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My 2000 has 86000 on it. The balancer is starting to wobble just a little. Looks like rubber is starting to come out. You can't move it yet. I mostly do around town driving. Is this something I need to fix asap or do I have some time. Will it come apart suddenly or what can I expect.:
Last edited by namvet6869; Jul 30, 2017 at 08:41 PM.
If it were mine I'd replace it right now. It's shaking, and transmitting that vibrational energy into all belt driven accessories, pulleys, idlers... and your crankshaft.
The balancer is what prevents the rotating apparatus from self destructing, If that balancer lets go, it could destroy your motor. there are two failure modes, one is the bolt backing out and the balancer sliding back and forth. the other failure mode is the 3 part balancer can delaminate and the elastomer that hold the inner and outer together start to disintegrate.,,, when chunks of rubber ( elastomer )start comi9ng off, it could go any second.
Mine started to wobble last month and the belt jumped a pulley grove. The sharp edge cut a nice strip out of the belt. That strip destroyed my hood liner, cut the wires to the ABS and Active handling, and throttle body. This all happened in less than a minute.
Thanks much for the quick replies. I am pretty good at wrenching but I do not know if I want to tackle this project. Looks like big bucks to get it fixed. No wonder the price was down when I bought it from dealer 8 months ago. But when I get this fixed it should be in good shape.
There are much easier projects you can tackle, but it's really not that bad if you take your time and have the right tools. I did my '99 almost two years ago, it took me about 4 hours. Mine never showed any sign of wobble, it let go all at once and the outer ring hit the steering rack. Luckily I was less than 300' from the end of my driveway. I wouldn't put it off if I were you.
4hrs is a pretty low estimate in reality. You should be removing the starter to lock the flywheel as these require 240ftlbs to be applied. While a stick car you MIGHT be able to get it tight while leaving it in gear - it still might slip the clutch and its 100% undoable on an auto car. This means pulling the exhaust too etc. locating a proper puller also took some time along with toying with the attachments.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
NCM Member '09
A good puller/installer that worked for me was a Lisle 53760. I used a 3/4 impact, and worked it back and forth a little at a time to keep from snapping it off in the crank snout. (flywheel locked).
I used an ATI balancer (overkill) and an ARP bolt. Good time to inspect/replace idlers/tensioners and belts.
i am waiting on two shops to get back with me one with $1007 from an outfit that does mustangs and corvettes, and the other has an estimate of $1288, with a 2 year, 24000 mile warranty. am thinking i might use their services. This is with a PowerBond P/N PB1117SS racing balancer, and a ARP-234-2503 bolt. plus replacing the front crankshaft seal, and a complete inspection of all rotating parts there in the immediate area.
Last edited by cherokee433FL; Aug 1, 2017 at 08:13 PM.
Reason: left out info
Very important to replace the crank seal. Its also vey important to use a torque angle gauge and NOT a torque wrench.
There are three types of procedures used for torqueing: torque to yield/angle to turn; torque to maximum stretch yield; and torque to a specific torque number and hope it's correct.
The factory spec for this is using a torque angle gauge. Not a torque wrench.
Just some FYI. For a component that if not done correctly, can easily destroy your motor. There is only one right way to do anything.
One other thought, if this was brain sugary would you be looking for a guy willing to try to fix it for half the price that shops get every day for doing quality service.. I would no more shop a brain surgeon then I would a qualitied mechanic based on price.
Last edited by Evil-Twin; Aug 1, 2017 at 09:19 PM.
Very important to replace the crank seal. Its also vey important to use a torque angle gauge and NOT a torque wrench.
There are three types of procedures used for torqueing: torque to yield/angle to turn; torque to maximum stretch yield; and torque to a specific torque number and hope it's correct.
The factory spec for this is using a torque angle gauge. Not a torque wrench.
Just some FYI. For a component that if not done correctly, can easily destroy your motor. There is only one right way to do anything.
One other thought, if this was brain sugary would you be looking for a guy willing to try to fix it for half the price that shops get every day for doing quality service.. I would no more shop a brain surgeon then I would a qualitied mechanic based on price.
Correction.. no know the GM spec and answered with an assumpt I n.. I WAS WRONG.. IM man enough to admit it. I apologize... An Arp balancer bolt has a specific torque spec.( 247 ft lbs. ) As mentioned. T hr Arp bolt is 35 dollars and can take 200.000 lbs of pressure. The GM bolt is 8 dollars and a one time only bolt.
Again I apologize for assuming too much I was blinded by my own GM Training. But still not an excuse .
Bill aha ET
Last edited by Evil-Twin; Aug 2, 2017 at 08:11 AM.
The ARP bolt is not a torque to yield stretch bolt and is therefore reusable (not that I would) , but it's way better and you torque to their specs - not angle torque to yield.
You WILL need to replace the seal and have the correct tool to center the seal correctly.
IT's not expensive, but required.
The powerbond SS series is very nice.. Step up from the regular one for not much more money.
When manufacturers give a rotation spec, they give an inititial torque valve (for example 10 ft/lbs) just to make sure the bolt is seated, usually very low. Then they give the rotation (180 degrees for example) because they know, that no matter if the bolt is rusty, clean or oily, or a new or used ARP bolt that 180 degrees will give the same clamping force, no matter what.
The ARP bolt is not a torque to yield stretch bolt and is therefore reusable (not that I would) , but it's way better and you torque to their specs - not angle torque to yield.
You WILL need to replace the seal and have the correct tool to center the seal correctly.
IT's not expensive, but required.
The powerbond SS series is very nice.. Step up from the regular one for not much more money.
Correction.. no know the GM spec and answered with an assumpt I n.. I WAS WRONG.. IM man enough to admit it. I apologize... An Arp balancer bolt has a specific torque spec.( 247 ft lbs. ) As mentioned. T hr Arp bolt is 35 dollars and can take 200.000 lbs of pressure. The GM bolt is 8 dollars and a one time only bolt.
Again I apologize for assuming too much I was blinded by my own GM Training. But still not an excuse .
Bill aha ET
Thanks!
That was my assumption, and I knew you were the guy to ask!
balancer
