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Hurst short throw shifter

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Old May 17, 2023 | 09:13 PM
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Default Hurst short throw shifter

I had a hurst short throw shifter from my last c5 and decided to give it another chance ( I don’t think I liked it before). At this time I am undecided about the shift feel but that is not the point here. My concern is the lower shift boot that bolts to the tunnel. The lip on the boot fits perfectly around the oem shifter but not so much on the hurst. My last car the previous owner just cut the boot and I don’t want to do that. The problem is I noticed substantially more road and drivetrain noise coming from there now and I don’t know that I like it. Has anyone had this problem before and did they attempt to reduce the noise and how well did it work.
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Old May 17, 2023 | 10:42 PM
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The instructions for installing the Hurst shifter instruct you to cut the boot to create the seal.
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Old May 18, 2023 | 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Markolc1981
The instructions for installing the Hurst shifter instruct you to cut the boot to create the seal.
thank you I did not have the instructions. Now I need to decide if I like the shift feel before I go cutting the boot
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Old May 18, 2023 | 07:55 AM
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I put a Hurst shifter in my C-5 back in 2002. I do remember the instructions mentioning the need to trim the boot, and as I recall I did trim it a minimal amount, just enough to be able to slip it into place.
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Old May 18, 2023 | 05:22 PM
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I ran the Hurst in my silver coupe for about a year before I sold that car. I personally didn't like the Hurst. If I kept the car that shifter was coming out.

The B&M Ripper, Hurst, and MGW all require trimming of the dust cover. I trimmed the boot on my black coupe for the B&M 23 years ago and didn't have to do it again for the MGW I installed a few months back.

Moral of the story....the trimming is required for all of the above. So it's not such a terrible thing if you do it then opt for a different aftermarket shifter. However, if you go back to stock you may continue to get some unwanted road noise due to the less than snug fit on the stock unit.
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Old May 18, 2023 | 06:32 PM
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Turn the boot upside down. I've had it that way for a long time. Seals well but can be returned to stock with no problems.
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Old May 18, 2023 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by johnson-rod
Turn the boot upside down. I've had it that way for a long time. Seals well but can be returned to stock with no problems.

I almost did that when putting it together but decided not to for some reason. I am going to leave it be for now until I decide if I want to keep the shifter in or not. These console bezels are not the most resilient and I don’t want to remove it more than I need to.
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Old May 18, 2023 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Hardcore
I ran the Hurst in my silver coupe for about a year before I sold that car. I personally didn't like the Hurst. If I kept the car that shifter was coming out.

The B&M Ripper, Hurst, and MGW all require trimming of the dust cover. I trimmed the boot on my black coupe for the B&M 23 years ago and didn't have to do it again for the MGW I installed a few months back.

Moral of the story....the trimming is required for all of the above. So it's not such a terrible thing if you do it then opt for a different aftermarket shifter. However, if you go back to stock you may continue to get some unwanted road noise due to the less than snug fit on the stock unit.
Not to.hijack (apologies to OP) what did you not like about the Hurst? I bought my car with one installed so I have nothing to compare it to. What shifter would you have gone to? Thank you
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Old May 19, 2023 | 12:38 AM
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Pro Tip: strips of Orgavyl or 3M Strip Calk 08578 are excellent filler and sealer for your boot-to-shifter interfaces to keep exhaust fumes and hot air out of the car if you're not careful enough when trimming.
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Old May 19, 2023 | 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Cbibb
Not to.hijack (apologies to OP) what did you not like about the Hurst? I bought my car with one installed so I have nothing to compare it to. What shifter would you have gone to? Thank you

It is on the verge of being to much of a good thing. The throw is so much shorter than factory that the force required to shift is borderline excessive. I would venture to say the shifter actually makes you shift slower because it is so notchy and requires so much force. One neat thing about it is if you get your limiting bolts set just right it does sound like a gated shifter. I have the bolt for 2,4,6 set just right but didn’t get 1,3,5 there. I do prefer the smooth feel of a c6z shifter and am to cheap to try the mgw so I don’t know yet where I will go from here.

