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Hi I have a c5 that’s stock other than a borla catback
i was interested in a true cold air intake so I narrowed it down to the following
vararam- this installation looks too complicated
callaway honker-this looks almost identical to zip and flip
k&n 57-3020- this is only partial true cold air intake
Let me know if I missed any of options.
then the Flip and zip tie mod. I like this because it’s cheap and easier to do. To me looks identical to the callaway honker.
some questions
1 are there any advantages to getting the callaway honker over doing the zip and flip?
2 if I were to do it, what filter would you suggest? I’d like to maximize performance, and keep engine safety in mind. Between both oiling of the filter (or not) and elements. Although I don’t intend on getting it wet what filter would be best if it did get a little water on it?
3 I drive my c5 and don’t baby it. This means I do drive in the rain. Overall do you think this is a safe mod to do? Any tips to make it as safe as possible? Thoughts on pre filters?
Do not pick a filter that needs oiling, lots of the oil will make its way onto the throttle body and it’ll light a CEL
I did some more research and it seems that oiled breathes better and traps dirt better. The concern of oil doing any damage could be solved by following manufacturers instructions and not over oiling it
would that be correct take on that?
other than the filter itself how safe would you say this mod is for my other concerns?
Not much more else to say, if more hp is your goal CAI is a waste of money and oil filters are a PITA the simple stock air filter zip tie mod can do the job imo
I did some more research and it seems that oiled breathes better and traps dirt better. The concern of oil doing any damage could be solved by following manufacturers instructions and not over oiling it
would that be correct take on that?
other than the filter itself how safe would you say this mod is for my other concerns?
Oil filters, like K&N, breathe better because their filter is less restrictive. A flow and filtering test had K&N first in flow, but near the back of the pack in filtering. On the other hand, Wix and Purolator were clear winners on filtering, while second behind K&N in flow.
Vararam and Honker are the only two “cold air” intakes, the difference being that Vararam collects air from the front of the bumper, whereas the Honker collects air in front of the radiator from the ground. The filter zip tie mod still gets air from the engine compartment.
Oil filters, like K&N, breathe better because their filter is less restrictive. A flow and filtering test had K&N first in flow, but near the back of the pack in filtering. On the other hand, Wix and Purolator were clear winners on filtering, while second behind K&N in flow.
Vararam and Honker are the only two “cold air” intakes, the difference being that Vararam collects air from the front of the bumper, whereas the Honker collects air in front of the radiator from the ground. The filter zip tie mod still gets air from the engine compartment.
im talking about the flipped zip tie version. Not the standard one.
The one thing I like about the KN style filters is if you are going to expose it, it has a wire mesh that covers the whole filter that will protect it from minor stones, etc getting kicked up. My paper filter had a couple small holes when I pulled it out.
Most of the ones that mess up the Mass Air are filters people over oil and clean too often.
These systems are small if any gain on most cars. I played enough with them I left the Vette alone. I would rather spend the money toward heads and cam that really make a difference.
I’m running oiled cotton (Breathless Performance) and one more aspect is that the oil is reported to add a modicum of protection from water intrusion. I’ve driven in Florida gulley washers without engine problems (won’t say the same for traction) so there may be some truth to it.
I've been told (by someone that knows more than me) that some of these after market cold air intakes can lead to hydro-locking the engine. The remedy is to put a weather seal on the front lip of the hood to keep the water out. Has anyone experienced hydro-lock with an after market CAI?
I work in the performance industry and I have been in the training for these systems and filters. Been around them for just over 30 years,
Here is the truth and not the web truth.
#1 Do they increase power. Yes but it can vary from model to model and also vary due to modifications. Most stock applications are 7-10 HP at best and a few a little higher if the stock system is really poor. The main improvement is in the ducting and elimination of the air box,
#2 Oiled filters work fine. The greatest issue is that people over oil them. There are rare cases where a filter is too close to a Mass air sensor that it can contaminate it. Most have enough space and do not have issues with the proper oil.
#3 You are not going to hydrolock with a filter. Even in the old days old timers would dump tranny fluid in the car while running to break up carbon. The oil if it ever got that far would burn. It can on water in some cases depending on the style and how deep the water.
Generally these systems will see small gains in power and mpg due to the fact they are a little less restricted. They can do what the factory can't due because of the drive by noise regulations. The noise of the intake increases here and these sounds are loud enough not to pass federal regulations. This is why the air boxes have the baffles they do.
K&N generally dyne test each kit and it gives you an idea of what cars have poor intake systems to start with. They have legitimate numbers posted.
These systems generally sell to people that used to put a chrome air cleaner on their car. They sell big with younger car hobbiest that are just learning how to make some changes.
These kits are a if you want one do it but if not you are not missing out on much. They mostly sell them because they can make good money on them.
Note on many later cars unless you have disabled the learn feature on the vehicle the improvement will be negated back to the factory settings. Many of today's cars can adjust back to the factory spec if it detects a change.
On my HHR Turbo one of the things the GM tune offered was to eliminate the learn feature so I could change other parts and not lose the additional performance. That is how it was an able to run 23 PSI of boost and retain it. That and 3 bar sensors. But on it the K&N offered for it added only 7 HP. Not enough to notice after the boost change that was 65 HP.
If you want to run one run it If not don't. Just do not expect massive amounts of HP but it will sound better and some look better.
The way to real power is still Cams. Heads, Intake and exhaust. More air in and out with more fuel.
I've been told (by someone that knows more than me) that some of these after market cold air intakes can lead to hydro-locking the engine. The remedy is to put a weather seal on the front lip of the hood to keep the water out. Has anyone experienced hydro-lock with an after market CAI?
i had a vararam bottom breather get a lungful of water in a big puddle and hydrolock.