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Anything else keeping me from reverse gear???

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Old Sep 5, 2025 | 11:05 PM
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Default Anything else keeping me from reverse gear???

When I purchased my car (1998), I would have to hold in reverse to keep it from popping out. Did a bunch of mods to the car and while I was at it, I replaced the reverse gear, synchro, and bronze shift fork pads. The transmission that's in it is an RPM transmission. I also replaced the reverse lockout solenoid. I have the bronze isolator cup for the shifter. I have a Tick master cylinder and goes into every gear EXCEPT for reverse. Anything I'm missing??? Thanks!!! I'm sooooo super aggravated.
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Old Sep 6, 2025 | 11:47 AM
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Many has this problem theres a thread out there that fixes this. Well for me it did. On the reverse shaft where the c clip you have to ground down and shime. This is just a quick run down but google to get detailed instruction. After i did this reverse goes in like butter and never popped out.

Last edited by Vetteman Jack; Sep 7, 2025 at 09:40 AM.
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Old Sep 7, 2025 | 12:39 AM
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Have a link to said thread by chance??? Thanks!

P.S. It's a pain to get in. If I move it about a foot forward in 1st and then reverse about 3-4 times, it MIGHT go if I'm lucky.
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Old Sep 7, 2025 | 09:41 AM
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Moved to C5 Tech.
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Old Sep 8, 2025 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Me2Slow
Have a link to said thread by chance??? Thanks!
There's a bunch of good info on the internet, a google search for something like "T56 reverse fix" should net you useful results.

I documented some of my own T56 reverse fix here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1601856462
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Old Sep 8, 2025 | 04:00 PM
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When was the last time your clutch hydraulic fluid was bled/flushed?

I was having similar issues with getting into reverse and also popping out of first or 2nd gear.

Put on Katech remote bleeder after trying the ranger clutch bleeder technique without success for several tries over the years.

A lot of junk came out black fluid, shifting issues fixed, by the way car was factory clutch and transmission and was 20 years old at the time of adding remote bleeder.

About a month later clutch got stuck on floor, Reservoir was empty, refilled and no more issues, but I suspect it will need a new slave cylinder.
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Old Sep 8, 2025 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 1999corvettels1
When was the last time your clutch hydraulic fluid was bled/flushed?

I was having similar issues with getting into reverse and also popping out of first or 2nd gear.

Put on Katech remote bleeder after trying the ranger clutch bleeder technique without success for several tries over the years.

A lot of junk came out black fluid, shifting issues fixed, by the way car was factory clutch and transmission and was 20 years old at the time of adding remote bleeder.

About a month later clutch got stuck on floor, Reservoir was empty, refilled and no more issues, but I suspect it will need a new slave cylinder.
Brand new Tick master cylinder and bleeder. I'll try bleeding it again though, just to be sure. I'll report back.
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Old Sep 19, 2025 | 04:45 PM
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Okay, so update. I bled the system. No air. Still no reverse. I even took the plunger out of the old reverse lockout solenoid, thinking maybe it was an electrical issue of some kind not allowing the solenoid to work, and put the old solenoid back in with no plunger at all. STILL no reverse. Doesn't even act like it wants to go in reverse.

I can only assume at this point that it's either something in the transmission (even though I just had it torn apart and put in a brand new reverse gear and synchro in it with bronze fork pads), or something dealing with the linkage, not allowing it to move over. It doesn't even want to act like there's a notch to even go into 🤬🤬🤬
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Old Sep 19, 2025 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Me2Slow
Okay, so update. I bled the system. No air. Still no reverse. I even took the plunger out of the old reverse lockout solenoid, thinking maybe it was an electrical issue of some kind not allowing the solenoid to work, and put the old solenoid back in with no plunger at all. STILL no reverse. Doesn't even act like it wants to go in reverse.

I can only assume at this point that it's either something in the transmission (even though I just had it torn apart and put in a brand new reverse gear and synchro in it with bronze fork pads), or something dealing with the linkage, not allowing it to move over. It doesn't even want to act like there's a notch to even go into 🤬🤬🤬
Sorry i missed your post but like what was said you have to do that mod. Your wasting your time. This is so typical, Its wired where its a hit or miss with this problem. Another buddy bought a used trans from ebay the first thing i told him we are going to do is that mod. He said how do you know i need it. I told him you have to live with it if you get a bad one. So first thing he did, still on the stands was to put in reverse will engine running and his smile said it all. If for any reason i or a friend has to buy a used trans that the first thing ill do.
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Old Sep 19, 2025 | 11:27 PM
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If you are talking about the reverse lockout solenoid bypass or delete, that didn't work for me. I have no plunger in the solenoid so there's nothing to keep it locked out. I'm not sure why it's not going into reverse at this point in time.
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Old Sep 20, 2025 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Me2Slow
If you are talking about the reverse lockout solenoid bypass or delete, that didn't work for me. I have no plunger in the solenoid so there's nothing to keep it locked out. I'm not sure why it's not going into reverse at this point in time.
No you have to go into the rear of the trams and take out the reverse fork and modify. I have a trans out. Ill take pictures and show you what to do. You have to take out trans for this.
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Old Sep 20, 2025 | 11:50 AM
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 This side comes off
This side comes off

inside when off
inside when off
 This does nothing for your problem
This does nothing for your problem
same
same
This is the shaft that engages reverse gear pushes fork into reverse gear
This is the shaft that engages reverse gear pushes fork into reverse gear
 This is where you add shim to move fork closer to gear. Your shifting the fork closer so travel is shorter and can make more force to completly engage syncor so it doesnt pop out
This is where you add shim to move fork closer to gear. Your shifting the fork closer so travel is shorter and can make more force to completly engage syncor so it doesnt pop out

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Old Sep 20, 2025 | 11:54 AM
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Im in the middle of rebuilding this trans for friend. Ask if you don't understand. This is what worked for the trans i did. Its the most common problem but your syncor might affect your problem if there damage. But start there because you have to tear down then you can inspect sycor teeth. Hope this helps
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