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Time to fix the leak in my A/C system. I'm certain it's in the Evap unit. Big job. I wanted to take it to Lyle@C&S in Sarasota, Florida. About 90 miles South of me. But he's booked until July (great time to be C&S!!). So it's going to a place in Pinellas Park, Florida, instead. Shop is R&B Auto electronics and Repair. Had my Caddy there once, and was impressed with their work. They specialize in Corvettes, and also work on late model Cadillacs. I'm going to try and post a pic of my car, as it looked going to the shop yesterday. Don't shoot the messenger if it's MIA!!
The car looks phenomenal! I hope everything goes well with repairs.
Thank you. It does have a few battle scars from 135,000 miles of war, but for an original paint, 23 year old car, it's pretty decent. I never bought it to park it. If that's what some like to do, that's great. I buy them to enjoy the drive! Thanks again, Monty..
Make sure if they inject a fluorescent dye in the system to find the leak that they get all of it out before recharging.....
Thanks for the tip. I put some dye in myself. The bad thing is, I could never find a leak with the blacklight. I'm hoping I somehow missed it, but it could also be leaking at the evap under the dash, which would obviously not be visible. If so, its between $2,500-$3,000 to basically gut the cars interior from the seats forward, install a new evaporator, a new heater core, all new blend door actuators, yada yada. Shop, which has 4.9 of 5 stars rating, told me they dont think its the evap. They've been in business 30 years, and the owner told me in that time he could remember only 4 C5s that ever needed a new evaporator. We shall see....
Car looks great, especially (to reference a recent posts on the topic), the BSM fits the car. Being in Florida, A/C is definitely needed even with a Vert that I would expect you like to drop the top.
The car looks phenomenal! I hope everything goes well with repairs.
You might note how far recessed the rear lugnuts are. That's because they are wider, repop thinspokes I bought almost 20 years ago, from Bob@House of Wheels. They're 18"×10.5" so I could run a 315-30-18 tire out back. Probably not in production anymore. But it helps keep the stock, sleeper look, while running wider tires. The 427 needs all the rubber I can get it!!
Car looks great, especially (to reference a recent posts on the topic), the BSM fits the car. Being in Florida, A/C is definitely needed even with a Vert that I would expect you like to drop the top.
Thank you for the nice words. Amen to that. Even though it's only April, it was 78° at Midnight last night. It's like Summer weather here right now!!
Time to fix the leak in my A/C system. I'm certain it's in the Evap unit. Big job. I wanted to take it to Lyle@C&S in Sarasota, Florida. About 90 miles South of me. But he's booked until July (great time to be C&S!!). So it's going to a place in Pinellas Park, Florida, instead. Shop is R&B Auto electronics and Repair. Had my Caddy there once, and was impressed with their work. They specialize in Corvettes, and also work on late model Cadillacs. I'm going to try and post a pic of my car, as it looked going to the shop yesterday. Don't shoot the messenger if it's MIA!!
Lyle is always booked well up just because of their great work and not trying to soak you but real honest prices. I live a couple miles away and always expect expect wait time and try to plan ahead. 👍
Thank you. It does have a few battle scars from 135,000 miles of war, but for an original paint, 23 year old car, it's pretty decent. I never bought it to park it. If that's what some like to do, that's great. I buy them to enjoy the drive! Thanks again, Monty..
Amen to that! My car is a driver as well.
Originally Posted by grinder11
You might note how far recessed the rear lugnuts are. That's because they are wider, repop thinspokes I bought almost 20 years ago, from Bob@House of Wheels. They're 18"×10.5" so I could run a 315-30-18 tire out back. Probably not in production anymore. But it helps keep the stock, sleeper look, while running wider tires. The 427 needs all the rubber I can get it!!
I hadn't noticed that until you pointed it out. That's exactly what I need for mine. I love the stock wheels, but I also want a wider tire to hook up with the extra power. I might have to start looking for just a rear set of those.
How do you know it’s the evap unit? Did you use a sniffer?
have you ever replaced the condenser and all associated o rings? Seals on the back of the r compressor?
evap is a huge project. I’d try and eliminate the small stuff first.
How long does the system hold a charge?
(I was an ac tech for 14 years.)
I have a sniffer. Only place it will cause a very slow beep is in the interior with the windows up. Holds a charge for 3 weeks to a month. Here's an interesting, fun fact:
On my under hood sticker from GM, located on the right (passenger side) fenderwell, the factory fill of 134a is 28 ounces. Some years of C5 take slightly different amounts. The tech at this shop says their repair manual calls for 24 ounces, quite a difference! I'd like to think the OEM GM sticker is correct, but which is correct?? Who knows??!!!!
Just did this a few months ago. Big job and to make it even worse most of the parts I bought from Rockauto did not fit or where damaged. The first heater core flange would not fit through the hole in the air box and I am not cutting my car up to make crappy parts fit. The first evaporator was so bent that I was not going to use it either. The most frustrating part was the seats on the second evaporator were different and would not seal. In the end it all worked out and is running great now.
