Security chime when door open.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 136
Likes: 14
From: Plainfield, IL
Security chime when door open.
When I open the drivers door, engine off, security system off, the "Security" dash light flashes and the chime comes on, as if I am violating the security system.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 93
Likes: 12
Well I guess I was hoping for some other answer, as watching many You Tube videos and when the drivers door is opened, there is no chiming . So that is why I thought there was something wrong with my car. Or maybe the security system, or is there a door switch that is not being activated to indicate to the car there is no breach of security. I guess Im just grabbing at straws here.
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^ those are the only times I remember my C5 acting that way.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 23
Likes: 22
From: Central Ohio
There may be other explanations for this problem, but GM put out a TSB that sounds like this very issue. When the symptoms are present, they are remedied by replacing the lock cylinder. According to the TSB, the column lock factors into the equation, too, which makes me wonder if a column lock bypass might help (assuming you don’t already have one). Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in (no pun intended!).
Chime Sounds with Key Out
Chime Sounds with Key Out
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 93
Likes: 12
Larry, just checking for that now the DIC reads: Odometer Reading 71,515.
And drchesler, the link you provided seems to not be in service at this time, so I will search for this TSB. I was starting to think it might be the ignition switch.
I will follow up with you all when I get more to report.
Thanks, Denny
And drchesler, the link you provided seems to not be in service at this time, so I will search for this TSB. I was starting to think it might be the ignition switch.
I will follow up with you all when I get more to report.
Thanks, Denny
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Advanced
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 93
Likes: 12
So guys, I've decided one of two actions.
1. replace the ignition switch
2. dissassemble the ignition switch to gain access to the contacts , then clean all the contact points.
Any thoughts which way is the better choice? Saving the money on the switch is ok, but if its going to present a problem down the road, then I would much rather buy a new switch now.
Thanks, Denny
1. replace the ignition switch
2. dissassemble the ignition switch to gain access to the contacts , then clean all the contact points.
Any thoughts which way is the better choice? Saving the money on the switch is ok, but if its going to present a problem down the road, then I would much rather buy a new switch now.
Thanks, Denny
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 756
Likes: 172
From: SC
Sounds like your keys are still in causing an alert key in ignition. You didn't mention keys in ignition or out.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 469
Likes: 162
From: Port Birmingham AL
I believe it is the ignition switch. There is a button (for the like of a better name) on the end of the lock cylinder that
operates a plunger to the contacts in the ignition switch. There are 3 small wires on the ignition switch connectors, Tan, Black, Green/Black Stripe.
With the key Out, Black and Tan are connected. (No Chime with door open)
With the key In, Black and Green/Black are connected. (Chime with door open)
Since the two pieces operate together, the problem could be the lock cylinder button OR the ignition switch.
Larry
operates a plunger to the contacts in the ignition switch. There are 3 small wires on the ignition switch connectors, Tan, Black, Green/Black Stripe.
With the key Out, Black and Tan are connected. (No Chime with door open)
With the key In, Black and Green/Black are connected. (Chime with door open)
Since the two pieces operate together, the problem could be the lock cylinder button OR the ignition switch.
Larry
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 93
Likes: 12
Thanks Larry.
And I forgot to mention that when this happens, the key is out of the lock cylinder.
I think I will remove the ign switch and repair the contacts to see if that works. Once you have taken the counsel and bezel off, it's not such a big job to do it again.
When I get this done I will report to everyone who was gracious enough to offer their input.
Thanks everyone.
Denny
And I forgot to mention that when this happens, the key is out of the lock cylinder.
I think I will remove the ign switch and repair the contacts to see if that works. Once you have taken the counsel and bezel off, it's not such a big job to do it again.
When I get this done I will report to everyone who was gracious enough to offer their input.
Thanks everyone.
Denny
Racer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 469
Likes: 162
From: Port Birmingham AL
I bought a used factory switch with the green end cap off ebay, for a spare. I disassembled, cleaned, and lube it up. It had some carbon buildup
on the contacts, but cleaned up, nicely. Be sure the spring loaded plunger inside your switch is not broken and working properly.
I've got some pics, if you want them.
Larry
on the contacts, but cleaned up, nicely. Be sure the spring loaded plunger inside your switch is not broken and working properly.
I've got some pics, if you want them.
Larry
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 93
Likes: 12
Thanks Larry, I'm hoping to do just that. Thanks also for the offer of some pics, but I think I've seen enough You Tube videos to be able to muddle my way through this.
I'll report to everyone when I'm done. The cigarette lighter under the hvac controls is inop and so I'm going to replace that assembly while I have everything apart.
Slowly but surly I'm getting my 98 back into working shape. And that's exactly what I wanted, a car that I could tinker with.
I have leaky butt on the drivers side of the diff housing and over spring break my son and I will be tackling that.
I have a very small coolant leak at the bottom right corner of the radiator and I have seen enough information on the cooling system to scare the crap out of me and so I will be swapping the radiator out with a Dewitt unit. And I'd like to get their fan assembly that goes with it as they are 2x the rpm of the factory unit.
And lastly, where the steering shaft goes into the rack and pinion, there appears to be some seepage of the power steering fluid, but it seems to be such a small and slow leak, it will be the last thing I take care of, and so I will just keep an eye on that for a while.
Anyway, I should have good news tro report after this weekend.
Thanks, Denny
I'll report to everyone when I'm done. The cigarette lighter under the hvac controls is inop and so I'm going to replace that assembly while I have everything apart.
Slowly but surly I'm getting my 98 back into working shape. And that's exactly what I wanted, a car that I could tinker with.
I have leaky butt on the drivers side of the diff housing and over spring break my son and I will be tackling that.
I have a very small coolant leak at the bottom right corner of the radiator and I have seen enough information on the cooling system to scare the crap out of me and so I will be swapping the radiator out with a Dewitt unit. And I'd like to get their fan assembly that goes with it as they are 2x the rpm of the factory unit.
And lastly, where the steering shaft goes into the rack and pinion, there appears to be some seepage of the power steering fluid, but it seems to be such a small and slow leak, it will be the last thing I take care of, and so I will just keep an eye on that for a while.
Anyway, I should have good news tro report after this weekend.
Thanks, Denny
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 42
Likes: 27
I'm sure this isn't the reason but just in case........do you have LED headlights?
I have Radioflyer LED headlights installed because they draw less power occasionally they won't retract fully when switching off so I'll have to flash the high beams and then they'll close all the way. Usually has only ever happened when I've flashed them with the lights off and then tried to switch them off when parked.
Anyway, I had some work done on my car at the garage which involved disconnecting the battery. When I picked the car up, when opening the door I got the warning chime. No key in the ignition. Lights off and closed. Couldn't work out why. Tried a few different things but kept doing it. Finally realised it was the chime for headlights, so turned them on, flashed them then switched them off again. Stopped the chime.
I have Radioflyer LED headlights installed because they draw less power occasionally they won't retract fully when switching off so I'll have to flash the high beams and then they'll close all the way. Usually has only ever happened when I've flashed them with the lights off and then tried to switch them off when parked.
Anyway, I had some work done on my car at the garage which involved disconnecting the battery. When I picked the car up, when opening the door I got the warning chime. No key in the ignition. Lights off and closed. Couldn't work out why. Tried a few different things but kept doing it. Finally realised it was the chime for headlights, so turned them on, flashed them then switched them off again. Stopped the chime.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 136
Likes: 14
From: Plainfield, IL
I just reviewed the TSB on this and ordered a new Lock Cylinder. When I get it I will go to the locksmith and have them code in the new lock cylinder to my old key, then we will see.