When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
OP says he has lowering bolts installed. Is it possible the lowering bolts (they are longer than OE) in the rear are not allowing the full range of upward height adjustment OP is looking for in the rear to give him the rake he trying to achieve? Perhaps installing original, or at least original length, rear bolts would allow the adjustment OP needs to raise the rear where he wants it.
Just my opinion: Most Z06's I've seen around sit pretty high, which to me looks right. Additionally, the rake OP is looking for is excessive per the spec at the measuring points, which is approximately 0.22 inch IIRC.
Edit: 0.20 inch rake at measuring points
measuring points measurements
Last edited by Big_Mike_SD; Jun 17, 2020 at 05:50 PM.
Reason: add picture
You are correct it is a rubber band of a tire and l have actually spoke about of this odd ball tire in one of my other posts. These tires were already on the car when l bought it and were/are brand new. The research l did on them led me to go2 the Mustang forum where several members there use/used them and the feedback was very positive, especially for the price. As of that post they were still available, they are no longer. Not sure why. ln hindsight l shouldve purchased two of these as l now have a set of factory 18/10.5 C5 Z06 Speedlines for the front l wouldve liked to put them on., Oh well. Back to the issue at hand... l kinda thought that if the factory mono leaf was worn, the vehicle would sag, no? And no,no cutouts. And here is a pick of the rr tire
If it were my car, I would pass on the coilover idea and install some new, taller tires and sell what's on there, now. One option is 275/40/17 fronts (25.7" tall) and 295/35/18 rears (26.2" tall)
Those will make a big difference, aesthetically and performance too. Just my opinion, though.
That is not a bad idea USA. And one l have considered. But my ultimate goal is to run a square set up. l have already acquired the other 18x10.5 Speedline wheels for the front, no tires. lts just that l have this current set now that has literally ZERO miles on it and would like to get some use of it. The next tire purchase l make will be four 295's, not sure of the sidewall yet, that will require more research.
OP says he has lowering bolts installed. Is it possible the lowering bolts (they are longer than OE) in the rear are not allowing the full range of upward height adjustment OP is looking for in the rear to give him the rake he trying to achieve? Perhaps installing original, or at least original length, rear bolts would allow the adjustment OP needs to raise the rear where he wants it.
Just my opinion: Most Z06's I've seen around sit pretty high, which to me looks right. Additionally, the rake OP is looking for is excessive per the spec at the measuring points, which is approximately 0.22 inch IIRC.
Edit: 0.20 inch rake at measuring points
measuring points measurements
Hey Big Mike, l know the way of which you are measuring the ride height is the correct ' by the book ' way and is what should be used when one is serious about tracking their car. But as far as the casual enthusiast who just canyon runs their car or will only see limited track time (l fall in these categories) l truly believe the 'fender' measure is just fine and a acceptable method of height measurement. That being said, l'm not sure that putting the stock or stock size bolts in the rear will change anything as screwing the bolt in raises the ride height, and that being the case, it shouldnt matter if the bolt is 5" long or 10" long as long as it has threads all the way down to allow it to be screwed tight to raise the car. l cannot say for certain if this bolt has threads all the way down it to allow me to raise it as far as stock, l have not checked this. l will do so today. Thank you for bringing that aspect to my attention!
Last edited by R Jay MacReady; Jun 18, 2020 at 09:39 AM.
Hey Big Mike, l know the way of which you are measuring the ride height is the correct ' by the book ' way and is what should be used when one is serious about tracking their car. But as far as the casual enthusiast who just canyon runs their car or will only see limited track time (l fall in these categories) l truly believe the 'fender' measure is just fine and a acceptable method of height measurement. That being said, l'm not sure that putting the stock or stock size bolts in the rear will change anything as screwing the bolt in raises the ride height, and that being the case, it shouldnt matter if the bolt is 5" long or 10" long as long as it has threads all the way down to allow it to be screwed tight to raise the car. l cannot say for certain if this bolt has threads all the way down it to allow me to raise it as far as stock, l have not checked this. l will do so today. Thank you for bringing that aspect to my attention!
