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There are two VERY important parts in your car that keep you from having a very bad experience, Brakes and Tires. If your go to mechanic says replace both routers and pads, just do it. No brainier for me since I trust my mechanic. BTW, had my rears replace in 2019 at 44K with pads and routers.
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Originally Posted by Stingroo
If he's got one of those newer style on-car lathes, it'll be quick and easy. I genuinely wouldn't worry about it. We use them every day at the dealership.
If he's got one of those newer style on-car lathes, it'll be quick and easy. I genuinely wouldn't worry about it. We use them every day at the dealership.
Originally Posted by Smoken1
We used them all the time
Thanks guys. That actually makes me feel much better about it.
Those are decent. If they don't work for you, reach out to Ken at KNS Brakes for a solid recommendation.
Originally Posted by runner140*
They are really a good aggressive pad
I'm not looking forward to the extra dust. However, the carbon ceramic pads I'm running just aren't safe for my occasional spirited driving. Low dust, but the brake fade is real!
Okay, I got the brakes done yesterday. As it turns out, I'm actually pretty glad that my guy insisted on resurfacing my rotors. When he put them on the brake lathe, it became very clear that they had some minor warping. I got to watch the process, and there is no doubt that I ended up with a better surface than what I had. It turns out that my brake fluid was in better shape than I thought, but it was still a good idea to change it. It was a bit of a challenge to properly bed the new pads as the process for doing so is virtually impossible to do if there is any traffic around you at all. However, I did manage to do it. The new pads certainly have a bit more bite. However, I'll wait until my oil leak is resolved before properly testing how well they handle high heat. Thank you to everyone who posted in the poll.
As a long time Toolmaker, I would like to add something. ANY machining process will leave small grooves, some so small you'll need a magnifying glass, or microscope, to see them. Also, a "blunt" tool in a turning process, such as a toolbit on a lathe, is not the most desirable thing to have! The greater area of contact will amplify any 'play' in the system, and promote tool 'chatter'. Sure, you generally don't want a pinpoint contact (except maybe when turning threads), but you don't want a large area just to avoid lines. Even grinding wheels leave microscopic lines! Nothing wrong with having a slight amount of lines on your rotors. The bedding in process will eliminate them, and the pad will wear into/bed in to whatever small valleys may be left. Having lines 90° to the rotor would be a different story, and would probably be undesirable. For this reason, I usually don't resurface my rotors, unless I have pulsing, no matter what may be causing the pulsing.......
Last edited by grinder11; Jul 27, 2021 at 04:17 PM.