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Could you elaborate on how you drilled out the rivets for the center bracket? Did you use a right-angle adapter on your drill? What size drill bit(s)?
TIA
Sure. I did not use a right angle adapter. I simply used a cordless drill with a 3/8 bit. I centered on each rivet and just drilled at an angle, so the rivet head got chewed away by the end of the bit as well as a little of the side of the bit. I also put down some shop rags to catch as many of the shavings as I could.
I did this with Reflectix for heat and HVAC insulation from Lowe’s and the heat issue and noise from the tunnel is gone. Well worth it and easy to do.
Originally Posted by pcfred
If you ever have occasion to pull the center console and bezel again I suggest you put some "good" heat insulation on the tunnel before putting the bezel/console back on. Also pull the carpet away a little and put some along the sides of the tunnel.
Great write up, Ron! Your attention to detail in your execution of this project really pays dividends with a professional finished look! Happy motoring!
Sure. I did not use a right angle adapter. I simply used a cordless drill with a 3/8 bit. I centered on each rivet and just drilled at an angle, so the rivet head got chewed away by the end of the bit as well as a little of the side of the bit. I also put down some shop rags to catch as many of the shavings as I could.
On my conversion I used a small Dremel cutting wheel on a right angle air die grinder. took three wheels, but less than a minute to cut each rivet head. Careful placement of shop rags, shop vac and eye protection required!!
Very nice write up, thanks for sharing!
Nice work. Too many installs are hack jobs. You did it right.
Really good that VetteNuts has the DD console at a reasonable price; that used to be really $$ to get.
I actually did a headunit-less install about a year ago, just use my phone and BT for everything. works a charm. Backup cam is really the only thing missing. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ss-system.html
Awsome descripsion. I am about to do the same conversion. I need to ask you. What screen size wil fit. 6.8" - 7.0". What size have you put in.
For the head unit I went with the Kenwood DNX694S. It has a 6.8 inch display which was pretty much an exact fit. I think a 7.0 inch may fit but would likely require some additional filing of the inside of the bezel opening. I have attached some additional pictures that show some better closeups of the fitment. I needed to tweak the opening just a bit with some minor filing.
Thank you. I did not track the actual time. I completed it here and there over a couple of days. I did spend a lot of time planning out where to run / hide everything to have it come out clean and look factory in the end.
From: Philadelphia PA (Birthplace of the USA, UNESCO World Heritage City)
I was thinking of doing something like this but slightly different:
- Keep stock head unit but add aux adapter - Slide stock head unit further back in cavity in order to place a small Android tablet in front of it. - Use plastic panel sheet (like what you have) as a nice/flush surround for the small tablet. The aux and USB power hookups to the small tablet will be hidden behind the plastic panel. - Extend the length of the power/volume **** on the stock head unit since it's now farther back, and will stick out through the plastic panel like in your photo.
Is that doable with the amount of space that's in the cavity? Not sure how much farther back the stock head unit can slide in the cavity. Maybe you're not sure since you never had a stock head unit in the first place, but maybe others can answer on that part of the question.
I'm looking to do this because by the time you buy a new double-din console, new double din head unit, and either an adapter for the stock/amp speakers (which I'm reading requires a lot of labor to get tuned right) or replacing the speakers, cost will be way too much.
It’s up to how long you intend to keep your car. All I can tell you is I got rid of the 21 year old Bose and got Alpine amp and 4 speakers. The W650 Alpine DD is a modern day wonder for my C-5 and it was ~$200. I added a rear camera for $20 and the Reflectix and duct noise insulation from Lowe’s I mentioned above and could not be happier. A quiet interior with sound quality that is excellent for me. BTW, I was surprised Best Buy would install it for free and guarantee it for life.
Originally Posted by ArmchairArchitect
I was thinking of doing something like this but slightly different:
- Keep stock head unit but add aux adapter - Slide stock head unit further back in cavity in order to place a small Android tablet in front of it. - Use plastic panel sheet (like what you have) as a nice/flush surround for the small tablet. The aux and USB power hookups to the small tablet will be hidden behind the plastic panel. - Extend the length of the power/volume **** on the stock head unit since it's now farther back, and will stick out through the plastic panel like in your photo.
Is that doable with the amount of space that's in the cavity? Not sure how much farther back the stock head unit can slide in the cavity. Maybe you're not sure since you never had a stock head unit in the first place, but maybe others can answer on that part of the question.
I'm looking to do this because by the time you buy a new double-din console, new double din head unit, and either an adapter for the stock/amp speakers (which I'm reading requires a lot of labor to get tuned right) or replacing the speakers, cost will be way too much.
I was thinking of doing something like this but slightly different:
- Keep stock head unit but add aux adapter - Slide stock head unit further back in cavity in order to place a small Android tablet in front of it. - Use plastic panel sheet (like what you have) as a nice/flush surround for the small tablet. The aux and USB power hookups to the small tablet will be hidden behind the plastic panel. - Extend the length of the power/volume **** on the stock head unit since it's now farther back, and will stick out through the plastic panel like in your photo.
Is that doable with the amount of space that's in the cavity? Not sure how much farther back the stock head unit can slide in the cavity. Maybe you're not sure since you never had a stock head unit in the first place, but maybe others can answer on that part of the question.
I'm looking to do this because by the time you buy a new double-din console, new double din head unit, and either an adapter for the stock/amp speakers (which I'm reading requires a lot of labor to get tuned right) or replacing the speakers, cost will be way too much.
I went the tablet rout, the phone route, etc. but in the end installing a DD head unit was THE BEST option than playing around with all the bandages. DD is clean, pretty easy, and has everything you need right there and easy to access. Your phone/tablet is free to pickup take with you when you leave the car, DD has bigger screen, easy to select what you want and all the functionality you need. And WAY better sound than what you'll get from a tablet or phone.