Just did this a few months ago. Big job and to make it even worse most of the parts I bought from Rockauto did not fit or where damaged. The first heater core flange would not fit through the hole in the air box and I am not cutting my car up to make crappy parts fit. The first evaporator was so bent that I was not going to use it either. The most frustrating part was the seats on the second evaporator were different and would not seal. In the end it all worked out and is running great now.
One thing I have to admit is, even though I hate paying a lot for labor, the hassle of getting the right parts for the car, having them fit, being able to function correctly, and a 3 year warranty, are all part of why you pay to play. I'm nearing 70 years old, and if the motor had to come out, I could still yank it and be able to fix or rebuild it. But trying to contort my body, especially after having 5 vertabraes fused, nope!! I hate paying for labor, and have always done my own. But sooner or later, ya gotta pay to play...
UPDATE!! UPDATE!!!!
The shop charged my A/C system, then turned it on high/max cold. Their sniffer sniffed zero out of the vents. They left it overnight with the windows up, and the next morning they cracked a door open enough to get the sniffer in again. It again found nothing. BUT!!!! The OEM label on my inner fenderwell that specs out the A/C refrigerant fill calls for 28 ounces. The shops repair manual calls for 24 ounces!!! Which is right??? ALSO-The high side pressure is reading over 330lbs.!! They found about half the condenser was plugged, even though it still blew very cold. Their theorizing the combination of the 330lb high side reading due to the partially plugged condenser, combined with the 4 ounce overfill of 134a (28oz vs the 24oz fill) have combined to damage/blow past an O-ring somewhere, or damaged the compressor seal itself. Remedy-Lets face it, my original, 23 year old, 135,000 mile+ compressor is probably on its last legs. They're going to install a new condenser, and a new compressor, because leaving a 23 year old compressor in with all new O-rings, a new condenser, and a new accumulator would be foolish. If the old compressor lets go, it takes out all the work they just did, AND that I paid for. They'll start with the 24oz fill of 134a. If it's reading cold enough, they'll leave it at 24oz. If after another month the system doesn't hold the charge, THEN it is 99.9% likely the evaporator is leaking. The way I figure it is everything they're doing is ready to go bad, anyway, and the condenser already has. If it still leaks, I'll have them do the evap next year. Have to space it out, I'm not a millionaire, lol!!!!
UPDATE!! UPDATE!!!!
The shop charged my A/C system, then turned it on high/max cold. Their sniffer sniffed zero out of the vents. They left it overnight with the windows up, and the next morning they cracked a door open enough to get the sniffer in again. It again found nothing. BUT!!!! The OEM label on my inner fenderwell that specs out the A/C refrigerant fill calls for 28 ounces. The shops repair manual calls for 24 ounces!!! Which is right??? ALSO-The high side pressure is reading over 330lbs.!! They found about half the condenser was plugged, even though it still blew very cold. Their theorizing the combination of the 330lb high side reading due to the partially plugged condenser, combined with the 4 ounce overfill of 134a (28oz vs the 24oz fill) have combined to damage/blow past an O-ring somewhere, or damaged the compressor seal itself. Remedy-Lets face it, my original, 23 year old, 135,000 mile+ compressor is probably on its last legs. They're going to install a new condenser, and a new compressor, because leaving a 23 year old compressor in with all new O-rings, a new condenser, and a new accumulator would be foolish. If the old compressor lets go, it takes out all the work they just did, AND that I paid for. They'll start with the 24oz fill of 134a. If it's reading cold enough, they'll leave it at 24oz. If after another month the system doesn't hold the charge, THEN it is 99.9% likely the evaporator is leaking. The way I figure it is everything they're doing is ready to go bad, anyway, and the condenser already has. If it still leaks, I'll have them do the evap next year. Have to space it out, I'm not a millionaire, lol!!!!
Lol, that’s just a funny story. Why, maybe because living in Chicago suburbs, having 75,000 miles on my 2004, I think I used my A/C like 10 times. I like the windows down in the summer time. Hopefully my A/C lasts another 20 years. Lol. Good luck Grinder.
The condenser is the first to get plugged with gravel and sand. It also lets enough gravel and sand pass through it for gravel and sand to go into the radiator.
When I put a DeWitts radiator in back in 2013, I was amazed at how much gravel and sand fell out of the old OEM radiator. It had all passed through the condenser.
Before I put an auxiliary transmission cooler in front of the condenser in 2014, I made an angled cut vacuum nozzle to allow vacuuming up high on the condenser and vacuumed a lot of sand and gravel out. Changed the auxiliary cooler last month and vacuumed the condenser again before installing the new cooler.
The condenser is the first to get plugged with gravel and sand. It also lets enough gravel and sand pass through it for gravel and sand to go into the radiator.
When I put a DeWitts radiator in back in 2013, I was amazed at how much gravel and sand fell out of the old OEM radiator. It had all passed through the condenser.
Before I put an auxiliary transmission cooler in front of the condenser in 2014, I made an angled cut vacuum nozzle to allow vacuuming up high on the condenser and vacuumed a lot of sand and gravel out. Changed the auxiliary cooler last month and vacuumed the condenser again before installing the new cooler.
Hi Jim. To be clear, my condenser was INTERNALLY plugged. I'm always removing external junk, like you're saying. But that obviously won't help an internal restriction...
It's time.....
