pjdbm

I read the reviews on this, this thing needs some "modding" before it is even used.

I decided to stay with my miti vac as a bleeder. Did my bleeding last weekend, no problems

Quickshift_C5

What needs modding?

I can absolutely guarantee you the Motive Bleeder does not need to be modified to work on a C5 Corvette.

pjdbm

I was looking to buy this, then read the reviews, they stated that the hose would pop off at around 15 lbs, also said the the hose would kink when tightening the cap, they were adding quick connects to the hose to eliminate this issue.at
at least five people that I read stated brake fluid got all over the engine compartment, I did watch a froggy vid and he mentioned that he does not fill the motive tank with brake fluid and only uses it to pressurize the MC for this very reason.
Just reading the many reviews

Choreo

How would those work? How would you refill MC under pressure with these?

leadfoot4

When you read reviews written by people who aren't too mechanically inclined, that's what you get. First of all, yes, if you don't have a "quick disconnect" fitting inline, you could kink the line. However, if you rotate the Motive tank, as you tighten the cap to the m/c, it won't happen. It IS, however, rather inconvenient to have to do this. Secondly, you do not have to pressurize the m/c much over 8-9 PSI, to get adequate fluid flow. I could easily understand how trying to pump it up to 15 PSI would blow the cap off.....it's only plastic, the m/c reservoir, that is, as well as the Motive cap, unless you get the "premium", aluminum, Motive cap. (which I did)



I believe he means that you can keep the Motive tank under pressure, not the m/c, but in reality, who cares? It takes just about a dozen "strokes" to get the Motive tank back under pressure.......good exercise!

Quickshift_C5

I used the Motive Bleeder just recently on my own car after installing steel braided lines on all corners, and a big 6pot AP Racing brake kit on the front. So, basically flushed the whole system using it dry.. I used it at 15lbs of pressure, but got lazy toward the end and cranked it up to 20lbs. It never leaked, and it never caused a single issue. It worked flawlessly in its original form. It came with 2 rubber seals that you install under the cap, which are different thicknesses. The thinner one wouldn't seal, and slowly bled off the pressure. The thicker one worked perfectly. A big benefit was that my hands were free. Air bubbles had stuck to the insides of the new calipers. All I had to do was pump it up to 20lbs of pressure, crack open the bleed screw, and I was free to whack the calipers a few times with a rubber mallet. Worked like a charm.

When I was sitting there in my chair casually watching the fluid flow through the lines, watching tv in my garage...all I could think about was why I hadn't bought it sooner. Prior to that, I had always took the car to a buddies house and we would tackle it together. I'll never bleed brakes without it again.

A couple of notes: The advice above is good advice. I wouldn't really recommend going over 10psi. You can, and it definitely worked for me, but eh...I would probably do 10psi next time. What's the rush anyway, right? Also, test the seal before actually start opening brake lines and leaving it unattended. This should be common sense, but I feel that's where the others messed up. We tested the lines, seal, and cylinder for leaks up to 20psi before leaving it alone. That's how we found the thinner seal slowly leaking. We used the thicker one after that. It was a tight seal, but not enough effort to cause any damage to the master cylinder plastic threads.

Pounder

I used mine per the instructions, filled it to the fill line, put in required air pressure and did my Vette doing the Tech 2 auto bleed !!! All I had to do is add a little air during the bleed (extensive), never had a leak, no issues what so ever and cleaned it per instructions using alcohol !!!!

pjdbm

I will have to reconsider this again, my Mityvac worked but would rather do this with free hands and with more ease.

I just replaced all my brake fluid and bleed all the lines last week.

How much is this thing with the better aluminum top?

Nowanker

OK, I'm biased, as I have a pretty close relationship with the Motive guys.
But if you use it per the instructions, it works great. Buy an aluminum adapter... it's just a much nicer tool. If you have any issues, call them. Ca time, Eric (or Marco if you can catch him). They are quite personable, helpful, and easy to deal with.
Fill it with fluid to use it, dump it back into the can when you're done. Or just leave it in the bleeder... I can't bring myself to do that, but their little brake fluid moisture tester shows no degradation. Ask them about any possible degradation issues with the Tygon hoses too.

breakskeet

Used my Motive dry as well last night for the first time as well. Just checked the brake fluid reservoir after each caliper and made sure it was topped off each time. So much easier this way. Used less fluid and no clean up afterwards. Worked perfectly.

