Hi everyone - new here. Just sold my 2004 z4 manual and looking to get into a c5. Trying to stay around 15k budget wise. Having said that, should I be avoiding certain years? I’ve read that the 2001-04 are best years due to engine changes and ebcm being fixed. However, not sure the pre 01 power wouldn’t be sufficient for me coming from the z4. Are the issues for the pre 01s really that big a deal? Just looking for a fun weekend car.

appreciate any feedback.

 

as a rule, get the latest model you can afford.
As for power differences, it's not noticeable. pre 01 is 5 hp less than post 01.
The EBCM issue is *very* overplayed. Pre-01, if they go, they are generally not fixable because GM weathproofed them by dipping the circuit board in epoxy.
Post 01, they weren't "fixed," the circuit board is no longer dipped in epoxy. So if the post-01 EBCM goes, in *some* circumstances, it can be fixed. Neither the pre or post 01 ebcm is sold anymore (ironically, some have suggested that the post-01 ebcm is more susceptible to failure lacking the 01 and older weatherproofing-- ive seen no proof for that)

That said, if you get a pre-01, and the price is right, just get it. If you're overly worried about the ebcm, add $1,500 to the purchase price for a used unit (there is a sticky on here also on how to convert a pre-01 to a post-01 ebcm).

Again, that said... get the latest year you can afford. traction control was reprogrammed post 01 for slightly better handling, the intake is from the z06 (one of the reasons for the additional 5hp), and there are other improvements.

I think you'll have difficulty finding a post '01 in good condition for 15k, but if you can, and it hits all your check marks, get it. But I wouldn't shy away from an '01 and earlier if you can find one in good shape at your price.

if you haven't already, you should check out this definitive list:
MUST READ: The Definitive C5 Info Thread - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion

Also check this thread out, which lists the differences year by year :
C5 differences year by year - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion

 

Thanks - appreciate the input and the feedback on the ebcm issue.

 

check out the links in my post, especially the second one, it gives detailed differences year by year.

If it were me, I'd make a list of your "must" have options, and your "would like" options. convertible? six speed? color? milage?
find one for sale that comes as close to your wish list as possible, and matches the price, *then* worry the year.

 

I went through this when I bought mine.

I sought out documented opinions and found the sweet spot is 01-03.

These cases were the best sorted.

The early cars lack sone things the later car had and the engine updates. But you can save some money.

The 04 is a great car but it has done odd things like an 05 fuel system. Which is fine but the 04 lavish the access panel to change a fuel pump unless you pull it all down.

In the big picture the differences are small but in the worse case issues the cost can be more to fix especially if you can’t do it yourself.

I ended up with a 02. I have no regrets.

Now to find one at that price it will be a coupe and higher miles. You want less miles $18k -19k will get you that. Prices will vary around the country and these are Ohio. But fall and winter is a good time for deals people want to dump a car before storage.

There are no bad years just some sre better than others.

 

Same here. Paid 19K in Jan 23 for my 02 Coupe w/56K miles, bone stock I bought from a large Nissan dealer. He took it in on a trade and had it for 6 months when I got it. For 15 grand, you should be able to find a decent car, just be patient and look at alot of cars! I looked at 10 before I came across mine.

 

Yes take your time and learn all you can on the C5.

Buy this book. It will have all the info you need.


In come cases it may take 10 cars in my case it was the first one. But the key is to know what to look for, This book will give you the best guidance.

Getting the right car can be very rewarding but the wrong one can be the car from hell. Have it inspected if unsure by an independent mechanic. I also took several Corvette guys with me to be extra eyes. They are collectors and can give an impartial opinion. Buying a Vette can be emotional and you need to check the emotions at the door.

25K-60K miles is not a bad thing. Low miles can create issues due to the lack of driving it. Dry gaskets, bad tires, bad gas etc. Garage damage from things piled on it and even dried out leather seats.

 

I have that book, it's not terrible, and not a bad starting point, but frankly the knowledge in this forum is far deeper. A great starting point are the forum sticky I liked to above, and for specific year-by-year differneces, this thread is great:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...r-by-year.html

You can see a good chunk of the differneces came around in '01 -- so, setting aside the (overblown) ebcm issues, an '01 or newer is usually a good place to start (I had actually forgotten about the keyfob differneces -- '00 and older key fobs are like $100+ on ebay... because there's so many more around, 01 and newer are like $25 :-) :


1997
* Completely new, redesigned Corvette. Base (FE1) and Z51 (FE3) suspension packages.
* All Z51 cars include: Power Steering Cooler
* 97-00 C5 LS1's produce 345 HP @ 5600 RPM and 350 Ft Lbs of torque @ 4400 RPM.

