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Old Jun 3, 2021 | 04:26 PM
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Default Jacking points

I’m asking this because of a thread on one of the C5 groups on FB where someone is contending that the ‘lift points’ and jacking points are different. He insists that a c5 should be lifted from either end by the cradles. Since the real experts are here, I thought I’d get some input.
Thanks in advance!
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Old Jun 3, 2021 | 04:35 PM
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The car came from the factory with a spot on each side for the jacking pucks.
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Old Jun 3, 2021 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Denny Kohlman
The car came from the factory with a spot on each side for the jacking pucks.
Which is what I’ve been using since my first C5 in 2011. This guy is disputing those spots, where I have the ‘leave in’ plastic pucks.
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Old Jun 3, 2021 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by chasboy
Which is what I’ve been using since my first C5 in 2011. This guy is disputing those spots, where I have the ‘leave in’ plastic pucks.
He apparently doesn’t know what he’s talking about. I’ve always heard that you shouldn’t jack the car at the cradles.
My jacking pucks are permanently in place and that’s the only place I can lift mine, with a floor jack, as it is so low.



Last edited by lewislgZ06; Jun 3, 2021 at 05:22 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2021 | 05:11 PM
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Old Jun 3, 2021 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Smoken1
Excellent post
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Old Jun 3, 2021 | 05:41 PM
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So what is the truth? Have I been jacking mine all wrong along with tons of other C5 owners? That’s the same chart the guy on FB posted.
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Old Jun 3, 2021 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by chasboy
Which is what I’ve been using since my first C5 in 2011. This guy is disputing those spots, where I have the ‘leave in’ plastic pucks.

OMG he should get a life. You are not hurting the car in any way lifting it at the 4 designated lift points. Now if you lifted the car at one of these points, put a stand under it and left it that way all winter for example, well that would damage things, and would also be incredibly stupid....
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Old Jun 3, 2021 | 06:57 PM
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Hmmm....maybe that's what the person was thinking? I never thought of it that way exactly, but I always thought it was more a question of "how long are you going to leave it like that" that might drive a more preferred point for something? In other words, if you were to like the car and leave it on all 4 of the jacking points all winter....I would presume that's ok as there is no other force acting. But if you were to lift the car by one point at the jacking point, maybe that wouldn't be the best for a whole winter. I don't know, I've never seen a real study on something like that. But according to the diagram, I read it more like 1- some points are considered more preferred (but why?) but it doesn't really matter in the end as long as you use a designated point.
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Old Jun 3, 2021 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Smoken1
I don't see how you could ever jack it up from the preferred locations with a floor jack. I have a very long reach ultra low profile floor jack and it does not reach the front preferred points. I haven't had a reason to try the rear preferred point.

I own an auto shop with 9 lifts, 8 of which are two posters and one is a four post alignment rack. None of my 2 poster arms will fit under the car with the jacking pads in place. For most stuff I'll just drive it onto the alignment rack or use a floor jack and jack stands. The one time I put it on a 2 post lift, I had to drive up onto 2x4s in order to fit the arms underneath.
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Old Jun 3, 2021 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 1wholikescars
Hmmm....maybe that's what the person was thinking? I never thought of it that way exactly, but I always thought it was more a question of "how long are you going to leave it like that" that might drive a more preferred point for something? In other words, if you were to like the car and leave it on all 4 of the jacking points all winter....I would presume that's ok as there is no other force acting. But if you were to lift the car by one point at the jacking point, maybe that wouldn't be the best for a whole winter. I don't know, I've never seen a real study on something like that. But according to the diagram, I read it more like 1- some points are considered more preferred (but why?) but it doesn't really matter in the end as long as you use a designated point.
For sure leaving it on 4 stands for a prolonged time is fine, but any uneven position for a long time could ultimately twist or throw things out of line, for example by lifting one of the 4 points you are transferring weight on to the springs on the opposite side of the car, depressing them. These modern frames and suspensions and light years ahead of earlier generations, but not immune from abuse or doing stupid stuff.......
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Old Jun 3, 2021 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by VETFEVER
For sure leaving it on 4 stands for a prolonged time is fine, but any uneven position for a long time could ultimately twist or throw things out of line, for example by lifting one of the 4 points you are transferring weight on to the springs on the opposite side of the car, depressing them. These modern frames and suspensions and light years ahead of earlier generations, but not immune from abuse or doing stupid stuff.......
I doubt you can permanently deform the Corvettes frame by just jacking it up by the lifting points. Unless you are bending the fame enough to exceed the elastic limit of the frame it won't be permanently deformed. I know when I jack up my PT Cruiser convertible by it's lifting points the door opens and closes hard because the chassis is bending. Once it's retuned to the ground the doors work fine. Maybe one of the mechanical engineers can better explain the stresses.
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Old Jun 4, 2021 | 08:43 AM
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What is really different is all the current and former Corvette suspension and performance engineers in our club who race C5-C7 Corvettes, jack up their race cars at one point in the middle of the "Y" width and change tires or work at the track (with jack stands). They all talk about how rigid the frame is and also that the company now ships the Corvettes and other cars with over the wheel tie downs and not using the J-points. My self, I use the front jacking point (BMW covers) and lift the car high enough to change both front and rear on that side of the car.
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Old Jun 4, 2021 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 15W40
I don't see how you could ever jack it up from the preferred locations with a floor jack. I have a very long reach ultra low profile floor jack and it does not reach the front preferred points. I haven't had a reason to try the rear preferred point.

I own an auto shop with 9 lifts, 8 of which are two posters and one is a four post alignment rack. None of my 2 poster arms will fit under the car with the jacking pads in place. For most stuff I'll just drive it onto the alignment rack or use a floor jack and jack stands. The one time I put it on a 2 post lift, I had to drive up onto 2x4s in order to fit the arms underneath.
My vette is lowered and I can still get a low profile jack to the diff brace to lift the rear, no extra room, but I do it regularly.
To lift the front, I just drive onto a couple 2x10's, lift from the front puck spot just a bit, and then I can get the jack under the front crossmember.
As stated, don't leave it lifted cockeyed and you'll be fine
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Old Jun 9, 2021 | 09:05 AM
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Thanks everyone!
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Old Jun 9, 2021 | 10:34 AM
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I think this is determined by the method of lifting.
1) Shop lift or Quickjack
2) Floor jack
Technically, I don't think the guy is wrong.
Before I bought my Quickjack, I used to raise either the front or the back with two floor jacks evenly to proper height, then place jack stands at the the Red & Green locations in the diagram.

I tried one time to raise the car at just one puck location at a time and I did NOT like the way that was going, that was not a normal lift procedure and I could see how that can put stress on the vehicle frame/components .
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Old Jun 9, 2021 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Denny Kohlman
The car came from the factory with a spot on each side for the jacking pucks.
Actually TWO spots on each side.....
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