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Looking to add headers to my 99, I don’t won’t it obnoxiously loud and don’t want to smell fuel, can you guys help point me in the right direction as to what catted setup I would work best?
The only (and probably most cost-effective) header company I know of that retains stock cats is JBA. Make sure you get the 97-00 version via the part number on their website. 2001-2004 is different. You have to make two cuts and weld afterwards for this setup to retain the cats.
Other brands have optional high-flow cats, but that is going to be obviously more expensive.
The only (and probably most cost-effective) header company I know of that retains stock cats is JBA. Make sure you get the 97-00 version via the part number on their website. 2001-2004 is different. You have to make two cuts and weld afterwards for this setup to retain the cats.
Other brands have optional high-flow cats, but that is going to be obviously more expensive.
Actually I want to replace the midpipe with a high flow catted one, which is best?
You can essentially get any long tube header setup you want. There are plenty of the vendors out there who sell longtube headers with a catted setup. Long tube headers with stock exhaust will be pretty tame and is probably what you are looking for. The headers are essentially the same, some manufactures offer the x pipe section towards the rear of the car while others have the x pipe location towards the front of the vehicle.
I think LG are some of the better ones. Some people experience slight fitment stuff with TSP. Speed Engineering make good fitting ones too, but they only have 1&7/8 primaries not 1&3/4. They are also not coated though and would have to buy high flow cats separately.
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
My TSPs did not have the fitment that I see other guys here showing in pics. I bought mine used (barely used) for a song off a salvage car w/catted X pipe, hi-flo. Buying new, I'd opt for whatever the guys here say fits best. In my watching these threads, I'd say the guys with LG seem thrilled with the fitment and the pics justify that.
DO NOT BUY ANY WITHOUT THE WIDEBAND BUNG ALREADY IN. Can they be welded in? Yes. Why F around, especially expecting someone to fill the headers with gas to back-purge the weld, it just ain't worth it. This coming from a guy who TIGs as part of his job and has the stuff, just get it already installed. They'll have already gotten the placement right and everything will fit beautiful and the weld inside will not rust due to improper gas coverage. Side note, I'd also opt for a plug that is NOT stainless, so as to alleviate the galling thread issue. I bought a bung and plug, ended up seizing it the very first time together and had to rethread it and use an old O2 sensor with the wiring and top cut off to be the plug. Dissimilar metals won't give you the trouble the SS plug will. I also put Dow P37 antiseize on the threads.
Usually you pay more for quality.
Your best bet is to stick with USA
products. I have run the same set of headers for
15 years. They are stainless from American
Racing and that's what I have done with
them. Stick with long tube headers for power.
Good luck
Make sure your smog laws allow long tubes. If not there is a lot more than just JBA out there - the best are the equal length Billy Boat shorties if you want to go that route.