1998
* Convertible becomes available
* Active Handling becomes available late in year
* The two slots of a 1998 (and possibly late 1997s) curve toward the rear at the bottom. (versus straight down)

1999
* 26# injectors substituted for 28#
* Fuel pump revised to reduce noise
* FRC "Fixed Roof Coupe" aka the hardtop, becomes available. All FRC's are MN6 (6-speed) cars with the Z51 suspension package, and are about 60lbs lighter than coupes.
* HUD introduced
* Only one line in driver's side fuel rail cover (no fuel return line?)
* Power telescoping wheel becomes an option
* Steering hardware changed to combat wandering
* Door sill trim plates added

2000
* Millennium Yellow available
* "Thin Spoke" versus "wagon wheel" design wheels become standard.
* Pup cats added to all models for LEV emissions requirements (5hp loss relative to 97-99)
* Steel swaybar endlinks instead of plastic on Z51 equipped cars
* Z51 swaybar diameters grow (25.4/21.7 to 28.6/21.7 to 28.6/23.6 (note: new rear same as Z06)
* No keyhole on passenger side doorhandle
* Passenger airbag 'off' switch added to console (light by TC/AH button)

2001
* Return to 28# injectors for all models.
* Second Generation Active Handling
* Nassau Blue discontinued
* Alternator 'clutch' pulley added on A4 cars
* New soundproofing + foam in all cars
* Smaller keyfob
* Electrochromic dimming rearview and driver's mirrors
* Lighter AGM battery
* Thickness + Material in Convertible change
* Chrome exhaust tips for coupe + Convertible
* 85MM MAF with integral temp sensor (versus 74mm with separate plug for IAT)
* LS1 cam profile changed to: .500/0.500, 198/208 on 115.5LSA (From: 0.472/0.479, 202/210 on 117)
* All Corvettes now have the LS6 intake manifold
* All Corvettes now have the LS6 engine block (windage passages in block), which includes a beefier oil pump.
* LS1 changes result in new output of 350 HP @ 5200 RPM and 375 Ft Lbs of torque @ 4400 RPM (MN6)
* Hardtop/FRC discontinued
* Stronger synchros in all transmissions
* Exhaust manifolds revised (5hp regained) - thin wall cast replacing SS manifolds
* Metal valvestem caps (late year)
* Torque Tube changed from metal-matrix composite to aluminum alloy 6061, increased in diameter from 55 to 63 mm.
* Driveshaft couplings have also been upgraded on manual-equipped models for additional strength and durability
* Introduction of the Z06, which has as differences:
* Hardtop body style
* Rear brake ducting
* Screened inlets on front fascia, without foglights
* F1 Supercar tires 265-17 front, 295-18 rear, on 17x9.5 and 18x10.5 (one inch wider, respectively
* New LS6 top-end with new style head design (10.5:1 compression, 64cc chamber), LS6 cam (0.525/0.525, 204/211 on 116) - 385hp
* M12 transmission with shorter gearing (1-2-3 analagous to MN6 with 3.90 rear diff
* Titanium exhaust system
* Lightweight windshield
* New, stronger clutch with redesigned master + slave cylinder
* Stronger rear differential (shotpeened ring gear)
* Red brake calipers (otherwise identical)
* Transmission overtemp warning light on DIC
* 6500 redline gauges with special checkering + Z06 font
* Redesigned PCV system to help combat oil burning
* Red LS6 Fuel Rail Covers (FRC's)
* FE4 Z06 suspension - uprated springs, bars (30mm/23.6mm), shocks (note front spring and rear bar same as Z51)

2002
* Z06 Changes:
* Z06 LS6 cam changed to: 0.551/0.547, 204/218 on 117.5
* Less restrictive intake airbox lid
* Descreened MAF
* Removal of pup-cats (total with changes = 405hp)
* Z06 shocks revised with less rebound for better launching
* Z06 brake pads revised for better stopping (generate more dust)
* Lighter, sodium filled valves w/ stronger valve springs
* Higher tension rings installed to prevent oil burning problems
* Slight piston redesign *
* Clutch strength upgraded.
* HUD available on Z06 (not avail '01 model year)
* Wheel supplier changed to Speedline, moved from forged to cast. Weight nearly identical
* Electron Blue color offered
* Steel endlinks changed to aluminum

2003
* Late model-year new fuel system design from C6's

2004
* Z06 shocks further refined. Accompanying upper front control arm bushing, and rear swaybar bushing changes.

