FRC Paint
#1
Le Mans Master
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FRC Paint
Sorry to bring up this often discussed topic, but I pushed the envelope on the type of paint I used on my FRC’s and they are now bubbling. I used some glitter paint from Michael’s to give them more sparkle but it didn’t work out and I’m going to repaint everything I did in that color.
I want to go with a gunmetal type of grey but the choices are very limited in high heat or engine paint. There is a medium gray but it’s not metallic which I prefer.
MUST I use a high heat paint? Any opinions on non metallic vs. metallic in the engine compartment?
Thanks folks.
I want to go with a gunmetal type of grey but the choices are very limited in high heat or engine paint. There is a medium gray but it’s not metallic which I prefer.
MUST I use a high heat paint? Any opinions on non metallic vs. metallic in the engine compartment?
Thanks folks.
#2
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Paint them in an automotive finish with some extra metallic added if that is the look you are after. Prep and primering is a key to keeping the paint stick to the FRCs and you need a paint that can withstand the underhood engine temps.
#3
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Thanks guys. So a high heat primer and then color coat. Not sure if I want a high gloss, but it is better for wiping down. Concerned about a matte finish having finger marks or smudges hanging around, or needing ‘extra’ cleaning. I’m speculating because the surface is textured and I’m not sure I want to do the work to smooth out every detail. I have texture paint on my radio bezel and that’s working out pretty well.
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You seem to be hung up on the high heat primer/paint. You don't need it..... Regular, good quality automotive paint is more than adequate on properly prepared surface.
I would avoid a textured finish under the hood. It will be difficult to get out the dirt and oil that WILL get on the FRC's. A gloss finish will be far easier to wipe off when they get dirty. JMHO
I would avoid a textured finish under the hood. It will be difficult to get out the dirt and oil that WILL get on the FRC's. A gloss finish will be far easier to wipe off when they get dirty. JMHO
#5
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Agreed with the above, I used automotive grade paint when I did mine, but was first certain to sand off any and all texture on my covers. Then I wet sanded the covers with both 400 then 600 grit. I then used a high build primer for 3 coats (two light one medium) then wet sanded that and used the following grits thoroughly. (1000-1500-2000-2500) cleaned the surface thoroughly after and applied my paint. Two light one medium-heavy coat. Then an hour later I applied a 2k clear.
its been a few months now and they still look great.
(Edit. - to remove the native texture on my covers I used 120 grit then 240 grit on an orbital sander. Took about 20- 30 mins per cover iir to get all the texture off. )
pictures : - right after completion.
Last week after a 500 Mi round trip drive and a clean up.
Last edited by Arvalo; 09-25-2018 at 03:10 PM.
#6
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Ok guys, I get the hint. It will be gloss, prepped and smooth. I have NO idea what color now that I can do anything!!!
Pewter car, metallic black/yellow stripe and yellow calipers. Suggestions welcomed!
Pewter car, metallic black/yellow stripe and yellow calipers. Suggestions welcomed!
#7
Pro
I’d have to recommend yellow since it’ll match your calipers and stripe.
I'm actually planning to paint my calipers and radiator shroud soon to match my hash marks, and FRCs. I’ve got lots of other blue accents under the hood lately to go along with it.
However a picture of your car, and of the engine bay might help.
I'm actually planning to paint my calipers and radiator shroud soon to match my hash marks, and FRCs. I’ve got lots of other blue accents under the hood lately to go along with it.
However a picture of your car, and of the engine bay might help.
Last edited by Arvalo; 09-25-2018 at 04:20 PM.
#12
Le Mans Master
Make sure you use a high-fill primer. Less sanding. Also you can also use the same I-shot, I also used it on my street rod engine with no problems, but you'll have to airbrush it.
#13
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thanks Jeff. Can I get that primer anywhere? Someone on the FB C5 group suggested I use adhesion promoter also.
I’m leaning towards a gunmetal or bronze color to keep the engine compartment neutral. I can use the one shot for the accents on the FRC’s. My problem with filling in the letters and the stripes is masking them off. Concerned about the tape pulling the fresh paint when it’s time to paint the accents.
Here’s a sample of the vinyl I once used on my radio bezel:
I’m leaning towards a gunmetal or bronze color to keep the engine compartment neutral. I can use the one shot for the accents on the FRC’s. My problem with filling in the letters and the stripes is masking them off. Concerned about the tape pulling the fresh paint when it’s time to paint the accents.
Here’s a sample of the vinyl I once used on my radio bezel:
#14
Le Mans Master
High-fill primer is a type not a brand. Many paint companies make high fill primers, and you can find it in spray cans too, at auto parts stores. There also is a supply store for auto paint needs, like body shops, called Finishmaster in Denville. 361-4020. 321 Palmer Road, Denville. ask for Jesus, he's who usually helps me. They will have good quality paint primers in spray cans or sprayable paint.
#15
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High-fill primer is a type not a brand. Many paint companies make high fill primers, and you can find it in spray cans too, at auto parts stores. There also is a supply store for auto paint needs, like body shops, called Finishmaster in Denville. 361-4020. 321 Palmer Road, Denville. ask for Jesus, he's who usually helps me. They will have good quality paint primers in spray cans or sprayable paint.
#16
Le Mans Master
I forgot about Boonton. They are good too.