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I am trying to get rid of my parasitic battery drAw so picked up one of these off amazon.
No instructions were included. I think I have an idea.
Nothing needs to be removed from the bottom correct? Just connect your vehicles positive or negative cable to the bolt underneath. And on the other bolt connect a separate line and connect to the line you pulled to make a series connection. Am I on the right page?
I do have a tender. I am in an apartment without a private garage for three months while I look for a house (with a garage!) so figured this was the simplistic idea in the interim.
Does it matter if you disconnect the positive or negative and run it through the switch?
Why not just solve the excessive current draw problem?? Its NOT really that difficult.
BC
This is a temporary fix so the battery doesn’t draw. Yes, when I am settled in and have a garage I will be doing this. This is done by taking a volt meter through the fuse box correct? Can someone link me to the thread that shows how to do this please?
If it were me as a temporary measure, I would get a side terminal disconnect rather than hack my battery cable. And I would connect it to the ground side.
...Can someone link me to the thread that shows how to do this please?
That info was already given to you in the original thread Alternator Question, but you never followed up. It is in Post 27.
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Why not just solve the excessive current draw problem?? Its NOT really that difficult.
BC
As far as we know, the actual current draw has never been measured, so this might not even be an issue.
In the original thread about this problem, it was established that apparently both, battery and alternator, were fine after AutoZone tested them.
It was also established that apparently there was an excessive voltage drop between the alternator's output and the battery's (+) post. Therefore, it was suggested to check connections at the starter solenoid, as well as to verify the whole "alternator-starter solenoid-battery" path, but there was no follow up either
That info was already given to you in your original thread Alternator Question, but you never followed up. It is in Post 27.
As far as we know, the actual current draw has never been measured, so this might not even be an issue.
In the original thread about this problem, it was established that apparently both, battery and alternator, were fine after AutoZone tested them.
It was also established that apparently there was an excessive voltage drop between the alternator's output and the battery's (+) post. Therefore, it was suggested to check connections at the starter solenoid, as well as to verify the whole "alternator-starter solenoid-battery" path, but there was no follow up either
#27 perfect got it. No follow up on the starter solenoid cause cannot do this in an apartment lot complex busy parking lot! I’ll get there.
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Battery Disconnect Switch Help