 

2001-2002 would be my first choice. 2003-2004 would be my second choice as long as the car did NOT come with magnetic ride control.

I would not consider a 97-00 car unless the following things are true. One is the car has a great price tag. Two is I am ok with no traction control. Three is I am ok with no anti-lock brakes. Four is I am ok with yellow lights on my dash telling me I have no traction control and anti-lock brakes.

I personally bought a 2000 Corvette because the price was definitely right ($10,500 for a manual trans & convertible). I drove plenty of cars back in the day that didn't have traction control and anti-lock brakes (because they weren't invented yet) and I did just fine. I drove the car long enough with the yellow warning lights on so it went from being annoying to just being normal.

 

A massive amount of upgrades were made to the '01+ cars. If you can find a nice car in your budget range, I would lean towards those years.

 

While I agree that 01 and newer without mag ride is the best choice if OP can find in his price range and with his preferred options,, the ebcm issue is grossly overstated. It happened to you, and that sucks, but that doesn't mean it is inevitable. Far from it. They are not prone to failure, they just can't be fixed *if* they do fail (and in many instances, nor can the 01 or newer.)

 

Agree. I almost look at the 01 as a c5.1.

 

I bought the 02 for all the upgrades and the lack of know issues.

I did get the F45 just because the car was in such good condition and the system was still working. But before I purchased I made sure I could get the simulators at work to eliminate it should the system fail later on.

I do not like cars with warning lights on and things that can not be worked around. The fact the year I have has a solution to about anything that may come up and that is why I chose it.

The Stability control is not on every car but it happens enough to be a problem for some. It just comes down to risk and are you good with it should it happen.

The real issue is even if you live with the lights on when it comes time to sell it will be a penalty on the value. Like we tell people here daily before they sell fix the issues and get the full value.

While some talk this stuff down and others up it comes down to just what you personally are willing to accept. No one else opinion matter it comes down to what matters to you. Be informed and then you decide.

 

Found a 2002 with 110k miles on it with the right spec (black on black/vert/6 speed). Price is solid - right at 14k asking so might even have some room to negotiate. Clean carfax; recent harmonic balancer changed. Looks like a really nice car and good price. Is there anything I should be concerned with over 100k miles - most of what I am looking at is around 70-80k miles anyhow so can't imagine its an issue.

 

clutch/torque tube is really the only expensive repair on a car like that after the balancer has been done.

These cars are generally pretty reliable. Check for leaks, check that the headlight gears aren't worn, check the fluids

 

Thanks - is there a typical mileage the clutch annd torque tube fails?

 

No a lot depends on the way the car was used.

If it was abused by someone and or driven by someone that can't drive a clutch life can be short. If not abused and used properly 150K miles is not out of line.

Even if the car sits for a long time the slave cylinder can fail and you still have to rip it apart. You generally have to try to see if the car was abused and in some cases it can be difficult as there may have been 5 owners or more.

Best to factor in worst case. That way if it happens you will have the money to fix it or the ability to fix it yourself.

 

with typical, average use, typically clutch will be repalced at around 50k, though as hyper says, could go longer.
Torque tube? unless the car is abused, it'll last for the life of the car.

 

just depends on how hard those miles were. Have a mechanic look it over, one that's familiar with the c5. 2002 is a great year, they don't have too many known issues.

and great choice -- black on black convertible six speed is *the* best combo :-)



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'88 Cherokee, ZZ6 crate motor, 404 HP/400 lb-ft

 

Note the 150K is for the old man who drives easy. I have seen clutches last less than 10K if raced or abused. Mustang guys kill them in 3 months if they don't grade a clutch quadrant. It is all variable. Was the last one installed correctly? That can also play a role too if it was replaced. I had a car some idiot did not put a pilot bearing in when installing the clutch. How I never broke the Input shaft? Did wipe the clutch. I thought I had a bearing going bad in the Tranny.

As for tube. The tube is not usually the issue it is the parts in it that may need replaced and you have to remove it to get to it. Slave cylinder is a perfect example.

Autos the tubes last a long time. The real issue is the 3 gear letting go in some cases. They generally are reliable. Again care and abuse can reduce it.