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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 11:41 AM
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Default c5 switched power

Am looking for a power source when car is running only. for wideband, don t want an On or Acc source, am sure there is a link or thread somewhere,
but haven t come across it yet.

thanks
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 01:26 PM
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Can't help you directly, but for such a power source on different cars I tapped the fuel pump power terminal. Granted I hooked a relay up to it so as to avoid adding any real extra load (widebands use a heater that may have a decent current draw).
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 02:21 PM
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If your car is a 97-03 you will have the 3 wires down by the BCM just for stuff like this
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...foot-well.html
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Smoken1
If your car is a 97-03 you will have the 3 wires down by the BCM just for stuff like this
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...foot-well.html
If I'm understanding that thread right, it covers switched accessory power, which OP mentioned he doesn't want for a wideband (and I agree that's not a good choice).
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by MetalMan2
If I'm understanding that thread right, it covers switched accessory power, which OP mentioned he doesn't want for a wideband (and I agree that's not a good choice).
1 is switched power, 1 is constant power and 1 is a ground
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 04:22 PM
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I understand what you're saying, but I don't know if I want to put in switch power or not, I think not. I'd rather just have power to it when the car is running because sometimes I'm messing around with other stuff and the key is on and the sensors going to heat up and if I start the car up without thinking about it it's going to eventually burn the sensor out in a very short time.
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by walleyejack
I understand what you're saying, but I don't know if I want to put in switch power or not, I think not. I'd rather just have power to it when the car is running because sometimes I'm messing around with other stuff and the key is on and the sensors going to heat up and if I start the car up without thinking about it it's going to eventually burn the sensor out in a very short time.
100% agree, an accessory switched power source is not what you're after. I don't have any wire diagrams or fuse diagrams handy, but if you can locate a fuel pump fuse or relay then IMO that would be the way to go. Just run the wideband to it through a relay so you don't add extra load to the fuel pump wiring/relay.
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by walleyejack
I understand what you're saying, but I don't know if I want to put in switch power or not, I think not. I'd rather just have power to it when the car is running because sometimes I'm messing around with other stuff and the key is on and the sensors going to heat up and if I start the car up without thinking about it it's going to eventually burn the sensor out in a very short time.
I'm confused. On is on whether the engine is running or not.

I have my wideband hooked up to ignition on and not accessory power utilizing the wires mentioned in the thread above.
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Black
I'm confused. On is on whether the engine is running or not.

I have my wideband hooked up to ignition on and not accessory power utilizing the wires mentioned in the thread above.
yrs on is on, not what I want. I want power to it only when running. Having key on, and not running is heating sensor for no reason, and possibly causing failure.
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by walleyejack
yrs on is on, not what I want. I want power to it only when running. Having key on, and not running is heating sensor for no reason, and possibly causing failure.

No offense intended but I really think you are over thinking this. My wideband (AEM) is coming up on 4 years old and has never given me a reason to think it's out of range. I was just tuning with it today as a matter of fact.

I know people that have left their widebands on on accident (hardwired with switch) until the battery died and didn't do any damage to it.
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Black
No offense intended but I really think you are over thinking this. My wideband (AEM) is coming up on 4 years old and has never given me a reason to think it's out of range. I was just tuning with it today as a matter of fact.

I know people that have left their widebands on on accident (hardwired with switch) until the battery died and didn't do any damage to it.
certainly no offense taken sir. You're probably right I'm overthinking it. I've read too much I guess, you leave the key on you mess around you do stuff the sensor gets heated up and then you start the car and the cold exhaust kills it. So I have read anyways I'll probably just wired into the on position and be done with it. My next thing I'm researching is how to wire it in so it is recording on my laptop. I'm not spending $259 on Pro features just to get prolink, for a lot of stuff that doesn't work apparently.
thanks to everyone for all their input
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 07:43 PM
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I read mine using a serial to USB cable direct into hp tuners with out the pro nonsense.

I also recommend hooking it up via a relay. Especially if using the wires in the passenger foot well as a convenient trigger.
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Black
I read mine using a serial to USB cable direct into hp tuners with out the pro nonsense.

