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Any one running the new Mobil 1 ESP 0w 40 Chevrolet is now recommending for the corvette.. My understanding is stops oil consumption on high RPM use.
Track days.
As a chemist and used to work for Mobil - no oil will stop consumption. Parts are worn and the oil blows by and burns in the cylinder. No way to fix that with out fixing the worn or broken pats or parts.
As a chemist and used to work for Mobil - no oil will stop consumption. Parts are worn and the oil blows by and burns in the cylinder. No way to fix that with out fixing the worn or broken pats or parts.
True but the question is if the 0/40 is better to run especially in warmer climates.
Wasn't that recommendation for the C7 Z06? You may want to ask that question in the Autocross and Road racing section to see what the opinions are of that particular viscosity in hihg performance/racing applications.
It's the recommended oil for all new corvettes. The LS engine has always had a issues with consumption at extended use above 4000 rpm.
just wondering if anyone had tried it in a earlier car. I will post in the autocross section as well.
My personal opinion is that the car was designed for a 30wt oil. If your oil temp is too high, for whatever reason, it is better to deal with that issue with a oil cooler than getting a heavier weight oil as a band aid. That said, I doubt going to a heavier oil would cause any harm.
Last edited by Clairvoyantwolf; Aug 1, 2018 at 04:15 PM.
I have owned several Corvettes and non of them have had an oil burning issue. I do not do any racing other than occasional 1/4 mile drag racing once every couple years. I don't see why everyone is so tuned to the new Mobil 1 oil since it really is not needed and is difficult to find on the shelves. There was a guy on the C-7 forum that actually left his car over the weekend in a dealership just because they were short 2 quarts of the special oil. There is no way I leave my car over a weekend just because 2 quarts of oil was not in stock. Corvettes have been running many years on a 5W-30 or 5W-40 and they don't seem to have any problems other than some issues on the 2001 C-5's.
I'm not sure how it works today, but in the old days, the lower number indicates the 'cold' viscosity and the lower that number, the easier it is to turn over the engine when starting, the higher number is the warm viscosity and is a 'thicker' lubricate. If you live in Minnesota, you might want a real low number for easier starting.
If you live in Florida, it isn't a big thing.
Times have changed, I don't know how it works in today's world.
As far as Mobil 1 0w-40, there are in fact at least three (3) versions and I have been recently reading about it in the C7 section;
- the currently readily available Mobil 1 0w-40 Advanced FS "European Car Formula" for the NA market
- the European market Mobil 1 ESP 0w-40 dexos2 license # GB1A0917015 (imported recently in 1 liter bottles) which is being phased out and replaced by the new ESP Formula 0w-40 (see photo below)
- the new factory C7 fill Mobil 1 ESP Formula 0w-40 dexos2 license # D20679HJ015 (packaged in 1 quart bottles)
The reason for the switch in the factory fill is so that the C7 owners do not have to switch from 5w-30 to 15w-50 for track days and then back to 5w-30 on the street. The 0w-40 is also the retroactive dealership fill for all C7 models/engines. BTW, they still recommend switching to 15w-50 for track duty in the LT5 in the ZR1
Personally I have been running the readily available Mobil 1 0w-40 Advanced FS "European Car Formula" in the warmed over LS6 in my '99 FRC on the street. I buy it in 5 quart jugs at Walmart. Why am I running 0w-40 you ask. Well the C5 was never fitted with an oil cooler from the factory and the oil temps can run at 210-225 in regular traffic on the street just futzing around during the summer let alone when you hammer on it, plus the fact that Mobil 5w-30 shears down fairly quickly. That and the bearing clearance in my engine were set up for a heavier weight oils. Heck, the Redline 5w-40 or Mobil 1 TDT 5w-40 or even FS X2 5w-50 might be an even better choice for my particular engine
I don't know the answer to this question, but I do think it would be a bit foolish to base your engine oil choice for your 20 year old engine off of the engine oil choice for a modern engine that is probably way more different even down in the nitty-gritty than you think.
