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DieHard batteries WERE awesome. I ran them in everything except for my offshore boat (BlueTop Optimas for that.) But about 10 years ago, they just went downhill. I think the only one I still own/run is in my 1977 Lincoln Mark V; and that was a customer satisfaction replacement for the one that shlt the bed in my C5. THAT battery in my C5 was DieHard AGM which was also garbage.
I now run Napa batteries in just about everything. The store is right down the street, and they have the best warranty on the high end options, 7 years pro-rated; just like DieHard use to offer.
Most guys tend to overthink this battery debate and over exaggerate the claims. Damn near every battery these days are made up to spec/code and/or gel top. Get a Walmart battery with up to spec cranking amps for the Vette and call it a day. You do not need some fancy 200+ dollar battery....ya just don't fellas, sorry.
I went the battery mat route a couple years ago. Took out battery, trimmed mat to fit, reinstalled battery. But the lip on the bottom of the battery wouldn't fit under the flange on the battery tray that holds it down as the mat raised the battery too high for the lip to fit under the flange. So, short of modifying the hold down method, how would you keep the battery secured? Got an AGM instead.
Last edited by glbeauchamp; Dec 1, 2020 at 08:58 PM.
Regarding tenders and trickle chargers...it's almost impossible to buy a new trickle charger today that doesn't have circuitry to automatically stop "charging". The term trickle charger has mostly been replaced on the marketing side by "maintainers" or "tenders". Most have some sort of algorithm for a charging sequence and once the battery is full, they just pulse energy in to keep the battery topped off and safe. Most of the slightly better tenders also have a setting for AGM or very cold weather charging (slightly higher voltage). And some have the option for 6 volt, 12 volt, wet cell, agm or lithium. The most reliable tenders I own are made by C-Tek. Of my four Noco Genius models, one just died and will not turn on. The C-Tek on my Viper is going strong after 11 years of continuous duty.
The old fashion battery chargers were "dumb chargers" and would keep charging unless on a timer. Even 1 or 2 amps coming in continuously will damage a battery that is fully charged. Sure fire way to over heat the battery and boil out acid, potentially onto the C5's electronics. When in doubt about the batteries worthiness, remove the battery from the C5 to charge.
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I ran a Sears Diehard Platinum AGM battery in my last C5 for 7+ years - never gave me a problem. To me, it was worth the price to not have any problems with the battery. Regardless of which brand you go with, I would suggest getting an AGM battery - too many things sit right under the battery tray.
Most guys tend to overthink this battery debate and over exaggerate the claims. Damn near every battery these days are made up to spec/code and/or gel top. Get a Walmart battery with up to spec cranking amps for the Vette and call it a day. You do not need some fancy 200+ dollar battery....ya just don't fellas, sorry.
You are correct, a lead acid battery will preform just fine in a C5. Hell, maybe 1 in a thousand might fail. But you don't want to be that "1" in a C5. This is just a few pictures of those who are sorry....