My 2003 50th Aniv.( 45,000 Miles) recently had a dead battery after lights were left on, after being turned on manually. It was jump started and I drove it home. It showed it was charging on my 20 mile drive home. Once in the driveway, after shutting it off, I restarted it with no problem. a few minutes later, I tried to restart it and it sounded as if it was running on just a few cylinders. I shut it off decided I had better get a new battery, since the Optima in it, was 5 1/2 years old. After I installed the new battery, it will crank, but will not start. I checked the DIC for codes, B2282, U1064, U1255, B2587, B2592 as it had 2 codes in the 40BCM, 1 code in the 58SDM, 3 codes in the AO l DCM, 3 codes in the A1 RDCM and 1 code in the B0RFA. I reset all codes and still the same results. It cranks, but it will not start. The check engine light is on and the check gauges light is on, after the key is turned on and all indicators come on and then go out. I've checked the fuses that were mentioned in a previous Forum answer to someone else's question similar to mine. What could it be that replacing the battery or the dead battery created. Prior to that it was fine.

 

Disconnect the battery and let it sit...sometimes that will reset the codes. Look up the codes and see what they are.

 

Sounds like something got knocked loose. Also sounds like a ignition cylinder problem, do the gauges act crazy when you put the key in the ignition?

 

A symptom of a failing ignition switch can be crank no start and codes similar to those you report. Also check engine light, reduced power, flashing gauges, start but run poorly.

I would first make sure that the battery cables are tight (11 foot pounds per FSM) and that the cables when tight cannot be moved on the battery terminals. Some batteries have been found to have shallow bolt holes and when the bolts are tight, the cables are not tight against the battery.

My experience with two separate failing ignition switches is that the condition is difficult to positively diagnose. One indicator is that a shut down and restart may clear the symptoms and allow normal run of the engine for a time. Contacts in the switch become burned over time and begin to make intermittent electrical contact, sometimes on the power to ignition circuit. Try shut down and then restart a couple of times. If it starts on a second or third try I would suspect the ignition switch is failing.

This might be identified using a multimeter and confirming that there is power or not to the ignition circuits with the key on.

The original ignition switch on my car failed at 10 years and about 80,000 miles but the replacement only lasted two years and 8,000 miles. The third switch has been going eight years and 30,000 miles so far-

 

Try squirting some CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner in the ignition switch. Several years ago I had a no start problem. I squirted some cleaner in and it worked. I now do this several times a year and have no further problems.