Last edited by v8srfun; May 19, 2023 at 05:44 AM. Reason: Grammar
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Old May 19, 2023 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by v8srfun
It is on the verge of being to much of a good thing. The throw is so much shorter than factory that the force required to shift is borderline excessive. I would venture to say the shifter actually makes you shift slower because it is so notchy and requires so much force. One neat thing about it is if you get your limiting bolts set just right it does sound like a gated shifter. I have the bolt for 2,4,6 set just right but didn’t get 1,3,5 there. I do prefer the smooth feel of a c6z shifter and am to cheap to try the mgw so I don’t know yet where I will go from here.
Thank you for your feedback I appreciate it. I'm kind of in the same boat about the mgw, that's a chunk of change. it does look like a nice piece though. Maybe if a used one ever pops up we will have our shot!
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Old May 19, 2023 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by v8srfun
It is on the verge of being to much of a good thing. The throw is so much shorter than factory that the force required to shift is borderline excessive. I would venture to say the shifter actually makes you shift slower because it is so notchy and requires so much force.
I agree with this. My car came with the Hurst, and initially I liked it, but it wore on me quickly. Will try the MGW next weekend when I get the car back from the glass shop.
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Old May 19, 2023 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Markolc1981
I agree with this. My car came with the Hurst, and initially I liked it, but it wore on me quickly. Will try the MGW next weekend when I get the car back from the glass shop.
Keep us posted on how you like it. Or possibly make a little post with a comparison of the two. If its that much better, may be worth investing in the mgw. Thanks
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Old May 19, 2023 | 09:15 AM
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Since we know each other in real life and I've been through more than half a dozen shifterd prior to now, I'd like to get my hands on the hurst shifter either in Mark's FRC or my coupe and see if some of the headaches can be rung out of it or not. At present, it sits second from the bottom of my list surpassed only by the B&M which has no business being on any car.
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Old May 19, 2023 | 11:37 AM
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"Corvettes and Hurst shifters go together like peas and carrots.", Forest Gump.

That said be sure you have the lightest springs (or remove them) in the Hurst shifter base. Even with the lightest springs you still have more adjustment using the two big allen headed screws.

Occasionally disassemble the unit, clean and reassemble with new grease.

Change your trans fluid to Amsoil Torque Thrust. Very smooth action with no downside. Synthetic but safe for the older transmissions.

One or two washers under the transmission shifter dent.(Anti-venom mod)

Be sure it's adjusted correctly to the shifter box using the neutral pin or a drill bit.

Be aware this is one tough transmission with big gears. It's never going to shift like a Jaguar.
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Old May 19, 2023 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by johnson-rod
"Corvettes and Hurst shifters go together like peas and carrots.", Forest Gump.

Be sure it's adjusted correctly to the shifter box using the neutral pin or a drill bit.....
I agree, but the problem is, as some of us have switched to the "TMod" shift box, we've lost the access to the "gauge hole" that's accessible, when the box is unmodified. As I've previously mentioned, I installed a Hurst unit in my C-5, over 20 years ago, and I was very happy with it. I later heard of how much smoother the shifter action is, with the TMod modifications, so I sent my shift box out for the upgrade. And yes, the movement of the control shaft within the shift box is indeed much smoother.

However, without being able to access the gauge hole in the shaft, through the hole that's in the OE nose of the shift box, which TMod changes, a 100% accurate set-up is difficult. I initially installed the upgraded shift box, early last year, and thought I had it adjusted properly. Initially, it shifted reasonably well, but later on, I thought it could be better. Problem is, I hastily reassembled the console, before I THOROUGHLY road tested the set-up, so making further adjustments isn't a 5 minute job. I took the console apart again, a couple of weeks ago, and readjusted things, it was improved, so I reassembled the console. Now, I'm thinking about doing the job again, as I think it could be better.....
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Old May 19, 2023 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Cbibb
Thank you for your feedback I appreciate it. I'm kind of in the same boat about the mgw, that's a chunk of change. it does look like a nice piece though. Maybe if a used one ever pops up we will have our shot!
I've had the aftermarket "short throw" shifters and was not sold. I cut an inch off my factory shifter and did the anti-venom mod and am thrilled.
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Old May 19, 2023 | 06:03 PM
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Be sure it's adjusted correctly to the shifter box using the neutral pin or a drill bit.


Would you mind explaining what this adjustment is? I'm new to Corvette and this type of shifter set up with the transmission in the rear. I found how to adjust the springs in the shifter. As well as the stops. But haven't seen anything about this particular adjustment. Thank you
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Old May 19, 2023 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Cbibb
Be sure it's adjusted correctly to the shifter box using the neutral pin or a drill bit.


Would you mind explaining what this adjustment is? I'm new to Corvette and this type of shifter set up with the transmission in the rear. I found how to adjust the springs in the shifter. As well as the stops. But haven't seen anything about this particular adjustment. Thank you
The "nose" of the shift box has an upward facing hole in it. This hole is used to engage in a hole in the shaft that goes through the shift box, and properly index the "cup" that the ball on the bottom of the shifter sits in. You loosen the clamp that links the shift box rod to the shifter linkage, insert the pin (the pin is stored in a clip at the front of the shifter. if it's missing, a properly sized drill bit will work) through the "nose", such that it also engages the hole in the rod, then tighten clamp.
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Old May 19, 2023 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
The "nose" of the shift box has an upward facing hole in it. This hole is used to engage in a hole in the shaft that goes through the shift box, and properly index the "cup" that the ball on the bottom of the shifter sits in. You loosen the clamp that links the shift box rod to the shifter linkage, insert the pin (the pin is stored in a clip at the front of the shifter. if it's missing, a properly sized drill bit will work) through the "nose", such that it also engages the hole in the rod, then tighten clamp.
Thank you! Hopefully it will all make sense when i go to put it all back together. I sent my diff of to rpm 6 weeks ago and just got a call today that is in the way back. As soon as I get that in i will put the shifter back in. Thanks again
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