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Just ordered mine from Costco- $1069.99 shipped to my door, should be here Monday. My C5 Z and I are very excited! Those who have one, are you using jacking pucks as well, or just the supplied rubber blocks? I’ve read some do, some don’t on the pucks.
Just ordered mine from Costco- $1069.99 shipped to my door, should be here Monday. My C5 Z and I are very excited! Those who have one, are you using jacking pucks as well, or just the supplied rubber blocks? I’ve read some do, some don’t on the pucks.
I use the lift pucks with the small rubber blocks
Cheers,
Goose
I used dexron III in mine and I am not using pucks, just the blocks that come with the jacks. I suppose you could use pucks in addition to the blocks, as long as you have the height and the pucks clear the jack frame, but I didn't see the need.
The QJ 5000 works great. I also use the small rubber blocks along with jacking pucks. Relatively easy to setup. They are a bit heavy, but that is better than flimsy.
I find that the rubber blocks are a little big to avoid contacting bodywork in the rear, so I use pucks in the rear, but in the front I just use the shorter rubber pad. With the slight rake of the car this works out well because I couldn't fit a puck plus rubber block under the front anyways, but I can in the rear (barely). The slight rake helps with oil changes.
I also 'painted' the bottom of my quick-jack with that truck bed liner stuff so it would stop scratching my floor and 4-post lift as I slide it around into position. I sometimes put the Quickjack on my 4 post lift to get the car off it's wheels and up higher to work on.
I have seen the Dannmar two post lifts on line, you can unbolt them from the floor and move them out of the way! They lift 4’ high for low ceiling heights. Has anyone bought this unit? I now they cost more, but I’m curious?
thanks cruzbox
Great thread, been on the fence getting one of these and was ready to pull the trigger the day HD raised their price. Not a member of Costco, but only a 5% surcharge on the sales price for non-members so still less then HD was prior to the increase. Thanks for the heads up.
I use the lift pucks with the small rubber blocks
Cheers,
Goose
Just got my QJ5000 a few weeks ago from HD. It (the boxes) got beat up in shipping but looks like everything will work fine. Glad to see your post and pics...I need to tackle the clutch in mine and that certainly looks like what you were doing here. Any issues with getting the rear cradle, trans/diff and torque tube out in one piece? Looks like you've got plenty of clearance to do it.
Just got my QJ5000 a few weeks ago from HD. It (the boxes) got beat up in shipping but looks like everything will work fine. Glad to see your post and pics...I need to tackle the clutch in mine and that certainly looks like what you were doing here. Any issues with getting the rear cradle, trans/diff and torque tube out in one piece? Looks like you've got plenty of clearance to do it.
Removing it all is one thing, but putting it back in like you removed it is whole another thing....
Just do a search on clutch replacements and choose the best procedures that reduces the risks of damaging components that works best for you...
Removing it all is one thing, but putting it back in like you removed it is whole another thing....
Just do a search on clutch replacements and choose the best procedures that reduces the risks of damaging components that works best for you...
Looks like you had plenty of clearance, think Id end up with the 7000 so I could do my truck as well. Question on stability, after drive train was out, did you push on front at all as a test? As nose heavy in that configuration as it would be, Im curious if it was tippy at all.
One last question, my Z is lowered all the way on stock bolts, will I be able to get the Quickjack under the car using jacking pucks and the thin blocks?
One last question, my Z is lowered all the way on stock bolts, will I be able to get the Quickjack under the car using jacking pucks and the thin blocks?
Unlikely, but drive all four wheels onto pieces of plywood or 2-by material and then it will fit.
I think my car is stock height, and I can just barely get my pucks plus thin blocks under the rear, but in the front I can't fit the pucks. But on my car at least I have no problem just using the blocks in the front because there is plenty of exposed frame. In the rear on my car the block alone would be on bodywork as there is just a puck-sized opening to the frame.
I'm not sure if all cars are the same in this respect (how much frame is exposed).
One last question, my Z is lowered all the way on stock bolts, will I be able to get the Quickjack under the car using jacking pucks and the thin blocks?
My z06 is slammed with coil overs and I use pucks and the thin blocks, only have to drive the front wheels on a 2x6
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