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Hi y’all it’s my first time modding a car and I have no idea what parts to order to mod my 2000 corvette automatic coupe. I want to mod it to make it go faster in a straight line and to make it more faster in general. My budget is $2-3k. Can you guys please link me to a list to the parts I should buy or tell me which parts you recommend please and thank you
If you are for real... Learn your self step by step... No hand holding... Be a man. 😡
PS.. the phonies flew the coop
Hi y’all it’s my first time modding a car and I have no idea what parts to order to mod my 2000 corvette automatic coupe. I want to mod it to make it go faster in a straight line and to make it more faster in general. My budget is $2-3k. Can you guys please link me to a list to the parts I should buy or tell me which parts you recommend please and thank you
Your 2000 has one small ace up its sleeve, so to speak, that no other year base C5 has. The 2000 model has the best factory LS1 cam ever installed from GM. It has .500 lift I. & E., and a 116, or 116.5 LSA, tighter than any other stock cam. It's not much, but every little bit helps. The 2000 model is the only year with that cam. BUT-Whatever you do, DO NOT use 1.8 rockers with this cam and stock valvesprings!! They'll coil bind and/or break!!! Any other year base model C5 can run 1.8s, but not the 2000. Your car is easily a mid 12s@111+mph car in the 1/4 mile. Not saying the C5 is an ideal 1/4 mile drag project, but the power is there if needed. If you have the base 2.73 diff, THAT will be your biggest roadblock to performance. I still have my original 3.15 diff. I mention it not because I want to sell it. I mention it because you shouldn't buy a 3.15 diff if you have a 2.73. Why? Because it won't make enough of a difference for the $$$ you'll spend. Get at least a 3.42, and preferably a 3.73. You'll be glad you did, trust me. In fact, if you have a 2.73 now, that would be the first thing I'd change. Best of luck...
Bah. Forget that noise. They have an automatic corvette. Best of all models. Slap a 150 wet shot of nitrous on it. More power on demand and affordable. Hit that button at every traffic light.
Very good advice on getting the car in good order first. If you already have the car in good order, I agree that gears would be a good option for going "more faster". Keep in mind though that (reliable) speed costs money. The gears are a good start though.
My 12.50@114mph was with a 3,200 Yank, and 3.15s. Do you have a Vert? Mine's a 2000 Vert, and the damn track owner.......Yeah, I fibbed to his staff. They asked what my car ran, and I fibbed and told him I had no idea. They told me no quicker than 14.00 with no roll bar!! 2 weeks prior, I'd run a 12.89@110 at a different strip. That was thru the stock exhaust manifolds. Now I had the Yank, and shorty stainless headers. So technically, I didn't know what it would run, I just, uh, fibbed a little!! Anyway, I made a couple of 12.65-12.70 runs, then ripped that 12.50@114mph!! Oooh BOY!!!!! That staffer came running at my car as I pulled up to the staging area again, pointing and waving a black flag, and screamed 'You're done, you can stay and watch, but no more racing unless you get a roll bar.' I complained to the owner, Ed Vakula, and told him I ran a street/strip/drag bike for years at his track, many times, quicker and faster than the Vette. I asked him which one would you feel safer in, the bike at 125+mph, or a car@114?? He said it didn't matter, and he was gonna follow NHRA rules for Verts. I said 'Ed, this isn't an NHRA track!' He replied 'no, it isn't. But it's MY track, and I'll run it as I see fit!!' End of story....
Hey Grinder, my times might be a little slower than others with a 3.73 and 3200 converter. But don’t forget, it was only my first summer with that set up, I’m still on street tires, and every state and track is different, DA, humidity, track prep, down wind, full tank of gas vs 1/4 tank of gas, and sea level. All that makes a difference. I’m sure there is more in it with just a drag radial. IMO, gears and converter is still worth it, and it sets your car up for an intake manifold, throttle body, heads, and cam. Basically a nice complete top end kit should net you 400-440 wheel horse depending on how big of cam you get, not as much as forced induction, but a 20-25 year old LS1 might need a good top end kit anyway just for a refresh. That night I went to the track, and did the 12.5@111, a C8 was there only trapping about 116, I thought they at least trapped 119+??? Not trying to justify anything, just saying.
I've never had any drag radials. My best times were with 315-30-18 Michelin PS2s. Track is about 750ft above sea level, but dont know what the DA was. This was WAY back in 2004. Hell, they still used scantilly clad girls waving flags to start us, and we pitched in afterwards to clean the outhouses....
The best thing to do is make a goal for what you want then look at the options to make that goal.
Plan it out and work to that goal knowing what you want need and can afford.
The other key is to make sure the parts you need all work together. Wrong cams with wrong gears etc can lead to many problems. Also the wrong parts can hurt more than help.
Also plan on some parts lead to others like big brakes lead to larger wheels and tires.
By all mean don’t get in over your head. Many folks end up with cars because the lack the money to finish or the skill to get it back together. That is where many Corvettes end up in a garage under blankets and boxes.