While I was waiting for my new tires to be installed at my local Chevy Dealer I asked the parts guy about the cost for replacing the bushings to stop the seat from moving when I apply the brakes. They told me GM has no kit for that. Anyone have any advice?

 

Amazon c5 seat track repair kit $28.80.

 

If you are talking about the rocking seat problem, a number of forum vendors sells kits to stop the movement. Check with vendors like theradioflyer as I bought a set from him.

 

Just to be sure, which one of these 2 problems are you experiencing? Or is it both?

Sliding seat:


Rocking seat:


Besides the problem with the shims, there is also the possibility of 1 or 2 flanges at the rear of the seat track being bent or broken.

This video explains in a very detailed way the replacement process of both, shims and flanges. It might give you the answer you're looking for

 

Mine had the rocking seat problem. I was able to fix it for about $1 worth of nylon washers.

Instructions below...

http://www.lieblweb.com/c5seatfix.html

 

I just completed this job last week, and it's not too bad. I also recommend the Radioflyer bushing kit that comes with enough bushings to do both sides.

Firstly, here's the instructions I followed. It's pretty much right on, but the trick is to make sure the seat is all the way forward and all the way up before removing the harness. That way the lead screws stay aligned.

http://www.lieblweb.com/rockingseatfix.pdf

Secondly, when you get the lead screw out, take the time to clean aluminum block and the lead screw really, really good. Get some brake cleaner and get all of the grease and debris off of both. You want to get some good grease (I used Mobil1) to recoat the entire threaded section of the lead screw. When using the brake cleaner however, try to avoid the bearing area. Just cover that with a rag and leave as is.

Third, I will warn you that the RadioFlyer bushings might be a little tall. I found the thickness, and width was perfect, but I had to trim a little off the top and bottom so that overall the hole was centered, and top sat below the top of the block. I know many others have used washers, etc, but the nice thing about the RF pieces are, there is zero slop. They fit tight to the corners and once set, they are rock solid. You never have to worry about them possibly turning and then hanging up in the rail. Once the bushings are fully seated then install the center nut, evenly spaced side to side.

Once you get each fit correctly, just give the bushings and the nut block a very light coating of grease and reassemble. Watch that you don't loose the spacer in step 14 and 15 from the drive. It sits behind the rail, so be on the lookout.

On reassembly, you you might have to turn the lead screw a tiny bit one way or the other so that the square drive shaft fully seats.

Beyond that, it's pretty easy. Actually the biggest work is just cleaning off the old gunk, so make sure you have plenty of newspaper to spread out.

PS - I do NOT recommend that video above. That includes many more steps than is necessary. And, only do one side at a time, or you might get yourself into a jam. Watch the video for just getting acquainted, but follow the PDF.

 

Mine is the sliding seat. Is easy enough for a novice to do, or might I get myself in trouble?

 

Then it should be just the shims. You should be fine doing this repair, just be careful and follow the procedure. As suggested above, do 1 seat at a time so you can always have the other one to look at in case you need to.