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It's worth to do relocation kit or no even I change the oil sensor already before a year ? Because I'm going to remove the manifold that why l ask this question ...
If you like removing manifolds the relocation kit is not necessary. On my last C5 I drilled a hole in the plastic above the sender as described in several videos. No regrets. When my next one fails, I would do that again.
I put a remote sensor with gauge together but didn’t install it yet. Even if the sensor only lasted 7 years, would the convenience vs the oil leak potential from all the fittings be worth it? On the other hand I haven’t heard of these leaking, it’s just my paranoia from racing experience over many years.
Removing the intake manifold is a small job, so I’m not concerned with a “maybe someday” repair presenting itself. Although…I would like the convenience of a mechanical oil gauge situated in the engine compartment.
If you decide to install the remote line, buy the parts individually for half the cost with better parts. I can send you a list if want.
There is also the choice of a brass Buick sensor vs a steel Chevy sensor. Here are a couple choices for layout:
Last edited by vette4fl; Apr 11, 2024 at 03:06 PM.
I put a remote sensor with gauge together but didn’t install it yet. Even if the sensor only lasted 7 years, would the convenience vs the oil leak potential from all the fittings be worth it? On the other hand I haven’t heard of these leaking, it’s just my paranoia from racing experience over many years.
Removing the intake manifold is a small job, so I’m not concerned with a “maybe someday” repair presenting itself. Although…I would like the convenience of a mechanical oil gauge situated in the engine compartment.
If you decide to install the remote line, buy the parts individually for half the cost with better parts. I can send you a list if want.
There is also the choice of a brass Buick sensor vs a steel Chevy sensor. Here are a couple choices for layout:
This is a simple version with gauge. Steel or aluminum adaptor, depending on Chevy or Buick sensor. Complete setup with no gauge/gauge fitting is $68, with gauge and port $111. Without gauge, this is a tad more than half of the kit sold on Amazon, but with superior components.
My recipe specifies Aeroquip hose. As the name implies, they make aviation components, and….they are way less expensive than crap Earl’s hoses. The picture depicts a 12” hose, but you can get other lengths, including 6”.
If you’re buying a sensor look carefully at the manufacturer name, because off brand junk will often list the GM or ACDelco part number.
You also can add an extension to the harness so it gives you more options in where you mount it.
A divided hose is another option. Allows the sensor to be accessible to the original harness, while having the flexibility to mount the gauge where visibility is optimized.
Yesterday I had that sensor replaced by a Corvette privateer... a pro.... The labor and parts along with an oil change was only 700 bucks... While he was struggling with that job I sat on my couch watching the Masters... 😊
I just bought the parts for this and wanted to say thanks for the list and a few notes to help others out. I went with the "GM Sensor without a gauge" The Vibrant Performance Adapter was hard to find, even with the notes. I noted the actual part number which should make this easier to find in the future.
Evil Energy -6 AN Female to -4 AN Male, Aluminum, Black (Amazon)
Vibrant Performance Adapter -6AN male to 16mm x 1.5 Female Metric Straight Aluminum (VPE-16786 part number at Summit Racing)
Aeroquip 12" brake line FBPA0040-12 (Was out of stock everywhere, went with SUM-220302 at Summit Racing)
AC Performance, Aluminum Oil Pressure Adapter 1/8 in. NPT female to 16mm x 1.5 male (Amazon)
AC Performance AN to NPT straight Aluminum black anodized -4 AN 1/8 in. NPT (Amazon)
(You'll also need the Chevy Oil Pressure Sensor, but I had one already for the project)
Yesterday I had that sensor replaced by a Corvette privateer... a pro.... The labor and parts along with an oil change was only 700 bucks... While he was struggling with that job I sat on my couch watching the Masters... 😊
Perhaps you might share this pro’s name and location?
I'm in the wrong business. 700 clams is a PAYDAY for that job. I also agree once relocated it will probably never leak again, mine hasn't in 2 years after the leaky one I originally replaced failed in 2 months (AZ Duralast).
There are several ways to do your own kit, here is my parts list with included mechanical gauge.
Earls AT9919BFJERL - 4AN male/ M16x1.5 male. Fitting at engine original sensor threaded into.
Earls AT304604ERL - 4AN 45deg hose end. Hose end fitting at engine adapter
Earls 303004ERL - 4AN hose.
Earls AT318004ERL - 180deg hose end. Hose end fitting at gauge/sensor.
Earls AT981604ERL - 4AN to 1/8" NPT male straight adapter. Fitting between hose and tee fitting
Earls AT991701ERL - Tee fitting - 1/8" NPT female. Tee fitting for gauge and sensor
ICT F125NPFM1615 - 1/8"NPT male/M16x1.5 female adapter. Allows OEM sensor to be threaded on to tee fitting.
K Motor mechanical oil pressure gauge - screws into 1/8' NPT leg of tee.
I also used a cushioned cable clamp to hold it all in place.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
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oil pressure sensor relocation kit
