Has anyone tried ebay longtube headers less than $300?
#41
Drifting
Here ya go my tuner's dyno is real stingy, but with only a cheap $50 ram horn twin cone intake (stock piece broke, so I was compromising) and the OBX headers, I went from 273whp base line, to 319whp tuned.
The car now has a Callaway Honker intake, and Corsa Extremes out back. I noticed quite a notable jump all over the RPM range when I went to the Honker, but never retuned (waiting to do more engine work first), so I'm sure it has broken the 320 range.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ll-review.html
The car now has a Callaway Honker intake, and Corsa Extremes out back. I noticed quite a notable jump all over the RPM range when I went to the Honker, but never retuned (waiting to do more engine work first), so I'm sure it has broken the 320 range.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ll-review.html
#42
Burning Brakes
I'm pleased with my XS Power headers. I bought them 3 years ago, and I've had them on and off the car a few times now with no issues. I just had to dimple the primary for steering shaft clearance, but it was really minor and seems to apply to most headers. Car put down 440 whp with heads and cam through these headers...I'm not sure what I gave up by going "cheap".
The following 2 users liked this post by DetroitPlac:
ArmchairArchitect (11-02-2017),
Pounder (11-02-2017)
#44
Burning Brakes
Livernois Stage 3 243 heads (CNC'd, milled slightly, larger valves)
GM MLS gaskets
BTR Stage 2 cam 227/234 .614"/.576" 113+2
Stock LS6 intake manifold and TB
XS Power LT Headers with Catted x-pipe
Blackwing Intake
I think a lot of the magic is in the heads. They're Livernois craziest, and they flow like mad up top. The car is actually pretty tame below 4k rpm, but when it winds up, it's frantic. Almost scary. Combined with 4.10 gears, it's bonkers.
I've driven C5 and C6 Z06's, along with LT1 C7's. My car has a completely different character. None pull like mine up top.
Though, if I could do it over again, I might have picked a slightly smaller cam like a Cam Motion Titan 3 (224/228 .603"/.595" 113+4) to shift the power band a bit lower. I would have given up some of the top end, but gained in the bottom. It's fun to watch people's reaction when I tell them the dyno number, and the thing screams, but I'd like the power to be a bit more usable.
The following 2 users liked this post by DetroitPlac:
ErikwithAK01 (11-03-2017),
Pounder (11-02-2017)
#45
Melting Slicks
#46
Drifting
It is not hard at all to crack 450whp from a 346. 400whp can be made with bolt on's and JUST heads; I have seen it done by AI.
I guess I really just don't understand the curious way you worded your sentence. I can't figure out what you are trying to convey.
I guess I really just don't understand the curious way you worded your sentence. I can't figure out what you are trying to convey.
Last edited by ErikwithAK01; 11-02-2017 at 01:35 PM.
#47
Melting Slicks
#48
1/4 mile/AutoX
#49
Burning Brakes
Totally.
The power is there, but it's more up high. Which is fun in it's own right...more sportscarey. That's where the more aggressive gears make up a lot of the difference.
Honestly, my "tiny" 5.7 with decent engine parts, rear gears and cheap chinese headers (brining the thread back on track!) has more character than anything with more displacement. I love my car.
The power is there, but it's more up high. Which is fun in it's own right...more sportscarey. That's where the more aggressive gears make up a lot of the difference.
Honestly, my "tiny" 5.7 with decent engine parts, rear gears and cheap chinese headers (brining the thread back on track!) has more character than anything with more displacement. I love my car.
#50
Drifting
Ah, I get ya now. That is all well and good, but I'm not gonna go outta my way to drop $7500+ for an LS3 when I can put $3800 in my LS1, make notably more power, and build for reliability. I am aware that the seriously competitive race cars all eventually go big inch motor, but I don't have the scratch yet :/
I would love to drop a 515 horse crate LS3 in my vette, then swap out the inline 6 in my jeep for the LS1 in the vette but that is a few years down the road I think
I would love to drop a 515 horse crate LS3 in my vette, then swap out the inline 6 in my jeep for the LS1 in the vette but that is a few years down the road I think
Last edited by ErikwithAK01; 11-03-2017 at 05:59 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Roddy13 (11-03-2017)
#51
Melting Slicks
Ah, I get ya now. That is all well and good, but I'm not gonna go outta my way to drop $7500+ for an LS3 when I can put $3800 in my LS1, make almost the same power, and build for reliability. I am aware that the seriously competitive race cars all eventually go big inch motor, but I don't have the scratch yet :/
I would love to drop a 515 horse crate LS3 in my vette, then swap out the inline 6 in my jeep for the LS1 in the vette but that is a few years down the road I think
I would love to drop a 515 horse crate LS3 in my vette, then swap out the inline 6 in my jeep for the LS1 in the vette but that is a few years down the road I think
#52
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: altered state
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St. Jude Donor '05
A ding in the header wont hurt anything; if you double up a towel, lay a BIG socket on its side and, with a bfh strike it at a slight angle you can make clearance where its hardly noticeabe. Better than the end of a ball peen hammer (looks wise)
Keep us posted! China makes good and bad stuff
Think vette exh is a ripoff myself
#53
Drifting
I would REALLY like to find out how you pulled off a built LS7 under $7500. That is half the price of a crate engine.