I also had a leak at the fitting once when I was bleeding the brakes on my other car. Luckily I caught it quickly or it would have been a nightmare. Only empty for me from now on.

leadfoot4

Nowanker

I just spoke with my buds at Motive...
Please allow me to correct some statements!
Storing brake fluid in the bleeder for long periods (weeks?) is not recommended.
The Tygon hose is brake fluid resistant, not brake fluid proof. It is the best material they could find that is transparent, flexible and BF resistant.
My apologies for the misinformation!
On a side note, any spilled brake fluid on the bodywork? douche it (quickly) with water... unlike battery acid, it does take time to eat the paint.

feeder82

i have both the motive with the alum. cap is by far the easier to use.

CamarosRus

I am a rookie at using the Harbor Freight (Mity-Vac) Hand Operated Vacumn pump to bleed
my 2012 Grand Sport Calipers (just powder coated)

I am uncomfortable not knowing what I'm looking for in terms of air bubbles, air movement
thru the clear plastic hose

IF I buy the Motive tank and pressurize my MC then bleed into catch bottle is it
more easy to tell when the air is no longer present.....

And............then what about bleeding the ABS tank/system as I dont have a Tech2
tool ....How neccessary is this ??????????

Chuck Auburn,WA

Bill Curlee

A while back, I found this Tech 2 Pathing document. Its a PDF file.

Its a convenient way to figure out what you need to do to go where you want to go to do what you need to do!

Take a look.. The left column is what you want to do. If you read from right to left, it details what windows to open to get there.

https://gsi.ext.gm.com/userguides/GM_Tech2_Paths.pdf


https://srs20assets.service-solution.../TL_Sept05.pdf

It sure helps me figure it out!

Bill

Bill Curlee

Chuck

You can bleed the C5 system with the power bleeder. Just follow the GM instructions on which wheel to bleed First, Second, Third and then last. The very small circuit inside the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) only holds a tiny bit of fluid.

If you suck out as much old brake fluid of the MC as you can, and then refill with new fluid and then bleed all four wheels, you will be fine.

If you activate the antilock brakes after the fluid refresh and bleed, the EBTCM and BPMV will activate the solenoids and new fluid will circulate into the pump and BPMV circuits.

If you feel energetic and want to make sure that all the fluid is new, you can do the whole process over again!

NOTE,,This works with the ole :have some one press and release the brake peddle bleed method: If you purchase a spare caliper bleeder fitting, you can drill out the bottom of the bleed fitting. Just drill a very small hole in the fitting bottom. Insert the drilled out bleeder fitting snuggly into the caliper. Attach a small short piece of clear tubing to the drilled out fitting.
Insert the end of the tubing into a small container with clean brake fluid in it so the hose end is submerged in the fluid.
When you bleed the caliper, you will see the old fluid enter the container along with any bubbles. When you see fresh fluid and no more bubbles, that brake line and the caliper is done.
Between each brake peddle press and release, just pinch the hose shut with your fingers to prevent the system from sucking old fluid back in from the bleeder.

Bill

seattle

I have owned a Motive unit for somewhere around 10-15 years. I bought the upgrade aluminum cap and I put fluid in the Motive tank. I pressurize no more than 10 psi. I have the stock bleeder screws on the calipers. It works great.
About 5 years ago I did have a problem while I was bleeding my Mercedes. The clear tubing broke under pressure and made a mess which I immediately cleaned up and hosed off. I attributed this failure to the age of the tubing, my lack of cleaning out the tank properly after using it and the Arizona heat. I replaced the tubing with clear vinyl tubing from Ace hardware and I now do a better job of cleaning the tank afterwards. I’ll make sure to replace the tubing every few years.

Redneck Slim

Stahlbus one-man bleeder valves: the easy way.

Vetteman Jack

Moved to C5 Tech.

CamarosRus

I used my new MOTIVE Pressure Bleeder in the Dry configuration as written above.
Not knowing what to expect, it took alot (uncounted) of pumps to obtain 15PSI.
I opened each bleeder valve with clear hose I had (from Harbor Freight suction
tool) running into capped bottle with brake fluid filling bottom third.
When air bubbles stopped I closed valve and went to next.

I spoke with Mark at Motive on 5/20/19. He said each 5PSI of tank pressure takes
approx 20 strokes of the pump.

Chuck Auburn,WA