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I have the F45 package on mine. It was fully lowered on stock bolts when I bought it. I did not like the rear down look and I found the rear suspension way too soft, much softer than the front when stepping over bumps. Very loose coming off corners. The rear would bottom out very hard over dips in the road.
Somewhere, I found posts that said for best handling on the C5, the rear should be .2 to 1/4 inch higher in the rear than the front, measured at points on the frame.
That is what I shot for, raising the rear while leaving the front where it was. I cut a 2x4 for a measuring block that would just slide under the frame at the jacking point in the front and then ended up raising the rear first 3 turns and then 2 more full turns on the ride height bolts and eyeballed a quarter of an inch at the rear jacking points.
With the F45 suspension the difference in ride and handling was nothing short of amazing. The front and rear now step over bumps just about the same. No more bottoming out of the rear suspension on any dips or holes. No more loosey goosey coming off the corners. Very neutral from the apex off while on the gas. No more secondary bunny hops from the rear suspension. I doubt I'll ever change the ride height again. YMMV, just MHO.
I was wondering why the front bumper looks so high off the ground. Why is your spoiler removed?
In the earlier pictures I had the sides removed & the center was flush to my Fangs & the car would at low speeds run between the 200-230, I then ordered a new center section & cut it to be 1" below the fangs & now car runs 190-200, my sides have been off the car since I bought it in 2010.
At my current ride height, only issue I have had is leaving my driveway, if I go too fast my fangs hit.
I have the F45 package on mine. It was fully lowered on stock bolts when I bought it. I did not like the rear down look and I found the rear suspension way too soft, much softer than the front when stepping over bumps. Very loose coming off corners. The rear would bottom out very hard over dips in the road.
Somewhere, I found posts that said for best handling on the C5, the rear should be .2 to 1/4 inch higher in the rear than the front, measured at points on the frame.
That is what I shot for, raising the rear while leaving the front where it was. I cut a 2x4 for a measuring block that would just slide under the frame at the jacking point in the front and then ended up raising the rear first 3 turns and then 2 more full turns on the ride height bolts and eyeballed a quarter of an inch at the rear jacking points.
With the F45 suspension the difference in ride and handling was nothing short of amazing. The front and rear now step over bumps just about the same. No more bottoming out of the rear suspension on any dips or holes. No more loosey goosey coming off the corners. Very neutral from the apex off while on the gas. No more secondary bunny hops from the rear suspension. I doubt I'll ever change the ride height again. YMMV, just MHO.
Jim
Thanks Jim. This is exactly what I am going for with mine. So just to confirm your front are all the way down on stock bolts and your rears are 5 full turns higher then the lowest setting?
Mostly about the look, I look at how the rim sits up in the wheel well, how it flows with the shape of the wheel well, or I guess you could say it looks better if the lines of the rim are as close to parallel to the wheel well shape as you can get it. I also think the diameter of the rim will also have an affect on how it looks at different heights.
What is this ‘Super Low’ C5’s you speak of? You mean 4X4’s don’t you! I hated having to get my Rubber Maid step ladder out just to get in this thing!
“You’re scrapping on everything”? Your front spoiler is plastic, and hinged, designed to flex, cheap to replace...nothing to get exited about.
frank
HRE. 545R, 19/20's, Pirelli P Zero's, tubbed, on C/O’s.
I've owned 2 Corvettes in the past few years. When I purchased them they were both lowered with lowering bolts. They also both rode like complete ****. Most people do this for looks. If it's for handling, it's the wrong way to do it.
The car will scrape everything. It will bottom out on the suspension all the time. This could be very dangerous while taking a turn at higher speeds.
I raised both my vettes back up. I turned the stock bolts just a few turns to make it look a little better, while retaining the better ride.
I've owned 2 Corvettes in the past few years. When I purchased them they were both lowered with lowering bolts. They also both rode like complete ****. Most people do this for looks. If it's for handling, it's the wrong way to do it.
The car will scrape everything. It will bottom out on the suspension all the time. This could be very dangerous while taking a turn at higher speeds.
I raised both my vettes back up. I turned the stock bolts just a few turns to make it look a little better, while retaining the better ride.
while on Vacation we stayed at a Condo with secured parking, it had speed bumps that were huge, at crawl speed the C 5 (standard height) bottomed out and scraped. We were afraid of getting hung up !!! Also our C 6 Z slightly lowered scrapes all the time in the sh** streets of Oklahoma City !!!!
lowered mine instantly after purchasing it. previous owner must've really liked the raked hot rod look. no issues personally with scraping since its on stock bolts. they look better lowered IMO
Thanks Jim. This is exactly what I am going for with mine. So just to confirm your front are all the way down on stock bolts and your rears are 5 full turns higher then the lowest setting?
Sorry for the delay. It was either 5 full or 5 half turns, it's been a while. Every time you make an adjustment you have to drive it to let the suspension settle back down. I shot for the rear .2 inch higher than the front measured at the jacking points near the rocker panels. I cut a 2x4 to just clear the front jacking point and then kept adjusting and then going for a drive, and then eyeballed .2 inch at the rear points.
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