It's gonna cost me almost 4k just in parts alone to build my ls1 for a track reliable 430 wheel. I am not just doing heads and a cam. I'm putting an ATI damper in it (another $450 alone) as well as better lifters, 3/8" pushrods, a fixed belt tensioner, better water pump, Melling oil pump, a split timing case, C5R timing chain, ARP hardware for the crank and heads, and a Straub rocker bearing upgrade, all for the sake of reliability, and yes I do my own labor. I can't imagine it would be worth my while to buy an LS7 or L92 block, and build it up myself. The cost/perfromance benefit is just not there for me. Not when I have a perfectly capable engine already in the car.
A new LS7 block is over $3200 alone, and good condition pull outs are still over $10,000. PLUS, I would still have to replace the heads on it for fear of dropping a valve on the track, so tack on some more fkr that as well. At that point, I will have spent more on my powertrain, than what I spent on the car, and that just doesn't make any logical sense to me.
It's gonna cost me almost 4k just in parts alone to build my ls1 for a track reliable 430 wheel. I am not just doing heads and a cam. I'm putting an ATI damper in it (another $450 alone) as well as better lifters, 3/8" pushrods, a fixed belt tensioner, better water pump, Melling oil pump, a split timing case, C5R timing chain, ARP hardware for the crank and heads, and a Straub rocker bearing upgrade, all for the sake of reliability, and yes I do my own labor. I can't imagine it would be worth my while to buy an LS7 or L92 block, and build it up myself. The cost/perfromance benefit is just not there for me. Not when I have a perfectly capable engine already in the car.
A new LS7 block is over $3200 alone, and good condition pull outs are still over $10,000. PLUS, I would still have to replace the heads on it for fear of dropping a valve on the track, so tack on some more fkr that as well. At that point, I will have spent more on my powertrain, than what I spent on the car, and that just doesn't make any logical sense to me.
#54
Burning Brakes
I would REALLY like to find out how you pulled off a built LS7 under $7500. That is half the price of a crate engine.
It's gonna cost me almost 4k just in parts alone to build my ls1 for a track reliable 430 wheel. I am not just doing heads and a cam. I'm putting an ATI damper in it (another $450 alone) as well as better lifters, 3/8" pushrods, a fixed belt tensioner, better water pump, Melling oil pump, a split timing case, C5R timing chain, ARP hardware for the crank and heads, and a Straub rocker bearing upgrade, all for the sake of reliability, and yes I do my own labor. I can't imagine it would be worth my while to buy an LS7 or L92 block, and build it up myself. The cost/perfromance benefit is just not there for me. Not when I have a perfectly capable engine already in the car.
A new LS7 block is over $3200 alone, and good condition pull outs are still over $10,000. PLUS, I would still have to replace the heads on it for fear of dropping a valve on the track, so tack on some more fkr that as well. At that point, I will have spent more on my powertrain, than what I spent on the car, and that just doesn't make any logical sense to me.
It's gonna cost me almost 4k just in parts alone to build my ls1 for a track reliable 430 wheel. I am not just doing heads and a cam. I'm putting an ATI damper in it (another $450 alone) as well as better lifters, 3/8" pushrods, a fixed belt tensioner, better water pump, Melling oil pump, a split timing case, C5R timing chain, ARP hardware for the crank and heads, and a Straub rocker bearing upgrade, all for the sake of reliability, and yes I do my own labor. I can't imagine it would be worth my while to buy an LS7 or L92 block, and build it up myself. The cost/perfromance benefit is just not there for me. Not when I have a perfectly capable engine already in the car.
