5 quarts won’t even change the oil the total is 6.2

 

So then... you just.... buy.... additional.... oil?

 

i know that, just saying what the dumbass price is here
It takes 7/L oil and filter

 

All what he said, for the same reasons

 

Quicker lube at start-up, yea, that's the ticket

 

I use 10-30. Less engine clatter noise, revs always to 7,000rpm.

I avoid Mobil, it thins out when hot. More clatter. Same viscosity using Castrol, less clatter.

 

I've always run mobile one full synthetic in my C5, on other cars run super tech oil.

Got a PT Cruiser with high mileage and decided to run mobil one full synthetic high mileage and mobil one oil filter, next oil change on C5 used mobil one oil filter, used to use AC Delco filter, Purolator.

There were no issues switching PT to synthetic, leaking or burning oil myths.

Last oil change tried the Costco Kirkland 5W-30 on PT Cruiser, $21.99 for 2 5 qt jugs, that is even cheaper than Walmart super tech non synthetic oil, $2.20 per qt, bought another mobil one oil filter to go with kirkland oil.

I have bought Mobil one 5W-30 at walmart on sale for $21.99, not on sale it's $24.97 or so.

The C5 and PT Cruiser mobil one oil filters are both $9.97 each at walmart, not a bad price.

I'm not sure about using kirkland oil in C5 yet.

From the prices I have seen local, Kirkland oil is the lowest price with rebate($11.00 each 5 qt jug), cheaper than super tech oil non synthetic, which is about $14.00 for 5 qt.

Qt of non synthetic super tech is $2.97.

While we are talking about oil, I bought a 6 pack of mobil one a few years ago, was reading even new oil unopened goes bad after 5 years, I bought this pack on sale at Costco because it was a good deal.

Anyways I never knew that unopened oil can go bad, better see if I can find date made and if ok use it up on next oil change.

 

never heard of oil going bad or a best before date, am thinking that may be a little bogus .
Kirkland needs to make 0w40

 

Shelf life of unopened Mobil 1™ quarts“Does Mobil 1™ synthetic motor oil (in an unopened quart) have any sort of shelf life, like conventional motor oil?” John Lantz, Littleton, Colorado AnswerExxonMobil recommends a five-year maximum shelf life for engine oils, including Mobil 1™ synthetic motor oil.
Maybe it's just so people throw it out and buy more.

 

hmm ok.
Or a marketing ploy.
but who keeps oil 5yrs

 

They (or you, no offense) are misinformed. Dexos is not a brand. It's a standard, employed by GM, that oils used in their cars have to meet. A Dexos oil will be fine for the car - Mobil 1 is just a sponsorship opportunity. Most dealerships use bulk oil to cut down significantly on costs.

 

Well that may be. But the part no. refers to "Dexos 1" oil and the bottles were blue, if I remember correctly, with "DEXOS" in large letters and "General Motors" in smaller letters.

 

The part number on the invoice is meaningless. They can make that say whatever they want - and often do.

Especially on common stuff like oil changes to speed things up in the parts department.

 

I wish everyone would get over this oil brand thing. It is the oil spec, weight, and how the engine was built that matters. I have been drag racing since 1963. If you have a race motor with lose clearances, then run a heavy weight oil. Most race engines run petroleum based oil. Almost all of them are broken in on petroleum based oil because synthetic is too slick and won’t let the rings seat correctly, if at all. I would worry about one thing, the spec GM recommends for the engine. If it meets that spec, and you change it on a regular basis, then your car will run for a very, very long time. By the way, the oil doesn’t wear out, it is the additives infused to the oil that goes away with use. The additive package is more important than the oil. In our race engines we always ran VR1 with a bottle of GM EOS – Their ZDDP additive. For a street or even a street track car with a factory motor it isn’t necessary to use extra ZDDP. If you bought the cheapest oil you could find, that mets the GM spec, changed it every 3K, you wouldn’t have any oil issues. I live in a hot climate and do believe in running a heaver weight oil in the summer time especially in my diesel truck I tow my race car with. Getting all caught up in oil arguments about brand and type is a waste of time. Just use oil that meets the spec and enjoy your car no matter if it is a Pinto or a C5. Well maybe the Pinto was a reach when it comes to the enjoyment factor.

