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I have a 2003 50th Anniversary coupe automatic. I bought it new back then. Shortly after purchase I had an SS3200 stall torque converter and 3.42 gears installed. A few years later I had STS turbos installed. I’ve been driving it that way all this time and the car now has over 95K miles, no issues.
I’m now thinking of reverting the torque converter back to stock (1800 stall) while keeping the 3.42 gears. The 3200 stall feels loose for me as I don’t drive the car as aggressively as before.
Any thoughts about going back to a stock torque converter with 3.42 gears.
I have a 2003 50th Anniversary coupe automatic. I bought it new back then. Shortly after purchase I had an SS3200 stall torque converter and 3.42 gears installed. A few years later I had STS turbos installed. I’ve been driving it that way all this time and the car now has over 95K miles, no issues.
I’m now thinking of reverting the torque converter back to stock (1800 stall) while keeping the 3.42 gears. The 3200 stall feels loose for me as I don’t drive the car as aggressively as before.
Any thoughts about going back to a stock torque converter with 3.42 gears.
why not split the difference? Something like 2500. Or maybe the converter is failing. Might be worth a call to a converter manufacturer…
You don't want a stock converter just on basic principle of them being more inefficient, heavier, more unbalanced, than a proper performance unit.
I recommend a 9.5" Converter from Yank, ask them for the lowest possible stall. Which is still above OEM original stall.
It is lighter so like a lightweight flywheel engine can accelerate easier (frees up hp).
I think it is more efficient so less power input required to reach the same power throughput (it loses less energy than an OEM converter, output more torque per engine torque).
That is what I used in my 700hp daily , 4l80e Yank SS 2800 lowest stall, best economy
1900 stall, right on the money! I’ve used a similar stall and they are great for street driving. Mine did not have lock up, but I didn’t notice that.
Like the thread said, enough stall to prevent creep, drive more or less like stock, but let’s you build rpm if you launch it. Got to remember this is a street car that occasionally goes to the drag strip; not a race car you could drive on the street.
1800-2500 stall makes a big difference over stock and is hardly noticeable under normal driving conditions.
I would like to add that’s it’s a kick when putting along the freeway and you stab it and the tach swings up and the car just flies!
A 2800 stall 9.5" drives like normal a stock 1900rpm stall does, but with better economy because it is lighter.
You can't really directly compare stall numbers between different diameter converters. And you can't look at stall speed as if it was the sole proprietor of economy- it isn't. The weight of the converter matters far more than it's stall speed in general (power & economy throughput, no downside) So whether my vehicle is a fully decked out 2000hp daily driver race car or a regular 200hp economy car I still want the lightest converter, for economy, for power, no downside 200hp or 2000hp
"the weight makes a big difference no matter how much power you are making" -me
OP might want to get a tune so the converter will lock up at part throttle in lower rpm range. Changing the converter is not only a fair amount of work, and you'd be going to a lower performance setup. My .02......