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I have had cars like you described when I was young and real dumb. My solid lifter 327 Chevy Monza comes to mind, my squeeze at the time refused to ride 3 feet in that thing.. An A&A equipped LS3 crate motor, hmmm. Seems a total refresh of my current engine would cost even more. Katech offers a nice one with some of their goodies for a fuzz under 10 large. But that is down the road and dependent on how much of a pile of dough I have left after the diff, transmission and TT. Then again it's only money, right? Can't take it with me and have no one to leave it to anyway.
I'll be honest. Here I am overbuilding the Z06 but there is joy in the 400 to 500 range where you can just send it and not have to think too much about traction or what your feet are doing. It is not a slow car but it is so capable that it ends up feeling like you are driving a slow car fast. A cam and a tune might suffice to make that car a ton of fun on fresh suspension and tires. Enough to hold you a few years of wrenching. The engines themselves are surprisingly durable and spry.
I have not got my car back yet but it now has an RPM stage 6 built t56(M6 gearing), monster twin, RPM stage 3 dif w 3.90s and an ECS trans/dif brace.
I think if I go with a 15" conversion and say a MT ET Street R that trans and dif will be short lived.
I'm leaning towards a MT ET Street S/S in 305 35 19 for my CCW 505s and a replica chrome 17" C5Z wheel or C6Z wheel with Street Rs in 305 45 17s when I want more bite.
Hook too good and stuff breaks vs spinning ain't winning.
The thread about the best tires for street traction got me thinking, what is the approx HP limit without resorting to spinfest? While 800 hp sounds great spinning at 60 into a ditch doesn't sound so great. I would like to keep the power manageable with a 305 rear tire and an auto equipped with 3.73 gears. I understand it has a lot to do with throttle modulation but from experience, I know there are a LOT of high HP cars here, what are some opinions on max HP based on a good performance street radial.
The way in which you approach this problem is everything.
If I tune cars with unlimited power 2k+ rwhp and the owners want to drive around with basic 555 not even DR,
They must have front wheel speed sensor with which to compare driveshaft speed for torque management.
Otherwise your traction control is 'open loop' and that is you going sideways at 120mph with too much power
The way in which you approach this problem is everything.
If I tune cars with unlimited power 2k+ rwhp and the owners want to drive around with basic 555 not even DR,
They must have front wheel speed sensor with which to compare driveshaft speed for torque management.
Otherwise your traction control is 'open loop' and that is you going sideways at 120mph with too much power
This is interesting especially considering I currently have zero traction control as I am saddled with a 2000 A4 and a fried EBCM. And my goal is around that 555-600 mark with no DR, though they are not ruled out in the future goofing around at drag and drive events.
I have been contemplating what to do with myself now that I am fully retired. Getting my nose into this kind of thing, tuning and what not has my curiosity. Too bad I just moved from S Florida...
Power is only a part of potential problem, low gearing and tall tires traction vector becomes manageable at any power but the engine has to work at those specific load and frequency well in an application.
Most rapid simplified way to start doing traction control algorithm is Haltech Nexus and Hall effect wheel speed sensor
imo 600dynojet is easily dailyable, that is acceptable for decent tires 3L to 6L 2800-3800lbs ranges. Traction control at that level as safety feature, not necessary for normal tires to do well in typical street settings unless the vehicle is grossly mis-geared or the tires are bad. It isn't magic, bad tires will still cause a wreck eventually. It isn't meant to be a bandaid for poor tire quality. It is a small boost to safety and a potential performance optimizer for an already well stuck combo. Boost by gear and Torque management strategies should blend, improve transmission lifespan and traction together.
Thank you. Torque management is something I am very interested for longevity and control. Even stock the 1-2 shift can get it unsettled at times. I will admit I am not very savvy or experienced in the electronic end of things, I am educating myself. I appreciate any and all advice.
Art of 4-speed lifespan starts with learning to rebuild them, work with flaws mechanically before a computer is involved
ECU Tuning starts with RC circuits and microcontroller coding experience
Engine Tuning starts with carb/distributor foundation again before computers get involved
then you are able to blend the coding ability of microcontrollers with mechanical nature of the beast
