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UPDATE: The LS7 Z06 clutch is installed! Now check this out, while the clutch "kit" was back ordered, the individual components were available! So I bought the kit piecemeal and received it in about 6 calendar days. This clutch is wonderful. There is a little smell and heat, but it seems to be dissipating quickly. As someone posted, the clutch engaged close to the floor, but after only 50 miles I can feel it start to come up a tad. Also, I no longer have driveshaft rattle (I'm not sure what aspect or components of this repair contributed to this, but I welcome the change!)
In addition to the clutch and hydraulic components, I added a Katech KAT-A6503 remote bleeder covered with a DEI 10403 Remote Bleeder Heat Sleeve, and Dorman 935-101 12mm Drive Shaft Couplers. The original couplers were not cracked but the rubber had hardened.
My 2004 is on the rack with the driveline out for a clutch hydraulics re-do, and we discovered a new clutch is called for. I want to upgrade, but only a step or two. Stock engine m6 now, some plans for 400+ in the future.
I have looked high and low for a LS7 Z06 kit and a McLeod Street Pro 75157 kit. BUT HAVE FOUND NADA, ZIP…. Scoggin -Dickey says 2-3 weeks and McLeod 3-4 weeks. Trying to stay in the $600 range, but geez…
Last edited by vette4fl; Sep 30, 2021 at 01:03 PM.
Reason: update to information
Everyone uses monster. Scoggin is just a supplier. Go to the manufacturer. Call them direct.
Appreciate the info. Indeed, I have read their name mentioned on the forum. Their kits are quite a bit more expensive, but If I can’t find an alternative I might have to pull the trigger…
I think every clutch out there has someone who's had a bad experience with it, but I cannot recommend Monster for QC reasons. It does drive very easily, of course.
Unless you are making north of 450 HP at the engine, the LS6 clutch is the one to use, the LS7 is good for higher HP. Also the LS7 clutch weighs more and causes many to have a stiffer pedal.
Lots of LS7 clutch fans on the forum, both from GM and LUK. Common notes are that the flywheel has more mass, so a tad less throttle response but with a corresponding resistance to off idle stall; the need to measure the throw out bearing to clutch finger space is more critical; pedal effort may be slightly more; and that pedal engagement will be closer to the floor at first, working back to nominal over a short period of time.
Unless you are making north of 450 HP at the engine, the LS6 clutch is the one to use, the LS7 is good for higher HP. Also the LS7 clutch weighs more and causes many to have a stiffer pedal.
I looked on line from GM Parts and it stated the 2004 Z06 and Base clutches were discontinued. Maybe they are available somewhere else, but I have been on the phone for two days and could not locate those or just about anything else. In the meantime my car is in the air with no parts on the way. Clutches seem to be out of stock in many places. McCleod is out for a few weeks, Monster has them but they are close to $900 out the door. Scoggin-Dickey GM Parts advertises a LS7 clutch package (clutch/pressure plate/flywheel/bolts) for about $550, but those are out of stock as well!
News Update! On a hunch, I called Scoggin-Dickey back and found that while the "kit" is out of stock, the individual components are IN STOCK, so I went ahead and ordered the LS7 components on that basis. While I was at it I also ordered a set of Dorman torque tube couplers from Tick Performance. The shop is also changing out the slave and master cylinders, and adding the Katech remote bleeder.
If you can afford to wait a few weeks the McLeod seems to be a good option for just a bit more money. I considered the LUK alternative but some bad reviews on the condition of the delivered parts--and my gut--said no bueno.
Last edited by vette4fl; Sep 16, 2021 at 02:58 PM.
Lots of LS7 clutch fans on the forum, both from GM and LUK. Common notes are that the flywheel has more mass, so a tad less throttle response but with a corresponding resistance to off idle stall; the need to measure the throw out bearing to clutch finger space is more critical; pedal effort may be slightly more; and that pedal engagement will be closer to the floor at first, working back to nominal over a short period of time.
I think every clutch out there has someone who's had a bad experience with it, but I cannot recommend Monster for QC reasons. It does drive very easily, of course.
How much over 400? 400 is fine with LS6 clutch.
I'm thinking about headers, good street/daily driver cam. So....maybe 400-430 ? With a set of 3.90s or 4.10s that should wet my whistle. I'm retired, drive about 3K miles a year, and don't do burnouts or race. Probably 90% of my driving is below 60 MPH, so I don't care about top end. My 1000Hp racing days are behind me, but I would like going through the gears in a spirited, but non-violent way.
I bought my OEM clutch via gmpartsdirect. Only took three months to arrive. Or was it four? Wait so long that I seriously contemplated canceling the order to get an in-stock clutch from someone else, until I re-read the restock fee and policy. It's huge, and that the part is nowhere to be found has no effect on that. I, for one, will never, ever, do business with them again, and recommend the same to others.
I bought my OEM clutch via gmpartsdirect. Only took three months to arrive. Or was it four? Wait so long that I seriously contemplated canceling the order to get an in-stock clutch from someone else, until I re-read the restock fee and policy. It's huge, and that the part is nowhere to be found has no effect on that. I, for one, will never, ever, do business with them again, and recommend the same to others.
I too have purchased from GM Parts Direct and indeed delivery was anything but fast. Still they were hard to find parts and they eventually showed up.
Thanks for the info, but I already went with Scoggin-Dickey. Prices between the two are comparable, but appear different because SD prices include shipping, whereas GM Parts Direct adds shipping cost at checkout.