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My o2's get lazy when i come to a light or stop..I have the xs headers and the o2 bung is at the end of the headers..i noticed kooks has the bung alot closer up..shouldnt that be better for the o2's?
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Ceramic Coatings and fiberglass wrap will help some to keep the heat in the headers. That helps the 02 s. But the fact is long tubes or just not conducive to keeping heat in the exhaust charge.
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Originally Posted by FreeC5inAZ
Our O2's are heated so that small distance isn't going to hurt.
Is that why you have to tune out the codes for O2 Sensors not heating up? Slow response, etc?
Originally Posted by 04zjimc
Am i the only one with this problem lol
No you are not. Anyone with LT headers has gone through that. I tuned out the messages. If you don't have HPTuners or Tunercat or Diablo, you're gonna have to pay someone to get rid of the codes. Keeping some heat in the headers is one way to help, but by no means will it totally eliminate the errors.
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Originally Posted by 04zjimc
I have hp tuners the strange thing is i have no codes..i can watch my o2's get very lazy at a light.. power comes and goes..
What do you mean "Watch" them get lazy? They switch pretty fast, if you're saying you've got idle inconsistencies, that's due to a tune, not necessarily the O2s. But either the O2s work, or they don't. There's not much in between.
I hooked up my tech 2 and drove around.. o2s what i thought either go baf or get lazy and hang up. For example..if i drive in 2nd gear at 30mph hit it bring the rpms to 4000 sometimes it will be flat go nowehere other times it will take off and pull like its supposed to..it was dynoed at 380..
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Well you've got something wrong in your tune. The O2s will not work one time and not work another. They are doing what they're supposed to do.
And numbers on the dyno do not have anything to do with drivability. You can easily have an engine that puts out lots of horsepower but it only works when it's at wide open throttle. The real trick to tuning is not getting horsepower, it's getting it to drive really nice. You would have to datalog the car and do some investigation to find out why yours is acting the way that it does.
No tune is fine except for my cold startup..the o2s are lazy because of my headers..this has been happening since i installed headers. Im thinking about wrapping the header at the bottom of the header and changing my o2s...
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Originally Posted by 04zjimc
No tune is fine except for my cold startup..the o2s are lazy because of my headers..this has been happening since i installed headers. Im thinking about wrapping the header at the bottom of the header and changing my o2s...
you should really wrap the entire header or get them ceramic-coated. As to switching the O2s, consider the idea of buying the adapter harnesses and using rear O2s in the front.