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I have a 2000 Auto Vert (non performance gears) and pretty much am done with my exterior modifications, I would like to start working on performance modifications. I'm not super mechanically inclined and have been trying to read up on where to go from upgrade wise. I would like to stiffen up the suspension a little more and add more power. My car had about 80k on it when I purchased it 3 years ago and its now at around 115k. I finally got my own daily to be able to cut down on how many miles I was putting on her. I'm not too sure what my budget is yet.
I'm not sure if I should start with a cam, motor work, and suspension or if I should go slow and invest in a new rear end first. Or look at forced induction kits. I honestly don't know where to start.
My goals for the car:
450-500 HP
Daily driver in warm months in New England
Would like to start taking it to a track this summer at least once. If I really enjoy it I'd like to consistently go.
Looking for a somewhat stock driving experience.
Currently done:
JBA long tube headers
Cold air intake
Tune
QTP Cutouts
Misc Exterior Modifications
Best bang for the buck is a supercharger kit. I have an A&A kit on my black 99 and she puts down 528 HP which equates to about 620 HP. They are somewhat cheap for that HP. I see Juiced Motorsports advertise them on the forum for $6500 installed and tuned.
I also have a 2000 A4 Vert. Mine came with the G92 "performance axle", which is a 3.15 gearset. If you have the "non performance" axle, you're actually saying you have a 2.73 rear gear. This is the very first change you should make! I went to a 3.42 diff from a C5 Z06. That's what I'd do again, if I had it to do over. A 3.42 gear in an A4 C5 is a very good gearset. The 3.73/3.90 diffs work best with the M6 trans C5s. Do the 3.42 gear FIRST! It'll feel like a totally different car, trust me. Another 'while you're in there' mod I'd do is install a 3,000-3,200 stall converter. I like Yank converters. Good enough for the late John Lingenfelter, good enough for me! Had one now for 16 years. No problems. Whatever you do, if you do go with a higher stall converter, get a good trans cooler! These 2 mods aren't cheap. You'll have about 2.5G into them at this point. Next, get a $400 LS6 intake. You'll now have your car running in the low to mid 12 second 1/4 mile ets@110+mph!!
To get to a streetable 500whp, you'll need a blower or Nitrous. Of the 2, I prefer a blower. A good blower with tune is gonna probably be $5,000+ just by itself. Welcome to the modded 2000 A4 Vert world!!!.....
Last edited by Vetteman Jack; Mar 7, 2021 at 09:51 PM.
I agree with grinder11 - gears should be the first mod. Otherwise, you're not getting the full potential out of any other power mods you do. Just the gears alone with a mild tune will be very noticeable. I went from 2.73 to 3.42 and it transformed the car to what I was expecting when I first got it.
I agree with grinder11 - gears should be the first mod. Otherwise, you're not getting the full potential out of any other power mods you do. Just the gears alone with a mild tune will be very noticeable. I went from 2.73 to 3.42 and it transformed the car to what I was expecting when I first got it.
I generally agree with the suggestions for 3.42 rear drive ratio. That said, my A4 had the 3.15 rear drive and when a bearing began failing at Buttonwillow Raceway in late 2015, I had a 3.73 rear drive with WaveTrack differential installed.
For either change, you will need to have the PCM reprogrammed to provide for correct shift points with the new lower rear drive.
Since you are considering tracking your car, the following may be of interest. The most important thing to do to gain speed is SEAT TIME on track:
I've been running my 2001 A4 on the track for 11 years, 21 track days so far, 13 at Laguna Seca. The engine and transmission are STOCK, 116,000 miles so far, 42,000 during my ownership. Lessons I have learned are:
- It takes several mods to keep the transmission cool on track-
-B&M or equal finned aluminum trans pan
-DeWitts or equal radiator (Mine with engine oil cooler and Improved Racing engine oil thermostat also)
-Auxiliary trans cooler in front of the condenser
-Sac City Cool It to call up High fan coming off track
I run Red Line D4 full synthetic ATF and change fluid and filter every ten track days
I monitor transmission temperature on track with the DIC
- My car became more competitive when I changed from 3.15 Rear Drive to 3.73 with Wavetrac differential (bearing failed in 3.15 at Buttonwillow Raceway)
- I only use 2nd and 3rd on track. MANUAL SHIFTING ONLY. Remember, in 3rd it can do a surprise downshift at high lateral G and high throttle out of a turn. Preclude this by manual downshift during turn entry prior to apex, no manual upshift to 3rd until RPM is past potential auto downshift point.
- I always ease off the pace for the last cool down lap, use the Cool It upon exit, park with the hood open to cool the drivetrain between sessions. I've measured front rotor temperature at 550 deg after cool down lap and parking, so I insulated all tie rod ends and lower ball joints:
- I think stock solid brake rotors are fine and have used Hawk HP Plus pads for about 9 years. I've never been wanting for more brake authority on street or track. If you upgrade rotors, slots only, no drilled rotors for track. Lots of dust with the HP plus.
- Be sure to thoroughly flush the brakes, I have found speed bleeders to be fast and efficient. Use High temperature brake fluid with high wet boiling point, examples ATE Typ 200 or Wilwood 600 plus. Do NOT let pads wear below about 50%, the pad material is an insulator between HOT rotor and brake piston.
- While the A4 is not as efficient as a manual, I find that I can gain a car length on wide open throttle straights on upshift because I don't lift.
- I am 76 and can stay in the pack on a wet track:
+1 on the A&A Supercharger kit. I have one as well, and they are AWESOME. That combined with the mods you already have will get you to the power that you want. It will also be more streetable than a H/C/I build. I would suggest that you upgrade your shocks and sway bars to C6 Z06 shocks, and C6 Z51 sway bars. Also, the automatic transmission will have trouble with the power levels that you're looking for. You can get a Level V transmission from RPM Transmissions. That along with the A&A kit will have you right where you want to be.
Some Upgrades