A new LS7 block is over $3200 alone, and good condition pull outs are still over $10,000. PLUS, I would still have to replace the heads on it for fear of dropping a valve on the track, so tack on some more fkr that as well. At that point, I will have spent more on my powertrain, than what I spent on the car, and that just doesn't make any logical sense to me.
$4k for an LS1 build is very realistic. I got my heads on craigslist, and still spent nearly $4k on everything (heads, cam, oil pump, injectors, etc ,etc, etc). You don't want to cut corners, especially if the car's going to see track time.
#55
Burning Brakes
Wow.....how bout Cyclones? Tighten the bolt you could watch that flange bend in front of you
A ding in the header wont hurt anything; if you double up a towel, lay a BIG socket on its side and, with a bfh strike it at a slight angle you can make clearance where its hardly noticeabe. Better than the end of a ball peen hammer (looks wise)
Keep us posted! China makes good and bad stuff
Think vette exh is a ripoff myself
A ding in the header wont hurt anything; if you double up a towel, lay a BIG socket on its side and, with a bfh strike it at a slight angle you can make clearance where its hardly noticeabe. Better than the end of a ball peen hammer (looks wise)
Keep us posted! China makes good and bad stuff
Think vette exh is a ripoff myself
#56
Melting Slicks
Stainless is corrosion resistant, not corrosion proof, and even quality stainless has to be properly passivated to perform well. Working the surface with the wrong tools, such as a plain wire brush or grinder, can leave bits of corrosion prone iron in the surface to act as a point of propagation.
#58
Melting Slicks
I would REALLY like to find out how you pulled off a built LS7 under $7500. That is half the price of a crate engine.
It's gonna cost me almost 4k just in parts alone to build my ls1 for a track reliable 430 wheel. I am not just doing heads and a cam. I'm putting an ATI damper in it (another $450 alone) as well as better lifters, 3/8" pushrods, a fixed belt tensioner, better water pump, Melling oil pump, a split timing case, C5R timing chain, ARP hardware for the crank and heads, and a Straub rocker bearing upgrade, all for the sake of reliability, and yes I do my own labor. I can't imagine it would be worth my while to buy an LS7 or L92 block, and build it up myself. The cost/perfromance benefit is just not there for me. Not when I have a perfectly capable engine already in the car.
A new LS7 block is over $3200 alone, and good condition pull outs are still over $10,000. PLUS, I would still have to replace the heads on it for fear of dropping a valve on the track, so tack on some more fkr that as well. At that point, I will have spent more on my powertrain, than what I spent on the car, and that just doesn't make any logical sense to me.
It's gonna cost me almost 4k just in parts alone to build my ls1 for a track reliable 430 wheel. I am not just doing heads and a cam. I'm putting an ATI damper in it (another $450 alone) as well as better lifters, 3/8" pushrods, a fixed belt tensioner, better water pump, Melling oil pump, a split timing case, C5R timing chain, ARP hardware for the crank and heads, and a Straub rocker bearing upgrade, all for the sake of reliability, and yes I do my own labor. I can't imagine it would be worth my while to buy an LS7 or L92 block, and build it up myself. The cost/perfromance benefit is just not there for me. Not when I have a perfectly capable engine already in the car.
A new LS7 block is over $3200 alone, and good condition pull outs are still over $10,000. PLUS, I would still have to replace the heads on it for fear of dropping a valve on the track, so tack on some more fkr that as well. At that point, I will have spent more on my powertrain, than what I spent on the car, and that just doesn't make any logical sense to me.
I don't know where you get all that pricing from but when you overpay for parts of course you budget will be out of control.
You can probably build an "LS7" out of an L92 somehow. But there's no way it's happening for under $10k. $7k is fantasyland unless you steal all the parts or something.
$4k for an LS1 build is very realistic. I got my heads on craigslist, and still spent nearly $4k on everything (heads, cam, oil pump, injectors, etc ,etc, etc). You don't want to cut corners, especially if the car's going to see track time.
$4k for an LS1 build is very realistic. I got my heads on craigslist, and still spent nearly $4k on everything (heads, cam, oil pump, injectors, etc ,etc, etc). You don't want to cut corners, especially if the car's going to see track time.
Cheaping out and building to a goal level is different, I won't be running pro stock so there's no need to build a $50K engine.
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gpruitt54 (02-02-2018)
#60
Melting Slicks
Seems to happen a lot here. I'm partially to blame. If anyone wants to keep up the argument you can go over to my build thread and comment there.