Wrap vs paint!
Most people will have a pretty hard time telling that it is not paint, any regular non car person will never question it. If you know what to look for then sure you can notice that "orange peel" look in the reflection of it.
One thing for sure though is if your paint is not in perfect condition and not prepped correctly, its going to rip clear coat when you remove it, if you plan to wrap it again after that it will need to be sanded completely smooth or you will see the outline where the clear coat has been removed. Definitely keep up on cleaning it, I left mine in a parking garage for two weeks while I was out of town and the soot / **** in the air literally stained the wrap, couldn't see standing back but if you looked up close there were little dots in it.
Wraps should last 5+ years the longest I left one on for was maybe a year and a half.
Heres a few I had on my 55 swapped C43 AMG (Pictures are a few years old camera phone now, not the highest quality, but you get the idea)
Oracal Gloss Turquoise Lavender -
Avery Gloss Silver Diamond -
Hexis Gloss Vivid Blue
Last edited by ZO6_Dom; Jan 28, 2019 at 03:25 PM.


Last edited by Chris Draper; Jan 28, 2019 at 02:58 PM.
With base/clear you have to blend to the adjacent panel, for a true honest repair. Especially with metallics and god fobid pearls because you'll never match the concentration of the factory spray when you butt them next to each other, you have to blend it in. So, if someone just painted your bumper...it'd have to require the blend be all on the bumper, which...in theory could be done for 250.00 but, it'd have to be a small spot, or a quick spray job with cheap *** paint. Doesnt' mean it can't turn out, depending on the situation but...250.00 is mega cheap, definitely on the side, no insurance and yeah...prob on some drugs or booze.
Main reason I wrap is because the finish is dead *** consistent, and I don't need the booth to do it anymore. I slowly began putting painting cars on the back burner in 2012-13 and started wrapping more because the options for very difficult finishes comes with a guarantee. Doing a gloss yellow or gloss blue wrap, wastes opportunity in my opinion...go satins or matte's, do something different, even if it's subtle in color, etc. That said though, I just did a 3m Plum Explosion in gloss and I have to say, pics do it NO justice...
Last edited by KnightDriveTV; Jan 28, 2019 at 04:04 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Last edited by 04zjimc; Jan 28, 2019 at 05:54 PM.
Last edited by KnightDriveTV; Jan 28, 2019 at 05:52 PM.
Last edited by 04zjimc; Jan 28, 2019 at 06:04 PM.
to paint. The wrap was 3200, no runs , no orange peel, looks real nice to me


My suggestion is discuss with your local Corvette club members and get their opinions on local painters.
a gallon of clear is close to $1000.00 now. This was at one of the better shops in town but I didnt want a maco paint job either
Not even to think the longevity aspect; the finish on a wrap has a very fake granulated texture. I’ve used very high quality wrap on my own car as well as seeing some pretty high end stuff. If you’re doing a gloss color - forget it.
I can massage traditional paint into glass. You can’t barely get swirl marks out of vynil. Then you have environment to worry about. Go up to a wrapped car sitting for an hour in the summer sun. Look how the surface has basically ‘melted’ into the backing. Poke it with your fingernail and watch it indent immediately. It’s not a hardened surface and it has zero UV protection. The colors like blacks are far from pure; having a browish hue in hard light.
About the ONLY decent surfacing is done through a dipping process; or rather ‘dip’ that is sprayed with a gun, with a two part catalyst and an actual top coat. If you think it sounds a lot like paint to get actual quality then you are correct. Except it cost the same if not more and tears off in chunks. It’s a neat solution that still carries a longevity and cost problem - and certainly isn’t a wrap.
The only way to do something RIGHT is to paint it. I’ve also had quotes that high to blend a metallic because they’ll be disassembling the entire halo, the doors, the hatch and rear bumper to properly blend/ fade in the new color and then re-clear everything. It’s very tedious and intensive of both labor and materials. Thanks to the garbage factory ‘unblendable’ silver; I basically had to fight to JUST panel paint. Otherwise it’d have to be the whole car due to factory mottling.
So yeah, do it correctly and hopefully you have a solid, or at least darker color. Even the solids SHOULD have the full bore blending; but it’s definitely easier to get away without. Should be around $700 or so from a LEGIT place for fenders alone pending body work is minimal.
The vynil guys can enjoy their 5-10 footer instagram builds.
Last edited by RSbeast; Jan 29, 2019 at 02:21 AM.
There are hundreds of colors and textures. Don't shop by price, shop around for a pro. many clam to be. google vinyl wraps, tons of videos.
There are hundreds of colors and textures. Don't shop by price, shop around for a pro. many clam to be. google vinyl wraps, tons of videos.

















