Appling Caramic Coating






















It doesn't take much ceramic to coat a panel. Make sure that you lay it on in one direction, and then apply 90 degrees over the first layer. Give the panel 10 minutes or so for the ceramic to set up; you'll see a rainbow appearance not unlike when you drop oil on water. Buff-off the ceramic coating with a microfiber towel and then polish with another clean microfiber towel. Make absolutely certain that you've hit every bit of the coating; once it sets, there's no going back. You'll need to polish-off the coating and repeat all the steps. The coating will cure overnight and the finish is amazing. When you wash your car, you dry it with a leaf blower! It beads up and rolls off!
I ended-up applying 2 coats of Zymol wax to the ZO6 as it has been prepped for NCRS flight judging, and they frown on coatings other than wax.
You can absolutely do this for a fraction of the $1,200 if you don't mind doing the hard work.
What I used. Worked decent enough
Before
After but not done
Done





The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
1 bottle does the whole car with some left over for plastic touch ups and such. I do mine once a year and it is almost that time for this year!
I just got an email from Optimum and they have a new Hyper Shine DIY Ceramic Coating. It's supposed to be easier for a DIYer to apply and it also fills light swirls and scratches:
Hyper Shine DIY Ceramic Coating
While surface prep is best for an ideal surface for the coating to adhere and look it's best, it isn't absolutely necessary to go overboard. Just watch a few YouTube videos and you'll get the feel for it. You can also just start out with a spray detailer that contains some Si02 (ceramic) for an extremely slick surface that will repel dirt and make washing easier for 1 to 3 months. Just one that I've had very good luck with:
Ceramic Speed Shine
Last edited by Eliot Ness; Apr 23, 2025 at 02:28 PM. Reason: added extra info
LINK
Results were pretty amazing

I would be doing so much more than coating though, the entire car would be enhanced at as-perfect as I can get it. You're paying for experience, know-how with chemicals to include compatibility, and a lot of labor. Larry Kosilla was the forst person I heard use the term "Framing." You are paying for framing, and there's more than you think.
I would wash it, and while I am washing it I am familiarizing myself with this specific car, use the wheel woolies on the wheels and Adam's tire cleaner on the rubber. Then perform an iron decontamination (I like Iron-X), then, (since I'll be polishing) I'd use synthetic clay. Normally I would write down all of the paint thicknesses for each panel and give it to the owner, but since this car is plastic and fiberglass my Paint Thickness gauge doesn't read on it. Next I polish the glass with CeriGlass, which not only removes any water spots, but makes the glass look supremely clean.
Then I would use 3M Adhesive Remover to remove the tar from the wheel wells, fenders and the bottom of the rear bumper, so it doesn't get onto my pads. Set up some lights and get to polishing with my 5 inch DA, my 3 inch DA, and the 1 inch backing plate for small spots. Some of this car has to be polished by hand, for example the slits in the rear bumper and the tail light housings. Some of this will be laying on the ground because I don't have a lift. I have to remove the taillights to get the bumper perfect, then polish the lights and put them back in last. I might polish the door jambs, but that's got to be up to the owner. Window rubber gets masking tape.
Dress the cowl and fenders now in case I slip and hit them with my pad. Remove the wheels and wash what I missed the first time, clean the barrels with 3M adhesive remover, then polish the barrels and faces. Polish my heart out, this is the longest step. For all of this I'm using non-petroleum polish because it's getting coated. I'm also using something with diminishing abrasives. My "checker light" will help me gauge my progress here. The wheels are going to get some significant hand polishing too. While I have the wheels off I need to tend to the pain in the butt plastics. They need to be cleaned and dressed as well, otherwise the lack of contrast is going to make the car look half-assed.
Once the wheels are hand torqued back on I can begin wiping everything down with IPA. Once the car us surgically clean, spot free, swirl and scratch free (for the most part) I can begin coating it. Coating will probably take 2 hours to include time waiting for haze and addressing high spots where my applicator overlapped. If needed I can cut OptiCoat with OptiSeal. Once the paint is coated I would use Invisible Glass on a glass towel to clean the windows, windshield, and rear glass, obviously model dependent.
Once she's done (imputing gender) I ask if the owner wants matte or gloss tires and use Pinnacle or VRT and *wipe the excess* so it doesn't fling all over when the owner drives. If the exhaust is polished, then I have metal polish for it and I can use a combination of 3 inch pads and hand polishing with a towel. I like Borla polish.
In a perfect world we'd do a photoshoot at a location chosen by the owner next because the car is never going to be this clean again. At a minimum I want to see it in the daylight because if I have somehow missed a spot I want to address it. Don't forget plastic "blades" to get the microfiber into the creases and crevices.
This much work can make it hard to see colors properly afterwards. I've driven home many times thinking "I can barely see." Something happens when you stare at a color for hours on end and when you look away the whole world looks green.
I say that to say this: Getting a car coated is so much more than just getting it coated.
Last edited by _Nick_; Apr 27, 2025 at 08:30 PM.









