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It took me almost 4 hours from start to finish to get the new shifter in, mount and fit the head unit, and modify the center area for the volume ****. Which is a game changer if you have this head unit. All in all, not that bad though. The volume **** took a bit of time for fitment and placement but i think it fits the interior pretty well.
I knew that was to easy -so being the rear camera feed on the headunit is triggered by power I assumed that by simply tieing those two wires together and splicing them to the "BACK" wire off the head unit, that each could be controlled seperately by simply applying a on/off switch on the front camera - nope! signal feeds the headunit but also powers the front camera simutaneously. No pic.
I am going to try to simply have the Front facing camera go through the video channel on the headunit powered on by Key. If i need front camera on, i will have to select it on the home screen.
Install a diode in each power wire. That will allow the power to feed in but not back out to the other camera.
I knew that was to easy -so being the rear camera feed on the headunit is triggered by power I assumed that by simply tieing those two wires together and splicing them to the "BACK" wire off the head unit, that each could be controlled seperately by simply applying a on/off switch on the front camera - nope! signal feeds the headunit but also powers the front camera simutaneously. No pic.
I am going to try to simply have the Front facing camera go through the video channel on the headunit powered on by Key. If i need front camera on, i will have to select it on the home screen.
Install a diode in each power wire. That will allow the power to feed in but not back out to the other camera. The issue is the power trigger is feeding the same head unit lead. Without a Diode, it cannot distinguish between cameras.
Install a diode in each power wire. That will allow the power to feed in but not back out to the other camera.
thanks - I wish you sent that sooner- -I wound up putting the front camera in the Video input - works great but I have to hit the screen to turn it on -
It took me almost 4 hours from start to finish to get the new shifter in, mount and fit the head unit, and modify the center area for the volume ****. Which is a game changer if you have this head unit. All in all, not that bad though. The volume **** took a bit of time for fitment and placement but i think it fits the interior pretty well.
Nice ****!
Do you have a link to where you got that? Metalman made me a sweet setup with a 3d printed **** but I like to have options
Hero Danny and RichSilvestris can we see pics of your Front Facing camera mounting. I really need to see that low chin spoiler as it approaches the curb.
I plan to order the Switch (Beat-Sonic CS3EP Front Camera Selector) now too.
Thanks in advance for your help/advice. I am staring at the wires now that the Joying is here!
ALSO for the newer units being installed now where do we relocate the tabs on the back of the LED screen?
Add should the screen snap into the HU at all, mine is just sliding in and out without any clicking in place.
MIKE
Last edited by MikeGrumbles; 11-09-2021 at 01:53 AM.
Is there an ability to record video from a front camera on this Joying unit, ie. to use as a dashcam? And then save video either to a USB drive or SD card? Either using the built-in app or a 3rd party app?
Would give piece of mind while driving to capture a not at fault accident or hit and run.
Last edited by ArmchairArchitect; 11-09-2021 at 09:24 AM.
Is there an ability to record video from a front camera on this Joying unit, ie. to use as a dashcam? And then save video either to a USB drive or SD card? Either using the built-in app or a 3rd party app?
Would give piece of mind while driving to capture a not at fault accident or hit and run.
It clips onto the mirror and the best part is you can have it show your rear camera while driving. It's a huge help and removes some of the blind spots the corvette has. I'm going to try installing mine on Thursday. My sister has one though and it works really well. Loop recording for both front and back.
MikeGrumbles -
Here's mine. It's a CrimeStopper from Crutchfield. Adhesive mount, rubbery outside with an eyeball camera that can be pointed to suit. Mine is adjusted to almost show the bumper line below. It was a tight fit. You can't see it here, but I had to bend the upper lip of the plate back to get enough mounting room.
Last edited by RichSilvestris; 11-09-2021 at 06:45 PM.
I have my head unit all connected. Does anyone else find the bluetooth having trouble connecting? LIke my phone connects via bluetooth but it wont play any music for some reason.. The radio works fine and when I connect via apple car play the bluetooth works but not if im just trying to use the regular bluetooth
Hey so do you guys like the mic that came with the unit? I tried it out and people can hear me but they said it sounds like i'm far away. I have it in front of the ambiet temperature sensor which seems close enough to my voice... should I relocate it or change it out with something better? Suggestions please!
