So, my 1999 Corvette has been parked in my garage since May 2013 and I am just now getting it on the road again.

I bought insurance Friday, then got a 3 day temporary pass so I can drive it to the emissions test shop.

I was airing up the tires getting ready to go then saw the check engine light.

I pulled the codes and it looks like a oxygen sensor. Code P0161 with a history and a current.

I don't remember the check engine light when I parked it.

Could it be from sitting and/or old gas in the tank?

I am aware if I reset the code and drive to the emissions test place it may say "not ready"

I need to get it to pass emissions so I can get it registered and start driving it.

I also have a new coolant tank and belts on the way from amazon and rock auto, plan to flush the coolant all out at same time, change oil, oil filter and air filter.

Should I reset it and see if that code comes back, or just plan on doing oxygen sensor?

 

Its a DIFFICULT decision.

IF, you reset the DTCs, you will force all the Emissions READY flags to report NOT READY. It will NOT pass in that condition!!
When that happens, you must put DRIVE CYCLES into the car get them to reset back to READY. The drive cycles take a while to complete as you have to get the car up to temp and them let it cool down several times.

You can try and drive it and see if getting the O2 sensors HOT will clear things up. The problem is, It may really be a bad sensor.

The DTC that got set was a O2 Sensor HEATER CIRCUIT performance Bank 2 Sensor 2 Check engine compartment fuse box OXYSEN Fuse #8 which powers the heater circuit.

On TOP of the fuse are TWO small test slots. Turn the ignition to RUN/ON and use a DC Volt meter and read both of those TEST POINTS to chassis ground. You "SHOULD" see full battery voltage on both test slots. IF, you see something a LOT LESS than full battery voltage, your IGNITION SWITCH is causing then voltage to be LOW and effecting the heater output for that sensor.

You can also try to cycle the ignition switch ON & OFF On & OFF several times to make a better contact inside the switch.

ALSO, MAKE SURE that your battery is FULLY CHARGED!

Check that and get back to me.

You can also jack up the car and actually FEEL the body of the O2 Sensor/s after the ignition has been on for several minutes. The sensor body should be VERY WARM or HOT . If it is COLD, you have a BAD SENSOR!



PM me if you need to call and discuss the issue.

Bill

 

Awesome information Bill!

I think you just mentioned what could be the issue, before I started it I checked oil and coolant levels and tested the battery voltage at battery terminals with no key in the car.

It was 12.1 volts.

I had the battery charged and tested and it failed at Oreilly auto parts, was planning on buying a new battery anyways just got excited about getting it street legal to drive!

So the battery may be the issue.

I will replace it and try the trick to see if the O2 sensor warms up.

 

Can use this tool from autozone's loan a tool program, buy it then return it. I like the idea it tells the OBD2 Ready status.

 

Another way to FAIL Emissions is to "disconnect the battery"

It will set the same emissions NOT READY flags.

SO, when you get the new battery all properly connected, MAKE SURE that you CLEAR ALL THE DTCs.

Hooking up the battery 9 times out of 10 trips random DTCs.

Hopefully, that will resolve all of your issues.

Bill

 

I ended up buying a new battery at Costco, a Interstate 1000 amp 800 CCA and 110 reserve capacity, exactly the same as the AC Delco.

82.99 plus tax

Then got that scanner at autozone.

Will try it out.

 

So it pulled the same code and had a red light, cleared code now it shows a yellow light.

Apparently green light means ready, yellow means not all systems ready, and red means a fault.

I will put in the new battery and try driving it tomorrow and see what color light it gives.

Would drive tonight but I think I might get a ticket since that 3 day pass is supposed to be for travel to smog inspection, repair shop, or DMV in normal business hours.

 

Dropping from 55 mph to 20 mph by coasting in gear sounds like a bad idea unless there was a place where other vehicles would not be driving.

 

I checked Arizona's website and it looks like you can pass with one emission flag not reporting ready. From their website:

Also related to the OBD II system are “Readiness Monitors”. Monitors are not physical devices, but rather programs within the on-board computer(s) that relay to the technician if an emission device or system is not ready for testing. A vehicle will be rejected from emissions testing if: on 1996-2000 model year vehicles, more than two monitors are reporting a not ready state or more than one monitor on 2001 or newer models. For more information on Readiness Monitors, see OBD Monitors.

 

Do you still have the H and or C on the O2 sensor DTC???

 

I reset that code with that scanner last night, right now I'm changing the oil and then will put in the new battery and will check.

I still have not driven in the car other than moving out of the garage to driveway to wash, air up tires and change oil.

 

So it failed the OBD test as it wasn't ready, they didn't charge me, and gave me the option of pulling into the roller bay to do the tail pipe sniffer test.

I did, 2 people had trouble trying to get it going, grinding my gears and stalling it, then another person asked if it had traction control and I said yes and turned it off for them.

They raced it for a short time and then tested the gas cap, passed the sniffer test!

The best part it's only 17.00 for the test.

Drove to DMV and lucked out after smog test, was in and out in 10 minutes, I figured 5 hours.

They have a self help kiosk that spits out your registration and new tag sticker.

Bad news is A/C is not working ac light flashes, probably leaked out the R134a, it was 108-110 according to corvette and I was soaking with sweat, but at least it's smogged and registered now.

Almost put the convertible top down, but the Arizona sun is pretty brutal and it would have been even hotter.

I'll dig into AC tomorrow.

 

This was in the bay where they do OBD test.

Took video of car on rollers, but don't see a option to upload a video.

 

Purchase a refil can of R134 and see if just adding a can will get her back on line.

See if you can find R134 with OIL. If you cant, just add the straight R134 or R134 with florcent Dye so you can check for leaks later.

Make SURE that you add it to the low pressure (SUCTION) side of the system and make sure tht you keep the can fill valve UP so you are adding GAS and not liquid R134.

If you put the can in a small bucket of HOT water, it will make the process go a LOT faster as the liquid will turn into GAS faster.

Bill

 

Update I got the A/C recharged, it was almost flat.

No dye or oil as I already have automotive R134a gauges and a tank of R134A.

What I get for letting it sit in the garage, maybe running it now will help it from leaking out.

 

So I charged A/C on Saturday and took my gf for her first ride, then on Monday cycling the distilled water through the block and radiator I tried turning on A/C and the light on button flashed again, probably leaked out after 2 days, have yet to put gauges on it.

Tonight took gf for 2nd ride, only with top down, gas tank full, topped off on Saturday'a ride and gauge read 3/4 as I was backing out of garage.

It then went back to full, check engine light came on.

Going to go pull code now.

 

So, I guess it's that oxygen sensor after all.

Will hurt to drive the car on my road trip like that? I want to fix it but not sure I will have time.

Will it make the car run rich?

 

The engine will most likely not be as efficient as it should be when its in closed loop cursing.

So, YES, it will most likely be richer than it should be. Use the scanner and look at the O2 sensor PRIMARY Bank 1 & PRIMARY Bank 2

Compare the outputs of both sensors. If they are both oscillating high low high low,, you will most likely be fine.

If the one with the failed heater is cycling less, then it cant properly do the fine tuning on the AFR for that bank.

Bill

 

I returned that scanner to Autozone, it was the loan a tool program.

Should I still feel to see if the sensor gets warm with key on and other tests?

Found a cheap sensor at rock auto for about 1/3 the price range at autozone.