You're welcome and good luck. I mentioned the lowering bolts because the lowering bolts I have seen advertised have a longer unthreaded shank vs originals which increases the distance between the leaf and the control arm, thereby lowering the car beyond the limit of stock bolts. Like you I'm a casual cruiser, canyons, etc., and if I'm being honest I am pretty unlikely to see an autocross or a track day but I did notice a slight difference in handling at different rakes when I raised my car from the lowered state I bought it in. I think it had to do with weight distribution. My suspension felt like it worked better too.
I personally prefer to do things by the book, and I like knowing the proper procedures, but I agree that fender clearance is good enough. I figured you knew the procedure too, I was in no way trying to school you or anything. And based on your reply it sounds like the "rake" you refer to is the difference in wheel well lip heights from the ground for which around an inch or so is about right. I misunderstood--my bad.
You're welcome and good luck. I mentioned the lowering bolts because the lowering bolts I have seen advertised have a longer unthreaded shank vs originals which increases the distance between the leaf and the control arm, thereby lowering the car beyond the limit of stock bolts. Like you I'm a casual cruiser, canyons, etc., and if I'm being honest I am pretty unlikely to see an autocross or a track day but I did notice a slight difference in handling at different rakes when I raised my car from the lowered state I bought it in. I think it had to do with weight distribution. My suspension felt like it worked better too.
I personally prefer to do things by the book, and I like knowing the proper procedures, but I agree that fender clearance is good enough. I figured you knew the procedure too, I was in no way trying to school you or anything. And based on your reply it sounds like the "rake" you refer to is the difference in wheel well lip heights from the ground for which around an inch or so is about right. I misunderstood--my bad.
Hey Mike. Well l checked the after market rear lowering bolts and you are indeed correct! Thanks for bringing that to my attention. l never once got the impression you were trying to school me or were coming from a place of superior intellect. Even though l was a tech at Burbank Chevrolet for a few years and then again at Glendora Chevrolet, l will always consider myself a student of the technical arts haha. The moment one stops listening to others advice/suggestions/perspective/ideas is the moment you close your mind and stop learning. l always am open to hearing any advice/suggestions from anyone who has any on an problem or issue l am having, so bring them on! Thanks again for your help!
Why not get four known brand new (no old stock, the newer the better) 305/35r18 tires, and sell your two 305/30’s on a Mustang forum?
Hey Steve. Not a bad idea and one l may actually end up doing. But upon searching l dont think anyone makes a 305/35/18. l searched Tire Rack and it said NO RESULTS FOUND haha. l may just hafta go with 295/?/18's
Hey Steve. Not a bad idea and one l may actually end up doing. But upon searching l dont think anyone makes a 305/35/18. l searched Tire Rack and it said NO RESULTS FOUND haha. l may just hafta go with 295/?/18's
Just checked those out. lt is a road race tire. l am looking for a good daily tire that wont break the bank!
I used to run the NT-01s in that size on my 911turbo spring to fall would only get about 6-7k out of them, wouldn't imagine a c5 would see more than 10k even without track days. Who makes that 305/30/18 shown earlier in the thread? Seems like that would be a good size for the back of a C5.
I used to run the NT-01s in that size on my 911turbo spring to fall would only get about 6-7k out of them, wouldn't imagine a c5 would see more than 10k even without track days. Who makes that 305/30/18 shown earlier in the thread? Seems like that would be a good size for the back of a C5.
Yes, l am sure one would not get much more life out of those tires on a C5 as well. The aforementioned 305/30/18's are what were already on the back of my 03 Z06 when l purchased it and they were near new.They are Atlas Force brand. lts an off brand l think Chinese but the feedback l found on the Mustang forum from several members there that ran them really liked them and for the price, around $110-$120 a piece, you cant go wrong. But l have since tried to find them to purchase 2 more for the front of my car, and l can no longer find them