Hey so do you guys like the mic that came with the unit? I tried it out and people can hear me but they said it sounds like i'm far away. I have it in front of the ambiet temperature sensor which seems close enough to my voice... should I relocate it or change it out with something better? Suggestions please!
Mine is clipped to the visor next to the windshield pillar. No complaints except recently when I had the visor down.
I guess I have to work on that
But at the top of the windshield pillar seems to work fine, even with the top down. Microphone
Mine is clipped to the visor next to the windshield pillar. No complaints except recently when I had the visor down.
I guess I have to work on that
But at the top of the windshield pillar seems to work fine, even with the top down.
Microphone
Huh maybe mines defective or something because I literally was talking into the mic (about 8 inches away) and I was getting quality complaints. I might try a higher quality mic and see if it makes a difference.
Check your settings. I had to adjust a setting buried in the menu somewhere as I had that far away echo type of experience with mine also. Cleared up immediately after the setting was changed. Had to do it to a different head unit in a friends car also.
As for mic location, if you don't want to clip it up, you can take the clip off, and run the wiring above the A Pillar and above the Cross Pillar at the top of the windshield, and stick the mic out of the hole where the mirror wiring comes out. Plenty of room and is all but invisible there, but pics up voices just fine for calls.
Check your settings. I had to adjust a setting buried in the menu somewhere as I had that far away echo type of experience with mine also. Cleared up immediately after the setting was changed. Had to do it to a different head unit in a friends car also.
As for mic location, if you don't want to clip it up, you can take the clip off, and run the wiring above the A Pillar and above the Cross Pillar at the top of the windshield, and stick the mic out of the hole where the mirror wiring comes out. Plenty of room and is all but invisible there, but pics up voices just fine for calls.
Thanks i'll look around for that setting, and I'll try re-routing it and i'll try at above the mirror.
Also I have another question, I have a backup camera built into my rear view mirror, so instead I was thinking about wiring up a front parking camera to the screen instead. I emailed joying if there was a way I could view the camera without putting the car in reverse and they said no. But I think it's possible, all i'd have to do is wire a switch into the trigger wire to the joying unit and then I can flip the switch and it should show me the front camera... my question is what should I wire this switch into? I don't want to accidently fry my head unit if I wire something hot and it overloads it or something.
Connected via PAC; extras installed:
- remote volume **** (with receiver connected to KEY1);
- external amplifier with subwoofer (connected via separate wire provided with PAC);
- reverse camera (with power connected via reverse lights).
Everything (Wi-fi / Bluetooth / GPS / connection with iPhone both via USB and Bluetooth) seems to be working.
"Special cases":
1. Program Switch on/off of amplifier working only for external one; failed to find native wire from BOSE amplifier, so it is always on;
2. Had front right and left back wires swapped over - suppose issue is behind BOSE, but fixed by cross-connecting PAC outputs;
3. Dimming - decided not to connect.
Connected via PAC; extras installed:
- remote volume **** (with receiver connected to KEY1);
- external amplifier with subwoofer (connected via separate wire provided with PAC);
- reverse camera (with power connected via reverse lights).
Everything (Wi-fi / Bluetooth / GPS / connection with iPhone both via USB and Bluetooth) seems to be working.
"Special cases":
1. Program Switch on/off of amplifier working only for external one; failed to find native wire from BOSE amplifier, so it is always on;
2. Had front right and left back wires swapped over - suppose issue is behind BOSE, but fixed by cross-connecting PAC outputs;
3. Dimming - decided not to connect.
Since you are running an external amp for a subwoofer, are you having issues with your subwoofer settings for the high and low filter not saving when you turn the car off? Mine resets to the default every time. Went back and forth with Joying and they said it can't be fixed. Just wondering if it's just my unit. The pic show the default setting.
Is this thing just plug and play into the USB port? And what all did you have to do to flush mount it in the traction control piece like that?
I'm also curious about how his is wired in... I know metalman has a volume **** that I purchased from him, it is powered by Arduino and it ties into the radio wiring. It works perfectly. In order to mount it near the traction control unit you need to cut the circuit board which basically will disable the airbag light (but you don't need it anyway).