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Just got mine about a month ago for all the same reasons. The only difference between your story and mine is that I wanted the gunmetal, and wasn't crazy about the bright silver on the Cray Spiders. As soon as these came out, I jumped on them. I was warned by other autocrossers that the center caps get soft from heat when autocrossing, and can fall out. I got the fronts pretty hot at the last event a few weeks ago. I did check them after every run, and while they did seem softer and a bit loose, they were still there. I may try some silicone or something for insurance.
Last edited by jschliffka; Jul 31, 2018 at 09:36 AM.
When you autocross you will appreciate the color of the rims--brake dust. When setting up your ride height and suspension, remember, if you go more than a 1/2" in the front you will start to hit the bumpstops on the shocks occasionally. Also when you are getting an alignment, find someplace that has scales so you can counterbalance at the same time. Next will be to get with Stan Strano for shocks and front sway bar advise and parts. Also, when you are cleaning the wheels after an event, wash the wheels and let them dry. then using cold setting oven cleaner spay them, let it set 15 minutes and wipe them off and then rinse. Does amazing cleaning of hardened brake dust.
Good looking wheels!
I prefer wheels to 'compliment' rather than 'contrast' with the car color. There are a few rare exceptions, such as the C6 Cup wheels with the machined face, which look pretty darn awesome on any color C5.
I just bought a silver Z, came with chrome Zr1 reps, too flashy / 'old man' for me. Looking at Flowform F4, Forgestars, or TSW Interlagos in grey or gunmetal.
Looks great! I plan on picking up a dedicated set of track wheels/tires for next season. I may have to look into these!
And, you will be fine cleaning off brake dust. My Wilwood pads dust pretty badly, and any dedicated brake dust remover takes it all off. I have been using both Kenotek Wheel Cleaner and Honest Wash BDP with great results. My wheels are sealed with a dedicated sealant, and much like your ceramic coating, allows for easy cleaning.
Your setup looks nice. I got these from a vendor in florida. My lug nut covers wont fit because of the flange or lip on them.
I have the crossed flag decals for the center caps.
Im undecided on whether to go with bright chrome or gunmetal gray caps?
I've thought about doing this. Is the ride quality sacrificed? You're basically just compressing the spring? Michigan roads are terrible...
i haven't spent much time in it. I lowered the front down almost as much as possible. I brought it up about 1/2 a turn on the front bolts. Rears are down all the way. In the 10 miles I put on it to get it settled I noticed it was a little harsh over big bumps. And actually going over bumps wasn't bad, it seemed like the big cracks and holes in the road is where I noticed a difference. Not bad, just harsh. It's easy to do if you try it and want to go back.
I've thought about doing this. Is the ride quality sacrificed? You're basically just compressing the spring? Michigan roads are terrible...
FYI the springs are not compressed by lowering, it does not change the spring rate. The C5s have clever adjustable bolts which adjust where the suspension 'hangs' on the end of the leaf springs. Ride height is basically a matter of balancing preference with practicality.
I've thought about doing this. Is the ride quality sacrificed? You're basically just compressing the spring? Michigan roads are terrible...
Same question here in FL as I drive across the state a few times every once in a while..
Those old brick roads in Tampa and St. Pete are terrible, however, most all other paved roads are way better than up north.
I just went with the stock Z06 wheel size. http://www.1stratecorvetteparts.com/
