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A&A Vortech C5 Supercharger Build Thread by Toys4Life C5

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A&A Vortech C5 Supercharger Build Thread by Toys4Life C5

 
Old 08-27-2018, 10:59 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 99blkfrc99 View Post
Live in north metro. East bethel up 65. Like to come check it out sometime. Let me know if you need a driver while tuning. I'd love to help
Appreciate the offer! In the middle of tuning now. My sons have been taking turns holding the laptop while work on getting the 80# injectors in the ballpark as well as the MAF. VE is almost stock as heads and cam are stock.
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Old 08-28-2018, 09:37 AM
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Standard Siemens Deka 80 lb/hr injectors that are an 'upgrade' with the kit? How is the car idling?
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Old 08-28-2018, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by aaronc7 View Post
Standard Siemens Deka 80 lb/hr injectors that are an 'upgrade' with the kit? How is the car idling?
I went with the 80's because I have E85 in MN and have used it on my other Eaton supercharged car for a few years with great success. As you may know, E85 takes about 30% +/- more fuel than gasoline. This is one of the reasons it is referred to as liquid intercooling. Anyways, that might make the Siemens Deka 60s too small at WOT.

The 80 Siemens Deka wont idle at anything above 10.5 - 11 to 1 AFR until you lower the minimum fuel mass (as well as tweak the other injector tables in HP tuners). Then they idle just fine but it is sloppy (fuel trims all over the place as compared to the stock 28lb'rs). I Working on tweaking the injector data supplied by A&A's website just a bit to clean up the idle and just off idle areas. Have you used the S.D. 80's before?

Last edited by Toys4Life C5; 08-28-2018 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 08-28-2018, 10:27 AM
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I'm on the fence between 60s and 80s, but I like the additional headroom, but been worried about driveability otherwise. I have a mildish cam, so that's not gonna help stability either. I'll probably need the 80s since I'll be running a non boost referenced (stock) FPR setup and power goals in mind. I am familiar with the minimum pulsewidth stuff, I have EFIlLive, so it's probably called something different... I think they call it minimum transient pulsewidth. Best answer is probably getting a set of equivalent ID injectors, but I'm scared to even look at the price. Interested to hear your thoughts on how your injectors work at the end of the day.

I would love to run E85 if we had any around here. At least without it I didn't have to buy into some expensive fuel pump setup.
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Old 08-28-2018, 01:12 PM
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I had 127lb'ers with pump gas and they idled perfect, you just need a tuner that knows what they are doing and will take the time to do it right

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Old 08-28-2018, 01:42 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by neutron82 View Post
I had 127lb'ers with pump gas and they idled perfect, you just need a tuner that knows what they are doing and will take the time to do it right
Must have had a GIANT turbo to need 127'lbrs? Those would support around 1500hp on gasoline!
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Old 08-28-2018, 01:49 PM
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I was making about 800 with 93 and meth and duty cycle was in the 50s... switched to e85 and duty cycle is now in the 90s on a hard pull... I have some fic 1650s (157lb) that will be going on in the winter just to give me some head room
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Old 08-28-2018, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by neutron82 View Post
I was making about 800 with 93 and meth and duty cycle was in the 50s... switched to e85 and duty cycle is now in the 90s on a hard pull... I have some fic 1650s (157lb) that will be going on in the winter just to give me some head room
What is the most HP you can use on the street fairly reliably in a c5 in your opinion. I am shooting for 540whp and am hoping that will be enough... You must have a cast iron block too?

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Old 08-28-2018, 05:24 PM
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I'm right around 850 now and have no issues putting it down, I'd say maybe 900-950 would be right on the edge of being able to have fun and keep it fairly reliable and when I say that I mean something not breaking every time you take it out to play... with a centrifugal blower the power is linear so it gives the car a chance to hook before the big peak power comes in... believe it or not I'm still on the stock bottom end besides a cam
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Old 08-28-2018, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by neutron82 View Post
I'm right around 850 now and have no issues putting it down, I'd say maybe 900-950 would be right on the edge of being able to have fun and keep it fairly reliable and when I say that I mean something not breaking every time you take it out to play... with a centrifugal blower the power is linear so it gives the car a chance to hook before the big peak power comes in... believe it or not I'm still on the stock bottom end besides a cam
Just got back from a tuning session, I now have the VE and MAF dialed in. Took a little work but now it idles like stock. Time to make some WOT pulls tomorrow!

