ) so if your car is putting out 350 hp ( arbitrary ) At 90* F , the same car will see an increase in Hp by about 10 HP @ 20* F. If you can feel that difference, you can feel 9 to 10 HP gain.. its fairly hard to seat dyno anything less. You will never feel a 3 to 5 hp gain. This should give you some idea of your personal driving sensation ability. If you feel no difference in performance between summer and winter with a 70 or 80 degree F swing then you are not seat sensitive.
Bill
I concur, especially with forced induction. On top of the colder dense air being forced into the engine, I believe the colder air also helps the intercooler stay cold, hence even colder air going into the engine. I can really tell I have more HP in my turbo Talon (400 HP) in the late fall and same goes with my super charged C5 (620HP). I really don't fell a difference in my near stock C5.
That video is only a small part of how we all actually use our cars... those tests are just a straight pull up to peak horse power and torque. You did not see any testing where the motor was accelerated and decelerated over an hour or so... " Normal street driving and aggressive street driving.".. There are very few professional road racers here.. While at a full Pull, the Xpipe show an edge, it is even more advantageous under normal Corvette Street use with an assortment of driving styles from Mild to aggressive.. Bythe way THAT H-pipe in the video that came close to an X pipe, was skewed in that the Cross pipe was 2 feet long and internally it was 2.5 inches as stated .You have to understand exhaust systems to see these little nuances that effect a real life situation. The H pipe in a First gen C5 was the size of a dime not 2.5 inches... in 2000 they opened that cross pipe up to 1.250 in. Some people Think straight pips are best but in reality they are living in the 60's. from a technology point of view.
Some street urchins " Think " Street urchine " ( those who might point out a type-o to somehow try to make a point … fairly sad in my opinion. not having the ability to recognize a type-o)
that running 3 inch pipes are better than running 2.5 inch pipes.. it only shows their lack of real automotive knowledge,, while some Big cube motors can benefit by 3 inch pipes , most Corvettes would lose from this choice. Bigger is not always better, Take 20 inch wheels... Some like them but the real problem is not the wheel, ( well it is if they are cheap and you want to avoid bending them ) its the tire. Given a 20 inch wheel reduces the side wall of tire fitted for 20's on a Corvette, what is does is break down the road absorption factor.. in slow motion a 20 or 25 aspect ratio tire will bottom out to the rim on most post holes rail road tracks and road hazards... leaving the wheel extremely susceptible to being bent. Running cheap wheels with 20 or 25 aspect ratio tires is formula for disaster.Everything is a trade off.
Some people like aesthetics and other like functionality.. Its a smart man who will recognize what the trade off actually is. People who choose 60's automotive technology are living in the past, the ancient past when it come to todays technology. Straight pipes are laughable from all of todays automotive engineers. OH and I forgot to mention, there are those out there who think their liberal arts, degree, or shade tree degree can qualify them to over achieve a professional automotive engineer. There are lots of them here. these guys think they know something, and have no test data or equipment to back up anything they do. Guys running 650 hp with straight pipe could do much better with a real exhaust system. The bottom line here is what ever makes you happy is ok with me.. but the facts are the facts.. understanding what is being presented requires some advanced knowledge in the subject.. Ive been doing this for 40 years and did not get my two degree from under an Oak tree.
The information I give here freely is not meant to be argumentative. Its just meant to be informative with the option to take it or leave it.. I will happily discuss any differences of option in Private message..
I hope my information is valuable to some members here as it has been over the last 18 years.
Bill aka ET
My 04 stick vert had the "dime" size diameter H-pipe. No regrets swapping for a MF X-pipe.
Easy. X pipe more HP and sounds WAY better. No question.
I went from exhaust cutouts w/ the stock h-pipe to a proper Borla exhaust with an x-pipe and the sound improvement is like night and day. I don't think C5s should sound like an old pickup without a muffler.
Take 20 inch wheels... Some like them but the real problem is not the wheel, ( well it is if they are cheap and you want to avoid bending them ) its the tire. Given a 20 inch wheel reduces the side wall of tire fitted for 20's on a Corvette, what is does is break down the road absorption factor.. in slow motion a 20 or 25 aspect ratio tire will bottom out to the rim on most post holes rail road tracks and road hazards... leaving the wheel extremely susceptible to being bent. Running cheap wheels with 20 or 25 aspect ratio tires is formula for disaster.Everything is a trade off.
The information I give here freely is not meant to be argumentative. Its just meant to be informative with the option to take it or leave it.. I will happily discuss any differences of option in Private message..
I hope my information is valuable to some members here as it has been over the last 18 years.
Bill aka ET
Not to be argumentative but no one offers a 20 aspect ratio in any tire diameter. Some tire sizes are offered in a 25 aspect ratio but very few.