Ok this is something that I have not read about by anyone else on here. Several months ago I replaced the driver's side window motor. When removing the switches panel from the door I cracked it because the stupid YouTube video showed prying it up from the front instead of the rear. On the Z06 it is the opposite of a base model C5. How was I to know this?!? Regardless I ordered a new switch panel and replaced it a week later. After about 2-3 weeks of occasional driving, one day it began throwing all kinds of dashboard warnings. Simultaneously none of the driver's switches (or buttons) were working. However the passenger side buttons did lock the doors and lower the passenger window. I pulled the driver's side switch panel out, disconnected it, and reconnected. Turned the car back on and no codes and all of the buttons were working again. I concluded that it must have been a bad connection but it's very strange that a disconnected window switch panel could throw codes such as REDUCED ENGINE POWER, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, and LOW FUEL. Everything has been fine for the past month of occasional driving it. Yesterday I was driving it again and when I got to my church the driver's window wouldn't roll up. None of the buttons were working again. I decided not to worry about it and got out but the key fob also wouldn't lock the doors or set the alarm. I pried out the driver's side switch panel again and disconnected and reconnected it. It immediately began throwing those codes again but this time after turning the car off and back on, the switch panel still wasn't working. However the codes went away. So I drove it home later after church was over and about a mile down the road it began throwing all of those codes again, but everything runs fine. It is obvious that the codes and the buttons not working are related to a bad connection or something in that wiring harness but I can't get it to work now. Any suggestions? It's only a 17k mile car that has been garaged 99% of it's life. The chance for corrosion seems very low to me.

 

I just did exactly the same thing with the switch after watching the same YouTube video lol. I doubt the switch would cause those codes. Did you get the one off of eBay for $79.99? I hope that’s not something I have to look forward to. Did you pull the actual codes on the DIC?
Damnit 8VETTE7 types faster than me.

 

This is why I dont prefer modern cars. There is absolutely no reason to have door switches wired to a computer.

 

Thanks 8VETTE7 but I went to that thread and read through it. It says something about a 5th pic but I only see one pic and none of them with a black connector.

 

There has been a little confusion here. 8vette7's link goes back to my original post #21. If you scroll to #22 the link gets you to Bill Curlee's post, that's where you look for the 5th picture, but 8vette7 did attach the correct picture later.

I did have similar symptoms to yours and this fixed the problem for me. Good Luck.