As far as yours, Wow... thats a lot of HP! How about the durability of the cluch/tranny and torque tube bushings? What rpm to you shift at with stock rod bolts?
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Old 08-28-2018, 09:59 PM
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now the fun starts, hope your clutch can take it!... I had all kinds of hell with my stock clutch when the car was n/a so I knew there was no way it would handle more power with a blower so I swapped in a twin disc... I had pfadt motor and diff mounts but the rest of the drivetrain was stock and it took 7-800hp for a few years with no problems and then I swapped everything out to be safe so hopefully I shouldn't have any drivetrain issues in the future... get a good set of tires and don't launch it hard and you should be fine... my rev limiter is set at 7k and I shift at about 6800
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Old 08-30-2018, 09:19 PM
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First gear is nuts now with over 500hp and try as I may to not do it, I have hit my new rev limit of 6500 several times. My understanding is that this can (and will) cause a pressure surge that will crack the plastic MAF in half. A&A offers an aluminum MAF girdle to solve the problem.

Does anyone know how common a cracked in half MAF is with a centrifugal supercharger on the C5 and what other solutions have you used? I want to avoid breaking mine if i can....

Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-30-2018, 09:23 PM
  #53  
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seen it before, speed density tune and taking the maf out will solve it
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Old 09-03-2018, 11:48 AM
  #54  
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Installed the Intercooler and its aluminum shrouding as well as the pipes and hoses. Almost done installing parts!

A&A Vortech C5 Supercharger Install Part 6:

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Old 09-03-2018, 03:42 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by aaronc7 View Post
I'm on the fence between 60s and 80s, but I like the additional headroom, but been worried about driveability otherwise. I have a mildish cam, so that's not gonna help stability either. I'll probably need the 80s since I'll be running a non boost referenced (stock) FPR setup and power goals in mind. I am familiar with the minimum pulsewidth stuff, I have EFIlLive, so it's probably called something different... I think they call it minimum transient pulsewidth. Best answer is probably getting a set of equivalent ID injectors, but I'm scared to even look at the price. Interested to hear your thoughts on how your injectors work at the end of the day.

I would love to run E85 if we had any around here. At least without it I didn't have to buy into some expensive fuel pump setup.
The Siemens Deka 80s were a little tricky for me to tune running 93 octane. At idle and part throttle it is a little like drinking out of a fire hose vs a garden hose (tricky). I have it dialed in now so I cannot even tell a difference between stock at idle and part throttle. I would use whatever injector has accurate specs for tuning AND leaves you at about 80 - 85 duty cycle for your power goals and fuel. My personal risk analysis/opinion says anything over 600 engine HP (& 6400 RPM on the 2001 & up LS1's) is starting to be dangerous for the stock pistons to handle.

Do you have a stock short block and if so, what power at the crank are targeting??
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Old 09-03-2018, 05:13 PM
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No, I already broke my stock LS6 at the track. Cracked the liner/block and #7 piston in a pretty typical fashion. Engine is a basic alum 5.7 with stock crank, forged I beam rods and wiseco pistons. Nothing fancy, just addressed the biggest weak areas. Shooting for ~650whp (we'll call it 750 crank)... I think that should be reasonable. I'm not going to worry about chasing numbers too much though, I'm about to move out west where elevation will be ~4200 and 91 octane at best. At this point I see methanol/water injection as a must to bump up the effective octane of the fuel. No E85 locally, sadly.

Good to know that those 80lb-ers worked well pretty well at the end of the day. Results seem mixed on the internets.... comes down to tuning knowledge and experience I guess. I would put myself into a 'tinkerer' category for tuning, not an expert by any means. I'll probably get the 80s from the start to play it safe. Based on BSFC/fuel pressure calcs, 60s might be doable...but it's been difficult to get much first hand experiences on the forums. Most guys don't really get into the weeds of tuning and there's so many variables of fuel systems, how much methanol they are spraying, etc.

Liked the last video upload, keep em coming.
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Old 09-04-2018, 02:08 AM
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I'm subscribed to this thread. Good stuff!
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Old 09-05-2018, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Dfire88 View Post
I'm subscribed to this thread. Good stuff!
Thanks for the feedback - glad you like it!
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:10 PM
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Part 7 of the series.
Install of the Kenny Bell Boost- A-Pump and the fuel injectors etc. Just about done.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkGSeOs15hA&t=1s

Last edited by Toys4Life C5; 09-17-2018 at 04:03 PM.
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Old 09-14-2018, 02:08 AM
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I think you just rounded third base, take it on home brother!
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