So according to FX VETTE in April of 2019, still not a true bolt in double din trim for a C5...that's sad.

 

I know this thread is Old-ish but it seems to be THE clearinghouse for all things with the VettNuts & DD bezel. I bought their Bezel Kit in Oct '18 and am finally going to install it. I've read everything I could find and there is a TON of good info in this thread. Will be using the ATOTO A6 Pro and Axxess XSVI-2004 adapter.
I have to agree with most here that the plastic brackets are a little flimsy and I didn't get any hardware with them. Does anyone know where to get a similar bracket now that the EBay guy disappeared? I may end up making a knock off of what Mr. Black did but I'd rather buy something already built and made from metal.

But here's my real issue... The clips at the top of the Bezel are in the way and the HU can't move up high enough to fit in the hole. There is a 1/4" gap that the clips are causing. This was discussed earlier in the thread but I didn't see a real answer. The only way to event get it close would be to remove the clips. On VettNuts site they even say to remove them. ...

"We have found that the two plastic tabs on the top of the bezel can cause an interferce when installing the radio. Due to the raising of the head unit upward. We reccomend cutting them off and this will not affect alighment or the bezel staying up against the dash. The screws are what holds it in place."

They are in a bad place. ANY HU to run into them - why are they even there ?? I'm worried that if I remove them the top of the Bezel will have a sloppy fit because its just 'floating' there. Has anyone removed them and had success? Or regrets? Once I cut em there's no turning back. I wanted some opinions from you all before I start cutting things. Thanks for any help here - If I F'd by posting this in an old thread just let me know how to fix it and I will.

 

IIRC I sanded mine down a little so that it was enough it would go in but also at the same time it would still grab the dash properly.

It's not ideal but it's never been a problem either.

 

Thanks Mr B.
I know I'll have to 'clearance' the box area a little. Since I can't fit it from the back (coz of the damn tabs) I tried fitting it to the opening from the front. It Is Close, but no cigar. A fine file and smooth long strokes should give me results. Also gonna glue a piece of TIG rod to the VERY weak area just under the HU. I read that some have broken that - It is breakable!
But did you cut those tabs off the top? Did yours even have tabs? One is shown in the 2nd pic.
Thanks again. This is how I'm starting MY LSA swap. Figured that the console had to come out for Shifter / T-Tube / Clutch so I might as well warm up on a Head Unit. Genius, Right?

 

Tabs are still in place but I sanded them down shorter so they would engage and grab the dash but I didn't make them so thin they would be fragile.

 

Interesting.... I get the idea and like it. But VN says just cut em off. That worries me - coz of 'floating'. Did your HU fit without messing with the tabs or did they cause that gap like in the pics?
BTW - Merry Christmas to you and all the other VERY cool people on this VERY cool forum.

 

When I first tried to put the bezel in place it wouldn't even think about snapping into place. The Pioneer I used fit the opening pretty well with minor sanding. Without moving the head unit around I just sanded those tabs in until it finally snapped into place. I then removed it to see if I could do it without breaking anything which it came back apart fine. Put it together for the final time and haven't been back in there since.

It's tough to see but there is no gap at the top.

 

I too sanded the tabs just enough to fit in, but even with the tabs the R/H upper edge of the bezel is a bit looser to the dash than I would really like. I epoxied some brass rod to the fragile center bar, but it ended up interfering with my overall fit and had to come back off, so now the center bar flexes out -- not too aesthetically pleasing. The VN supplied brackets are crap, plain and simple. Broke the first time the screws were even slightly snugged. I made my own from aluminum angle.

 

"sanded them down shorter"... Their thickness is what is causing the gap - not the length. Did you sand them so they don't stick out so far or to make them thinner.? What are YOUR thoughts on just cutting them off like VN recommends? Your install is super clean and VERY 'Mr Black'. I like your style - very thorough and well thought out. Sometimes TOO much?
Like I said, once they are snipped there ain't no turning back. I find myself in that dilemma WAY too often.
Thanks again

 

Thinner is the correct word. I did not cut them shorter or off.

 

Thanks - I'll F with that tomorrow. Epoxy on the thin plastic area is drying right now. You da MAN!

 

Well, I got it to fit the opening. My Epoxy / Tig Rod came out but I didn't break the flimsy strip below the HU (Yet). I talked with Marc from VN about his bracket. It seems like I have V1 of the 3D printed 2 pc bracket. (I bought the thing in Oct 2018 - no wonder). He is going to send me their latest / greatest rendition of the bracket -now One pc.
He was, as I've read here, VERY service oriented - Cool Guy and very helpful. He told me to just cut the tabs off - So I did. 'Horses Mouth' type of thing - he says they've cut hundreds of them with no issues. Fits perfectly. Had I filed them to make them thinner they would have been paper thin and useless.
Next...
Now I just gotta figure out which wires to solder harness to harness and which to connect to something else. I've read A LOT about the AXXESS unit and there is still questions out there - like the 2 red wires (my instructions say to connect both to the red from the HU - Do you agree?) I assume ALL the speaker wires get direct connect from AXXESS to any HU harness - that seems like a no brainer. Also assuming Yellow (batt) is harness to harness? I'm using the ATOTO A6 PRO (Please don't flame me - it's got a lot of bang for the buck)
Also assume the Camera from AXXESS is unused because that power comes from the car - Right? Are there any other connections that come from the car (dimmer?) and are there any that don't get used at all (power antenna)? AXXESS doesn't seem to care about the Park Brake - only the HU would, right
Thanks for any & all help. (Boy, I sure hope GCG or ANY AXXESS / Audio guru reads this)
All in all - even though its a TON of work - this is a fun hobby and... Love THIS place!!