I also recommend hooking it up via a relay. Especially if using the wires in the passenger foot well as a convenient trigger.
thank you Mr B. I eas leaning that way, bit of slice an splice, but that s ok.
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Old Aug 15, 2022 | 12:59 PM
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Took a little weekend hiatus, apologies for the delayed response.

Originally Posted by Mr. Black
I'm confused. On is on whether the engine is running or not.

I have my wideband hooked up to ignition on and not accessory power utilizing the wires mentioned in the thread above.
Well, in this thread we're now talking about 3 different switched power options:
  1. Accessory, i.e. when key is in accessory position and mostly only the radio is powered.
  2. Key-ON, key in 'on' position. Most systems are powered up, but fuel pump only turns on for a couple seconds.
  3. Engine running, same as key-ON plus fuel pump is running. It's not necessarily the same as key-ON. I presume the fuel pump relay / fuse could be tapped somewhere to access this as a signal source for a relay.
    • This is what should power a wideband IMO.
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Old Aug 15, 2022 | 01:57 PM
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i have it cyphered out.. am going to use #22 in the foot well.
thanks to everyone .
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Old Aug 15, 2022 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by MetalMan2
Took a little weekend hiatus, apologies for the delayed response.



Well, in this thread we're now talking about 3 different switched power options:
  1. Accessory, i.e. when key is in accessory position and mostly only the radio is powered.
  2. Key-ON, key in 'on' position. Most systems are powered up, but fuel pump only turns on for a couple seconds.
  3. Engine running, same as key-ON plus fuel pump is running. It's not necessarily the same as key-ON. I presume the fuel pump relay / fuse could be tapped somewhere to access this as a signal source for a relay.
    • This is what should power a wideband IMO.
Key ON.. nothing happens, no power anywehere, need to go to ACC to get fuel pump power and everywhere else.
thanks MM for your help.
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Old Aug 15, 2022 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by MetalMan2
Took a little weekend hiatus, apologies for the delayed response.



Well, in this thread we're now talking about 3 different switched power options:
  1. Accessory, i.e. when key is in accessory position and mostly only the radio is powered.
  2. Key-ON, key in 'on' position. Most systems are powered up, but fuel pump only turns on for a couple seconds.
  3. Engine running, same as key-ON plus fuel pump is running. It's not necessarily the same as key-ON. I presume the fuel pump relay / fuse could be tapped somewhere to access this as a signal source for a relay.
    • This is what should power a wideband IMO.

That's all fine and dandy but I'd have a guess that less than 1 in a thousand widebands are hooked up that way. There are reasons outlined below on why you may need your wideband already on before cranking.

My intercooler pump and wideband are triggered off of fuse 22 as in the foot well as well.

I only have my double din head unit triggered off of the funky plug also in the passenger foot well.

I still contend don't over think this.

Also people that are doing serious tuning with their cars often like to have their widebands on a switch to tune start problems hot or cold. You are never going to be able to do this with the wideband set to engine running only.

As it is using a relay off of fuse 22 to power my wideband when I'm tuning start and cranking issues I have to install a jumper in the relay so the damn thing will be on when I need it to be on.
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Old Aug 15, 2022 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Black
That's all fine and dandy but I'd have a guess that less than 1 in a thousand widebands are hooked up that way. There are reasons outlined below on why you may need your wideband already on before cranking.

My intercooler pump and wideband are triggered off of fuse 22 as in the foot well as well.

I only have my double din head unit triggered off of the funky plug also in the passenger foot well.

I still contend don't over think this.

Also people that are doing serious tuning with their cars often like to have their widebands on a switch to tune start problems hot or cold. You are never going to be able to do this with the wideband set to engine running only.

As it is using a relay off of fuse 22 to power my wideband when I'm tuning start and cranking issues I have to install a jumper in the relay so the damn thing will be on when I need it to be on.
Which WB brand are you using ? I have read a lot of reviews and watched videos., seems to be always the same ones, maybe these are paid reviews ?
Let me know what works for you please.
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Old Aug 15, 2022 | 10:22 PM
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Common AEM 30-0300 X-Series Wideband UEGO AFR Sensor
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