Hurst short throw shifter
The B&M Ripper, Hurst, and MGW all require trimming of the dust cover. I trimmed the boot on my black coupe for the B&M 23 years ago and didn't have to do it again for the MGW I installed a few months back.
Moral of the story....the trimming is required for all of the above. So it's not such a terrible thing if you do it then opt for a different aftermarket shifter. However, if you go back to stock you may continue to get some unwanted road noise due to the less than snug fit on the stock unit.
I almost did that when putting it together but decided not to for some reason. I am going to leave it be for now until I decide if I want to keep the shifter in or not. These console bezels are not the most resilient and I don’t want to remove it more than I need to.
The B&M Ripper, Hurst, and MGW all require trimming of the dust cover. I trimmed the boot on my black coupe for the B&M 23 years ago and didn't have to do it again for the MGW I installed a few months back.
Moral of the story....the trimming is required for all of the above. So it's not such a terrible thing if you do it then opt for a different aftermarket shifter. However, if you go back to stock you may continue to get some unwanted road noise due to the less than snug fit on the stock unit.
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It is on the verge of being to much of a good thing. The throw is so much shorter than factory that the force required to shift is borderline excessive. I would venture to say the shifter actually makes you shift slower because it is so notchy and requires so much force. One neat thing about it is if you get your limiting bolts set just right it does sound like a gated shifter. I have the bolt for 2,4,6 set just right but didn’t get 1,3,5 there. I do prefer the smooth feel of a c6z shifter and am to cheap to try the mgw so I don’t know yet where I will go from here.
Last edited by v8srfun; May 19, 2023 at 05:44 AM. Reason: Grammar
That said be sure you have the lightest springs (or remove them) in the Hurst shifter base. Even with the lightest springs you still have more adjustment using the two big allen headed screws.
Occasionally disassemble the unit, clean and reassemble with new grease.
Change your trans fluid to Amsoil Torque Thrust. Very smooth action with no downside. Synthetic but safe for the older transmissions.
One or two washers under the transmission shifter dent.(Anti-venom mod)
Be sure it's adjusted correctly to the shifter box using the neutral pin or a drill bit.
Be aware this is one tough transmission with big gears. It's never going to shift like a Jaguar.
However, without being able to access the gauge hole in the shaft, through the hole that's in the OE nose of the shift box, which TMod changes, a 100% accurate set-up is difficult. I initially installed the upgraded shift box, early last year, and thought I had it adjusted properly. Initially, it shifted reasonably well, but later on, I thought it could be better. Problem is, I hastily reassembled the console, before I THOROUGHLY road tested the set-up, so making further adjustments isn't a 5 minute job. I took the console apart again, a couple of weeks ago, and readjusted things, it was improved, so I reassembled the console. Now, I'm thinking about doing the job again, as I think it could be better.....
Would you mind explaining what this adjustment is? I'm new to Corvette and this type of shifter set up with the transmission in the rear. I found how to adjust the springs in the shifter. As well as the stops. But haven't seen anything about this particular adjustment. Thank you
Would you mind explaining what this adjustment is? I'm new to Corvette and this type of shifter set up with the transmission in the rear. I found how to adjust the springs in the shifter. As well as the stops. But haven't seen anything about this particular adjustment. Thank you




















