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Hi, I have an 02 Convertible. I need to buy a floor jack to R/R the tires. What is the height minimum when the jack is fully lowered to get so it fits under the car?
Any brand preference. Thank you for your help. Frank
Hi, I have an 02 Convertible. I need to buy a floor jack to R/R the tires. What is the height minimum when the jack is fully lowered to get so it fits under the car?
Any brand preference. Thank you for your help. Frank
This is the one I got from Harbor Freight. It’s got a thin rubber pad on the lifting point that holds the pucks in place. The lifting pad also fits the rear subframe perfectly. It’s about 3 1/2 inches off the floor to the top of the lifting pad.
Depends if you're going in from the side or front/back.
I have 4.5" on the sides with jacking pucks in. From the front, I don't even think there's a jack low enough, you'll need to drive onto ramps or wood etc. In that case the clearance you need depends on what you've driven onto.
I believe low profile jacks are 3.25" and they'll be your best bet.
If you’ve got a big job and need the car in the air for a while, the quick jacks are great. I don’t think it’s worth the time dragging them out and hooking everything up for some things. Even though I’ve got the jacks I still use my floor jack more than anything.
If you’ve got a big job and need the car in the air for a while, the quick jacks are great. I don’t think it’s worth the time dragging them out and hooking everything up for some things. Even though I’ve got the jacks I still use my floor jack more than anything.
That's why I just leave them on the floor and keep them under the car. They are always hooked up and ready to use.
I tell people all the time of your are going to set them up, and then use them, and then put them away every time, you will probably end up hating them in the long run.
It replaces the removable metal pad on a regular jack. It goes up into the frame slot, so there's no chance of slipping off the jack or similar. For the front, I drive onto a piece of 2x8 board to get clearance (car is dropped on OEM bolts). I also have one of the low profile Harbor Freight jacks - very useful and very cheap when on sale.
Any of the Harbor Freight aluminum jacks will do the job. I have the 3 ton and it fits under my lowered C5 with ease with enough height to place stands, too.
Similar to others here, I run the Harbor Freight low profile aluminum floor jacks, but I tend to use them in pairs to limit how much twist I put to the frame. I know the frame is stiff and such, but I just would rather to lift either one end or one side at a time: https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ack-64545.html
I've used both the generic aluminum twist lock jacking pads and the fixed in place aluminum pads -- I really like the fixed aluminum pads now that I've used them. If I need both ends of the car in the air at the same time, I rent time on a twin post lift at a local DIY garage.
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I bought an aluminum racing jack made by Pittsburgh Automotive from my local Harbor Freight. Has worked very well and easily fits under the sides of the C5.
One of the critical considerations is the amount of lift, some floor jacks barely manage a functional working distance . I also went to a close by harbor freight for a floor jack, they had a selection on display from which to choose, and I selected the low profile steel jack, the front was thin and the lift was the highest they sold. Most auto parts stores had only one jack, usually with a short lifting arm, for sale.
I use simple DIY wooden ramps to raise my lowered car enough to get the jack underneath.
While I appreciated having a selection on display to make shopping easier , now that I know the merchandise better I would have gotten a set , with matching jack and jack stands. my mismatched stuff works fine, but looks very shade tree mechanic . Although that is the true situation, I try to avoid a handyman mindset.
One of the critical considerations is the amount of lift, some floor jacks barely manage a functional working distance . I also went to a close by harbor freight for a floor jack, they had a selection on display from which to choose, and I selected the low profile steel jack, the front was thin and the lift was the highest they sold. Most auto parts stores had only one jack, usually with a short lifting arm, for sale.
I use simple DIY wooden ramps to raise my lowered car enough to get the jack underneath.
While I appreciated having a selection on display to make shopping easier , now that I know the merchandise better I would have gotten a set , with matching jack and jack stands. my mismatched stuff works fine, but looks very shade tree mechanic . Although that is the true situation, I try to avoid a handyman mindset.
I have 2 of the $59 Harbor Freight jacks and lift both sides and pack the Jack stands. The rear only needs one Jack to raise the axle with a 2x4 in the center section. Also I have stay in place jacking plugs so no time lost trying to locate them. With two sets of tires/wheels (8), it become a 15-20 minute job to change tires.
I have one of these plus another Harbor Freight low profile jack (not long reach). Harbor Freight almost always have jacks on sale and would wait until they do before purchasing..
Does the low pro long reach let you jack the front without needing ramps? Flex the air dam out of the way or something?
I don’t think anything fits under the front without at least one or two boards under the tires. Do you want some plans for an axel cradle and wood ramps?
I've made my own plan for ramps, but I would like exact measurements on cradles or whatever people use on things like rear cross member, and hear about how people use jack stands after jacking front or rear up.