 

Seemingly VR1 does work the best due to the high mercury in high performance applications but I found the gm Dexos and mobile1 which is calls for works just fine . I tried penz this last time also works fine …I’ll be staying with the vr1 though

 

I was glad to see this contribution. I don't mind others opinions, but need a better reason to support the offered opinions other than it hasn't blown anything up yet. I doubt if any modern oil would have a breakdown leading to engine failure if used reasonably.

to me it is the internal wear characteristics that matter, not catastrophic failure, so I stick within the design specifications for this most crucial part.

Often overlooked when considering oil , is the engine was designed as a system, with the oil used as a temperature carrier for those areas where the engine coolant flashes to steam and then returns to liquid as it moves on. I don't consider myself knowledgable enough to start inventing changes to a well designed system.

The poster who thought his oil was too thin trigged my response. I don't argue his happiness with his opinion, I just wouldn't want to be the next owner of a car consistently running out of design specs in this area. Because I have often read posts about the LS engine eating oil as somewhat normal , according to GM, by those who always cite what GM has to say on the issue, and understand why GM would promote that as OK. But, my car, purchased used, uses very little oil, as I understand is normal with the machining used in modern smog controlled engine construction.

I always feel the oil on the dip stick to see how it is doing, but the engine oil life monitor is completely competent, so I go with that, and change it a bit before indicated, usually by a good margin.

when I called the mobil 1 helpline, one of the items discussed was the additive packages are now designed to fit the newer engines, and the C5 is better served with an additive package that is more in line with the older design.

They did mention that the zero viscosity oil would have no benefit unless I was in arctic temps, as they all flow the same at the same temps. They suggested the simple solution of buying the high milage mobil 1 as it has a more old fashioned anti wear package, but I would submit that the better answer is found in the more detailed research posted above. I am a better answer type of guy, but would be fine with buying whatever reasonable fit was on the shelf .

Apparently, catalytic convertors wear faster with some of the anti wear agents, so one of the priorities of newer engine designs was to make the valve mechanisms a little less severe in lubrication needs to help protect this expensive part . I would suppose a less severe angle would spin better, and support the primary design goal of fuel efficiency, but I am hardly knowledgable enough to get into a discussion about engine or oil design.

I do know a bit about following the design specifications, from working with ships engineers ,some of whom had the advanced training and intelligence to achieve some very responsible positions and advanced paychecks, and they all followed the book, along with any updates, to the book.

Of course, those guys also had a secondary motivation besides doing the job well. If any catastrophic failure happened , they would be answering to lawyers about why they were running the systems outside of design specs. Any questionable decision, even an informed superior system change, had the potential to cut into valuable vacation time, so anything that might involve answering legal questions ashore was avoided like warm beer.

I wish only the best to all, even those who hold a contrary oil opinion and might need to be whipped into shape with a dipstick to the head from a less forgiving man , and also to those few who put conventional oil into an LS design and feel they have outsmarted all those synthetic oil guys who fell for the hype, because the car runs just fine, thank you. I don't question results.

 

Oil threads should just auto delete at this point.

 

I've run Mobil1 0w-40 for over 15 years, way before it was available in the 5qt pails. Great oil. ALL oil thins out at high temps, I don't care what gimmicks bean counters use to peddle their 'latest gimmicks'. I look at all this oil talk as talk. 50 years ago-A HALF CENTURY-Car engines went at least 100,000 miles. Oils capabilities to do its job have developed leaps and bounds in that time. The worst synthetic oil today would probably be vastly superior to the best non synthetic oil of 50 years ago, and THAT oil was good enough for Formula 1 engines to run at the Indy 500, and good enough for that 100,000 mile motor mentioned previously ..........

 

Look up Project Farm on youtube. He tests many oils against each other and Amsoil comes out on top. Mobil 1 is OK, but far from the best. Good enough for our cars, sure.

 

Im going to keep it right to the point. You guys that lose sleep over what oil and filter to use is weird. You guys change ur oil so often that u cant put vegetage oil in and it would be fine..

I said this before i will never change my oil under 15k. If i did, now thats what u lose sleep over.