As far as Mobil 1 0w-40, there are in fact at least three (3) versions and I have been recently reading about it in the C7 section;
- the currently readily available Mobil 1 0w-40 Advanced FS "European Car Formula" for the NA market
- the European market Mobil 1 ESP 0w-40 dexos2 license # GB1A0917015 (imported recently in 1 liter bottles) which is being phased out and replaced by the new ESP Formula 0w-40 (see photo below)
- the new factory C7 fill Mobil 1 ESP Formula 0w-40 dexos2 license # D20679HJ015 (packaged in 1 quart bottles)
The reason for the switch in the factory fill is so that the C7 owners do not have to switch from 5w-30 to 15w-50 for track days and then back to 5w-30 on the street. The 0w-40 is also the retroactive dealership fill for all C7 models/engines. BTW, they still recommend switching to 15w-50 for track duty in the LT5 in the ZR1
Personally I have been running the readily available Mobil 1 0w-40 Advanced FS "European Car Formula" in the warmed over LS6 in my '99 FRC on the street. I buy it in 5 quart jugs at Walmart. Why am I running 0w-40 you ask. Well the C5 was never fitted with an oil cooler from the factory and the oil temps can run at 210-225 in regular traffic on the street just futzing around during the summer let alone when you hammer on it, plus the fact that Mobil 5w-30 shears down fairly quickly. That and the bearing clearance in my engine were set up for a heavier weight oils. Heck, the Redline 5w-40 or Mobil 1 TDT 5w-40 or even FS X2 5w-50 might be an even better choice for my particular engine
Thanks that why I ask. Someone with some track time using the new formula in a C5.
is tour car fitted with a remote oil cooler
I don't know the answer to this question, but I do think it would be a bit foolish to base your engine oil choice for your 20 year old engine off of the engine oil choice for a modern engine that is probably way more different even down in the nitty-gritty than you think.
Since the LS engines are fitted with hydraulic roller cams, its not a real issue. Now with the earlier L98 engines in the C4 fitted with hydraulic flat tappet camshaft than it is a real concern with the newer SM/SN rated oils with their lower levels of ZDDP.
Thanks that why I ask. Someone with some track time using the new formula in a C5.
Is your car fitted with a remote oil cooler
I currently run Mobil 1 0w-40 on the street. This '99 FRC is new to me, but the PO was a good friend of mine. He nuked the previous "warmed over" LS1 on the track due to oiling and over heating issues. I will not take the car out on the track with the new LS6 engine with forged internals until the parts currently sitting in the boxes out in the garage next to the car are installed. They include; a fabricated aluminum radiator, an oil cooler setup with an Improved Racing thermostatically controlled adapter. a '01-04 2-pcs oil pan with Improved Racing trap door baffles, '04-05 LS6 valley cover, Vortec truck rear steam crossover steam tube, Elite Engineering catch can and a few other items. No reason to waste the PO's investment in the new engine if I can't properly protect it out on the track. Either the Mobil 1 0w-40 or the Mobil 1 TDT 5w-40 or similar oils from either Amsoil or Redline should be perfect dual purpose oils in a street & track driven n/a C5. Boosted engines or track only engines would benefit with stepping up to one of the many 50 weight oil choices.
The "zero" rated oils initially came out of Europe to help with MPG ratings - less friction when cold, so marginally better fuel consumption. Not sure I would want to put it in a well worn engine - 5-30 is pretty thin already. Now if I lived somewhere that had seriously cold winters, I would be happy to give it a try as a winter only lube.
As a chemist and used to work for Mobil - no oil will stop consumption. Parts are worn and the oil blows by and burns in the cylinder. No way to fix that with out fixing the worn or broken pats or parts.
With that said, what would you run in a warmer climate LS1 with say 80k on the clock?